20 Most Recent GE Profile Spacemaker XL 1800 36 in. Microwave Oven Questions & Answers


If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the house fuse or breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

Here's a YouTube video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

GE Profile... | Answered on Aug 03, 2018


power supply bad for the leds

GE Profile... | Answered on Apr 11, 2014


probably fryed the magnetron, with something like foil or metallic, try unplugging it for 12 hours maybe it will reset if not throw it out

GE Profile... | Answered on Feb 20, 2014


OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg

mwswitchtest2.jpgIf the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.
Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode.Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.
use the VOM. God bless you

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GE Profile... | Answered on Apr 04, 2013


I haven't heard of such a thing. You must have cooked it until there was no moisture left in the potato. That would also account for the failure of the oven. It would be the same as no load in the oven.
A thermal protect part is your current problem.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


The front control panel should come off after removing a few screws then look for a large capacitor behind it
.DO NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS! This capacitor is a common cause of the symptoms you describe and costs almost nothing.Changing it may be the fix.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Mar 11, 2019


first suspect is the inverter board (power) and magnatron a distant second----in either case the part involved unless an expensive unit is pricey.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Jun 02, 2018


SOUNDS LIKE FLAME SENSOR SWITCH OPENED OR CLOSED AND THE UNIT THINKS IT OVERHEATED AND TURNED THE FAN ON TO COOL IT MUST FIND SHORTED FAN SWITCH

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Apr 19, 2018


I had this mute problem and found that unpluging it for 1 to 2 min. and the problem cleared.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on May 03, 2017


May be an issue with the magnetron tube.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Mar 29, 2017


Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.

In some cases, you then have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.


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GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Sep 28, 2016


It normally is not possible to check the diode of a Microwave oven without some special high voltage testing equipment. If you suspect it, replacing it would be much cheaper. A typical DVM will not do the job. But diodes usually are not the first part to fail; check the transformer.

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Sep 11, 2016


Since I don't know the model, here's a general answer. On a GE over the range oven, the top air deflector assembly is usually removable. After its off, you will have access to the fasteners at the top of the control panel. Remove it, and you should be able to see the door switch/latch assembly on the left.

Do all of this with the oven unplugged. Do not go near the high voltage capacitor as it can retain a charge of 4000 volts indefinitely. Stay away from the rest of the h v wiring as well.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

GE SpaceMaker... | Answered on Jun 28, 2016

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