Top 20 Victory Commercial Freezer VSF-3 Questions & Answers

The condenser on top may be clogged. Or it may be sticking in a defrost cycle. I would be calling a different serviceman.

In most cases, an evap that freezes up is either an air flow problem or no defrost cycle. Older Hobarts have mechanical defrost time clocks. It could be locked up i.e., not running so no defrost cycle.
It could be coming out of defrost too early because the sensor that monitors the evap temp is not working properly.
The door could not be closing. If left cracked open, it will freeze up every time as unit never hits temp., keeps unit running. Warm air is seeping in and the moisture freezes on evap.
Lastly, the defrost heater(s) may not be working. Burned out, shorted, broken wire, etc.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.

Look on the electrical data plate. It should give you the info you need to know. I went to "victory-refrig.com". It looks as if you have a 3 door unit. The condensing unit is rated at 208-230 volts and is single phase. If your data plate confirms this, you need to use a plug that will accomodate 4 wires (4 prongs). Ground, neutral, and 2 power wires. It also shows that the unit is rated for 12.9 amps so a 20 amp plug is o,k. to use as long as you have the correct voltage. Do not attempt to use 115-120 volts on this as it is not designed for it and will most likely damage the unit. The web site has manuals, diagrams, and such. It looks user frendly, just got to look for what you want.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck

If the machine is running all the time a few things could be happening, The defrost timer could be bad, but if that is the case then you should see a build up of ice forming on the wall that covers the evaporator coils. Another situation is that your machine is low on freon and not reaching a temperature cold enough for the temperature control to shut the machine off. Third and last the temperature control itself could be bad and thinks the machine isn't cold enough. in that situation you would notice ice build up as well. Hopefully this helps. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Probably your defrost heater this is not coming on. or could be the board that runs the heater.

If what you say is accurate, I would look at either a weak compressor or and issue with the expansion device. (Cap tube, TXV)
What are your pressures and what freon are you using? Does the door(s) seal tight?

make sure you have the proper freon charge.

First off its the repair mans problem not an electrican, he probably knows its a hard job and does not want to do it, probably be alot of work to replace it, check with Victory an see it a replacement part is available an ask how hard to replace.

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..

Is it on Economy Mode? That only chills the bottom area. Check the condenser fins are cleaned of dust. That needs doing every 6 months. Or it needs refrigerant gas. ..

There is normally a drain plug on the lower rear or sides. You probably have leaking door gasket. https://www.google.com/search?q=norfrost+aura+chest+freezer+drain+hole+location ..

There appears to have been a serious electrical problem in the freezer, possibly involving a short circuit or a broken part.it's best to contact a professional appliance repair technician

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Star Computers. Greetings from Toronto! It is made by Midea and sold to Walmart as a batch, "make us 10,000 at $100 each. We will sell for $280 until they are gone". All the retailers are out of stock including Amazon and Wilson's Home Store. Choose another make and model, bottom of this page. Home Depot, Leon's or The Brick are a good bet for Freezers. https://www.dontwasteyourmoney.com/products/arctic-king-arc070s0arbb-7-cubic-feet-chest-deep-freezer/

If your Traulsen 31300 freezer is cooling down to 28°F but not going below that temperature, and the compressor runs continuously except during the defrost cycle, there are a few tests you can perform to help diagnose the issue before considering replacing the expansion valve. Here are some steps to follow: 1. Check Airflow: Ensure that the airflow inside the freezer is not obstructed by any items or ice buildup. Verify that the evaporator coil is clean and not blocked. Poor airflow can lead to inadequate cooling. 2. Temperature Control Setting: Confirm that the temperature control setting on the freezer is correctly set to the desired temperature. Make sure it is not accidentally set too high or too low. 3. Condenser Coil Cleaning: Clean the condenser coils located either at the back or underneath the unit. Dust and debris accumulation on the coils can reduce cooling efficiency. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or debris. 4. Condenser Fan Operation: Check if the condenser fan is running properly. The condenser fan helps dissipate heat from the system. Ensure it is spinning freely and not obstructed. If it's not working, it may need to be replaced. 5. Check for Refrigerant Leaks: Perform a thorough inspection of the refrigerant lines and connections for any signs of leaks, such as oil spots, bubbles, or hissing sounds. If a refrigerant leak is suspected, it could be affecting the cooling performance, and repairing the leak and recharging the system may be necessary. 6. Pressure and Temperature Readings: To determine if the expansion valve is the culprit, you may need to take pressure and temperature readings at different points in the refrigeration system using specialized equipment. These readings can help identify any irregularities or inefficiencies in the system. 7. Consult with a Professional: If you're unsure about performing these tests or interpreting the results, it is recommended to seek assistance from a professional refrigeration technician. They will have the expertise and necessary tools to accurately diagnose the issue and provide appropriate solutions. By conducting these tests and inspections, you can gather more information to make an informed decision about replacing the expansion valve or pursuing other potential causes for the inadequate cooling.

Call the engineer back, it is not fixed. It is still leaking or there is another issue like the thermostat or the circulation fan.