20 Most Recent Whirlpool 24 in. GU1500XT - Multiple Color Built-in Dishwasher - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I had this problem. Fixed it but not sure what i did. I suspect it was either a temporay short, moist connection, or sensitive door latch. I shut off the circuit breaker and let stand for about a week. Perhaps it is drying. Turn back on, and the lights maybe blinking again, but press cancel button. The 2 minute drain will go on, let it drain and wait. The lights may still be blinking but wait 5-10 minutes and it may reset like mine did. You may have try this process a few times, like i did. I was playing with the door a bit too, firmly open and close. Hope this helps.

There is a sequence to reset. Firstly open the door then press heated dry normal heated dry normal within three seconds of each other

If you can fix my dishwasher I might be able to fix yours

I had the same problem with a Whirlpool ADP 6515, led flashes 6 times, pause and repeat. Open the door, remove the 2 screws that hold the control panel (1 top left, 1 top right). Gently lift the control panel up and away from the door to reveal the wiring, controllers etc. My controller was a Flextronics UCB-IC-EBL-P7-M3-HE1. Look at the connectors, one of them is marked on the controller as NTC and has 2 blue wires, push down on the white plastic tab below it and disconnect it (pull it horizontally away from the controller)..I used a multimeter on 200k range and measured the resistance by probing those 2 blue wires and the NTC temperature sensor measured about 50k ohms +/- 5k depending on the room temperature. And that is correct for that NTC. (I knew the NTC was good as I had removed it from underneath the machine previously and measured the resistance whilst holding it under the hot tap as it went from cold water to hot. It's a Negative Temperature Coefficient sensor so the resistance reduces as it gets hotter).So problem was definitely not that. Solution was simple, on the connector itself, just use a very small flat bladed watchmakers type screwdriver to clean the pin contact faces and then gently pinch the pins of each wire closer together so that they bites tighter onto the controller.when you reconnect it.Refit the control panel and problem solved.Conclusion; the contact resistance of the connector to the controller added to the total resistance of the NTC and made the dishwasher think that the water was below the safe activation of the motor cycle, e.g. it thought the water was iced up.Job done !

Some dishwashers have soft food disposals. If something gets in this disposal that will not dissolve such as bone, pop corn kernels, broken glass. This will make noise throughout the cycle. Sometimes after many cycles it will grind itself away. Otherwise service would be needed if you don’t know how to get inside the pump.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/501081/Whirlpool+Dishwasher+Blinking+Sani+Rinse

Your model number is located on the inside of the frame of the door.

Is your dishwasher hard wired into the house power system ... or plugged into a wall outlet under the kitchen sink? You mentioned you turned off the power ... how? via the circuit breaker or disconnecting it from the wall? If your unit is plugged into an outlet (and you depowered by cutting the breaker) ... I would check the cord and outlet .. it might be as simple as that. If that is not the problem ... trying a reset. Below is a generic one for Whirpools which may work on your model To reset it, you will have to have the door open. It can not be latched. Press "Heated Dry," "Normal," "Heated Dry," "Normal" within three seconds of the first pressed button. Now close the door, this should reset your dishwasher. Good luck on your troubleshooting!

This repair works for an older Whirlpool dishwasher, but I think several other brand-names use the same design as this brand/model and the fix could apply to them too. I had a large leak coming out the front of my Whirlpool Quiet Partner II dishwasher this week. Some of the fix-it websites online said the likely cause was a crack or split seam in the lower spray arm; but upon inspecting it I found no problem there. Further, I discovered a seemingly inexplicable discrepancy when I ran the dishwasher with the spray arm off: it didn't leak at all then; but when I put the spray arm back on it leaked bad just like before. What I discovered upon looking more closely with the spray arm off was this: there were severeal stainless-steel screws that hold the round top onto the pump/impeller housing, creating a gap between the two. I tightened the screws back down and ran the thing with spray arm back on, and presto! No leak. I concluded with the spray arm on, there's enough back pressure that water was shooting out through the gap at the front of the housing, aiming directly at the hinge gap inside at the bottom of the door. But the reason it didn't leak with the spray arm off is because all the water was able to shoot up freely with no back pressure forcing water out the aforementioned gap.You need a T-15 Torx bit to tighten the screws down; I'd advise doing that by hand instead of with a power screw-driver: a power tool will have enough torque that you can crack the plastic around the screw hole--which in fact I did, though not enough of a crack to create a problem.I'll post photos and a video showing all this. Hope this solves your problem like it did mine. Jonathan Athens, Ga.PS After I fixed the leak I got curious and took all 8 screws off and removed the round top piece, and found there's a black rubber seal/gasket that helps prevent water leaks, and a small piece of glass from some broken glassware earlier had wedged itself up under the rubber gasket. Probably not enough to prevent it from sealing sufficiently; but it might be a good idea while you're there to check that the gasket is in place and not compromised by foreign matter. And while you're at it, inspect the drain inlet fins below: I found a large piece of a broken wine glass, two metal screws, and chunks of paper residue from labels that had gotten washed off. Had to use tweezers to pull all that junk out. It would be potentially disastrous if some of that stuff had gone deeper and wrecked the pump . . .

Whats the model number?

http://www.fixya.com/support/t26351847-whirlpool_adp_4300_pumps_out_stays_in

Number one issue for not cleaning is not enough water. May need a new water valve

Control board issue most likely

Cheek the cut out switch in the door,all the best.

To me it sounds like low water pressure. Have a look at the filters in your hose connections. If OK, disconnect the hose at the inlet to your machine and check if water flows freely.

Check drain pump and hose for obstructions

Searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. You will need your complete model #.