20 Most Recent Hoshizaki Commercial Freezer SafeTemp® FH2-AAC Questions & Answers

REC means recovery. It is trying to make temp and is not. Could be frozen up evap, no fan running, door not closing, issues with the refrigeration system.

Check your defrosting elements or replace it.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

any beeping? beeping says what problem it is having. Reset it while energyzed by pushing the button way back of the control board in the control panel section. The switch needs to be set to run and valve to normal position, full ice bin sensor may be stuck to full position, exercise the sensor flap. Post what you tried to remedy the situation for better help ideas. Trouble shooting instruction are included on the machine cover doors.

If you want the ice maker work. you will to pay for the repair, If you want you cam another company.. Or you can do nothing which is nothing

http://plus.hoshizakiamerica.com/techtips/pdf/im/IM-500SAA_TRAINING_MANUAL.pdf https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?723481-Hoshizaki-KM501MAH-Phantom-Off

How to repair

https://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/HOS-AM-100BAE_sm.pdf since your info is so limited, try this web site for the manual for your machine as see if there is anything that may be of some help to you.

http://www.hoshizaki.com/docs/manuals/IM-130_132_210_212_serv.pdf this web site from Hoshizaki does not show or indicate any wire for heating. See sequence on page 10. You may want to read thru this as this may help you understand how it works and what you may need to address. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

this is a large misconception of this unit. After a defrost cycle is completed, the display stays in "DEF" or "REC" until the box temp reaches 14 degrees of the "set" temp. So, if you have it set on zero, the conditioned space has to get to 14 degrees and then the display will switch over and show the temp. One way to verify this, is if the display shows DEF, check to see if the compressor is running, if so, then this scenario applies.

It appears that you have supplied the ice bin model number and not the ice maker numbers. Please double check your unit and see if you can locate those numbers.

When first turned on, the sump should fill with water. If it does, water solenoid is good. If you have a full sump, and no water pump running, sometimes the "Ice/Off/Wash" switch is bad. Put switch in wash, if pump runs, it's good. Now put in Ice position, if sump fills and pump does not come on and compressor indicates it is in the freeze cycle, replace that switch first. Simplest place to start and lest costly to fix.

If compressor is running, check the float switch. It may be stuck.

There is a "Dump Valve" that is stuck or has trash in it. Follow the small tube from the pump to the white plastic valve that looks kinda triangular with 3 screws. Remove the screw carefully as this is spring loaded. There should be a black rubber piece that is a seal. Pay attention to how it assembles. The spring presses the seal against an opening. Look for something that may be allowing this not to seat.

The machine, all in one, not indoor/outdoor split type, will make beeping sound when something is wrong and stops working until it is turned off and turned back on. Some times the machine needs to be reset with the power on, covers removed, reset button inside on electronic mother board.
The ice machine covers have instructions and information on beeping sounds.

with no model number, I can only answer this way: most all Hoshizaki machines use at bin thermostat to send power to the control board. If the thermostat is bad, nothing works. As long as you have the right power and no blown fuses, look at the bin thermostat.

http://www.hoshizaki.com/docs/manuals/KMD-410M_H_serv_LTR.pdf Try this site for a manual. The ice thickness is controlled by the float switch. Most all Hoshi machines have adjustable floats. It starts the harvest as the water level drops.

I have found that if the pump runs in the wash cycle but not in the ice making postion, the switch is bad. strange but I have had this happen multiple times.