I would suggest charging about 2 oz below label then charge by pressures if it is a TXV. Cap tube is critical charge so i would as the manufacturer of Hot Shot. Not recommended to use hot shot on cap tube systems. My opinion only.
The evaporator that does the cooling and collects the ice is located in an insulated box on top. When the ice melts it goes out that drain line up top into the pan where it is evaporated. Hope this helps and good luck.
Several possibilities. The fan won't come on until the coil inside the box on top of the freezer gets down to about 0 degrees. It also will not come on if the door is open. It sometimes takes 10 to 15 minutes to come on. If you are low on refrigerant (freon) the coil will not get cold enough to come on at all. Feel the coil on the outside of the freezer on top and see if it is very warm to the touch. If not you are probably low on refrigerant. If you have the electronic control system, it may not be sending the signal to the fans after a defrost cycle. If possible, put gauges on the valves to check your freon charge. If this unit has not been operational in a while, you might try flipping the top cover off the coils and turn the fans by hand a couple of revolutions. I have had them to seize up from not being used. The fans should turn freely.
High suction pressure is telling you there is a blockage in the coolant system usually. It most often occurs at the drier. If the drier is clogged it will cause the symptom you describe. This may sound crazy but take two wooden handles (hammers whatever) but WOOD and strike the drier simultaniously. (I.e at the same tame with the handles. Don't be afraid to give it a good whack.. just don't dent it or the lines. It may or may not snap out of it. Additionally the capillary tube can cause the exact same symptom. You have coolant flow.. just not enough.
You may sadly have to have to system bleed off (recaptured coolant) and purged until restriction vanishes with nitrogen if you can not find the current restriction. These can be real easy or a nightmare there is no in between.
http://www.delfield.com/docs/uploaded/del/manuals/archive/dm6000.pdf
go to this site. It is your manual for your unit and it has a diagram in it. check it out. The power switch just breaks the power side of the incoming power. The transformer is a/c so it is not polarity sensitive. Usually the transformer will have a black and white wires on one side to indicate the high voltage side.. I have a ladder diagram scanned from the original manual but it is no different that the web site.
Hope this helps.
You have to give more info. What refrigerant, where is the unit located so ambient temps can be considered, is there a cap tube or txv. http://www.delfield.com/docs/uploaded/del/manuals/DM6000XL.pdf
Try this web site from Delfield. It should be you manual. It says your unit has 404-A. Check it out and let me know if you need more info.
If the compressor on your Delfield 6125S freezer is not staying running, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things you can check:
Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to the correct temperature and that it is functioning properly. A faulty thermostat can prevent the compressor from turning on.
Check the compressor relay: The compressor relay is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may not stay running. You can check the relay by using a multimeter to test for continuity across the relay's terminals.
Check the compressor motor: The compressor motor could be faulty and not able to start or stay running. You can check the motor by using a multimeter to test the winding resistance.
Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils could be dirty or clogged with dust, which can cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. Clean the condenser coils with a brush or compressed air to remove any dust or debris.
Check the compressor's oil level: If the oil level is low, the compressor could be damaged.
Check the overload protector: The overload protector is a safety device that is designed to protect the compressor from damage caused by excessive current. If the overload protector has tripped, the compressor will not start or stay running.
It's worth noting that a compressor not staying running could also be caused by a more complex issue, such as a problem with the compressor's electronic control module. If none of these steps resolve the issue, I would recommend contacting a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose and repair the issue with your freezer and give you an estimate of the cost of repair.
This says you have a failed sensor S3. I have searched all available sources and can not find any S3 sensor on any wiring diagram. Suggest calling Delfield as I believe the control needs to be programmed to ignor this as there is probably not sensor on the the unit for S3. Sorry I can't be of further help.
moved you out of comptuers
how cute using slang for the makers name, wow.
DEFfield ,
Id say the defrost , devices in the appliance is dead.
it needs service. (many times there is timer bad inside)
did you read your users guide yet, see the pages marked
defrost
if it has no automatic defrost feature that mean you do that.
just like grandma did in 1950s.
1: unplug unit.
2: put pan of hot water in side
3: close door.
4: open door 1hr later and hope you can pry off ice, use a plastic scraper never metal.
I remember doing this in 1960, a boys chore.
If you recovered all the refrigerant how can you have a psi reading? Should be zero, yes? If unit is a refrigerator, proper freon levels are very critical for operation - no leeway as in auto AC's. Need to use accurate scale after using a vacuum pump to purge system and put in exact amount. Too much or too little is no good - have to be spot on.
with such limited information, I can only answer generic. Most of the time it is because the evaporator fan(s) are not running or the evaporator is frozen over. With further info such as model, serial, or more details on behaviors, I could probably helps some further.
Not sure why you would want a -19 degrees when ice cream usually is about -10.
I have had some issue with their freezers not holding temp. Would have a temperature rise and cause the compressor to come on in as little as 4 minutes. Never found the cause. I would cause the compressor to come on and over heat and go out on overload. Sorry but I can not give an exacting answer. This is not normal for most freezers.