Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have you lost any underwires in any bras? Would be my first check, as years ago I had a similar sound & it turned out to be part of a broken underwire from my bra, I manage with a bright torch & a pair of tweezers to locate the offending object by slowly turning the drum with my hand & the teasing the metal through one of the drum holes & retrieved it, I wasn't ever going to pluck my eyebrows with the tweezers again but hey, they're cheaper than washing machines!!

I hope this helps, let me know if I can help any further...

You cant put the impellor back..replace the pump

You need technician

there isn't any glue or anything that you use,what you see is most likely old detergent,it builds up on the rubber boot caused from using to much soap,then the washer starts to stink and the soap eats at the spider gear on the back of the tub or spin basket and you'll hear a loud noise when in high spin,you should only be using 2 tablespoons of soap that's it.but there's no glue,there's a spring ring that holds the outside of the bellows on and another in the inside,if your boot has the little drain tub on the bottom or top there's a little clamp that holds it on and that's it.good luck with your repair

Control board sends power to door lock and unlock door. Control Board is most likely the problem. Have you tried unplugging machine for 5 minutes and then plugging back in?

Some washers have a drain filter at the bottom behind a removeable panel that either drops down or pulls off, this is held on with either plastic clips, magnets or a spring/ hinge. The filter is usuall 3" wide and screws in and out, be aware that water will come out when filter is removed. If there is no filter you will have to take the back off the machine (screws), and look for a bulbous rubber section on the outflow pipe. This is normally fastened at each end with jubilee clips or similar,undo clips and remove to clean , refit in reverse. Hope this helps.

the water control is by a diaphragm that is controlled by a solenoid when the solenoid is activated , a small needle unblocks a hole and the diaphragm opens to allow flow when the water is shut off the needle blocks the hole and the incoming water closes the diaphragm off so stopping flow. sand will affect that operation so new valves ($20.00 approx ) will fix that problem or maybe just pulling the diaphragm section off and cleaning it out next the filters in the inlet hoses are under the rubber washers so pull the washer out and the filter will come out next if you have a mains supply problem, the answer is to fit a big blue filter ( 4" X 20" ) paper element filter to the house supply line that will filter out any dirt and rubbish down to 10 microns and if you go a carbon filter down to around 3 microns ( around hair thickness size)plus and taste as for the water in the tub problem , you may have to get a technician in as that would be the program not shutting of the inlet water while spinning or a pump not operating correctly ---blocked inlet or inlet filter

hi i will say you may need a new power switch but remove the old one and have a good look at it you may be able to fix it

No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Really no easy way to explain you have to remove the top panel remove screws and slide back and up remove control panel remove spring around grey boot at door remove screws for door lock remove bottom panel to access screws for panel try appliancevideo or you tube for a vidoe to help hop this helps remember i do this everyday don't get frustrated if you decided to try yourself throw pics if you get stuck maybe i can talk you thru it

u have to remove the front of door boot ie rubber seal from front of mechine 2 screws where the catch goes in holds the interlock 2 mechine remove wireing 3 wires or plug depends if three wires take note of wher the go replace interlock easy.

I don't think it's spinning all night. If it doesn't drain or the water level switch is telling it otherwise. So you said you cleaned the pump trap ? Right? So next, is it draining the water ? If no the pump is possibly broken. If yes possible clogged black ribbed sump. If all they works and no issues. Check the pressure switch. Let's continue after you tried those first.

Whether it can or not white vinegar should clean it pretty from a spray bottle

When you open the detergent drawer, there are three troughs in the drawer. The trough on the left is for pre-wash, the trough in the middle is for detergent, and the trough on the right is for softner. This is described on page 11 of the users manual. http://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0412429.pdf#navpanes=0&statusbar=1&toolbar=1&view=Fit&view=FitH Hope this is helpful!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA5WK7LB-MM

Usually not but if you get a thin blade screw driver, in the center of the baffle gently pry up the edge and wedge it under creating a gap to get the coins out. But be carefully because most of the times you can't get replacement baffles !!

turn your dailer to spin cycle

Check to see if it has a Drip Dry or permanent press setting. take it off this setting.

According to the service manual, if the washer won't drain or spin the drain may be clogged. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/27552/lhw0050pq4-whirlpool-parts-residential+washer-manual