Top 20 Whirlpool LSQ9610L Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(It could be something stuck in the drain motor blades)

Although you say that it drained I would gently suggest as a first step that you check the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
Try again with a load and, if these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.

If this has assisted you please score accordingly.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

HOW TO REPLACE TUB VIDEO If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

After you remove the cap on top there will be a 7/16 nut. Remove that nut. The whole thing should slide up and off. If you put the agitator on the ground and stand on two sides of the base and give a quick ****, It will seperate. Slide the sleeve away from the dogs and replace them. The top snaps back together, slde back on spindle and replace the 7/16 bolt. Replace cap.

Check your lid switch. The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman. I hope this information is helpful.

Check for proper grounding of the machine!

Dont use a ground elminator for power.

If you need to put a proper grounded outlet in ....call an electrician! He/she can check the connection to verify that is correctly wired and grounded.

sounds like the timer may be heating up!

There is a leakage of current in the machine. Do the following Check the wiring. See there are no cuts or the wire is exposed due to wear and tear of rubber/plastic/cloth insulation. Ensure the exposed ends are not touching the body of the machine. Insulate all the open wiring ends. Check that the earthing wire is OK.

yes

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The average price is about $25 - $35. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The part number for the lid strike (if required) is 358684. The average price for the lid switch is about $25 - $35. The lid strike usually runs about $5 - $10. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.

If the washer will spin then I would check to make sure you dont have a obsuction in the water pump. If the washer wont spin then check ur lid switch.

Hi Omni,
The Agitator "dogs"/cams have given up the ghost and need to be replaced. Access to them is easy. Before starting the repair, have this part in hand.

Here's a tool list;
1.) small flat screwdriver (to remove the top part of the agitator)
2.) 3/8" ratchet
3.) 8" X 3/8" extension (for the ratchet)
4.) 7/16" socket

Take a gander at this pic... you'll be going after #10 'cause that's the problem.


All you gotta do is remove the top parts from the agitator to access it. See #2 in the diagram? That's the bolt holding the agitator to the transmission shaft. Remove that, then lift the whole agitator out of the tub. Now place the agitator on the floor and put both of your feet on the base. Now lift the agitator (#3) off the base (#4). Place one of your hands into the opening of the top of the agitator (to hold the cam (#9) in place) then turn the agitator over. The cam will slide right out.

Now you'll see the cam "dogs"... little white curved plastic doo-hickeys. All you gotta do now is install the new cam assy. and rebuild the agitator! Cool, huh? All it takes is about $15 bucks in parts and ~20 minutes.

Let me know if you have further questions. And don't forget to rate my solution as "FixYa"! Thanks, BB

SG

I,m not sure! After moving the tub around and trying different dialed positions the washing machine start working again, maybe a "timed" reset elapsed or maybe the transmission cool down enough to restart. Thank's everybody, a quick note the machine is a Maytag Prestige PV3240aww.

do you notice if it agitates?
if it doesnt agitate it is just a simple coupling
if it is making a humm noise its the motor
if a LOUD rumble ONLY on spin cycle, its the basket drive assembly and the clutch.

Have you checked the lid switch? A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know. NOTE: I don't know of any "safety switch" on the washer. You can, however, by-pass the lid switch to get it to work temporarily. It is by-passed by jumpering the plug in the console - not splicing any wires. I would not recommend by-passing any safety features, though. You may cause damage to the machine and/or anyone that attempts to use it.

hey no problem here easy fix.. fist off noever mind the little brass pin that fell out, that is merely a shipping pin {3 are in unit) after install they remain under machine in little white/opaque plastic cups, you can discard. now as far as transmission, you cant seem to fit it back into the housing far enought to tighten the 3 1/2 in bolt in place, is this correct??? if that s the case you need to drop the transmission back down slightly and with your hand grab hold of the white teardrop plastic gear that is housed in the brake/drive assembly adn by twisting hte plastic youll release the outer springl;oaded brake shoes(just like a brake drum on a car, and while releasing the brake you can push the entire assembly up into the machine the 1in or so htat you are shy , it might want to fall back down but when oyou see how it works youll get it the n the transmission will easily resecure to the mounting posts.

Hello , this is the first sign of your clutch going out , it is not engaging on the last spin cycle soon it will almost never spin. the clutch is tough to get to and is not much money. you would have to be willing to pull the gear case to replace the clutch. a repair company would charge around 150.00-200.00 dollars total. Here is a different look at your problem follow the link I added , it is part # 5 as a kit.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fW0307038-00004.png

Please ask any questions you may have.
Phil

This will show you exactly how to do the repair, step by step. Dave

HI thanks for your question. the part that failed is called the motor coupling. it s located on the motor and the transmission. if you need help to replace come on back. but that's the part you need to change. thanks