Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What is the complete model number of the unit?

Question moved from Coffee Makers. Gold pins are normally gold flashed contacts that should be in a connection block or connectors on a circuit board. Here is every part in exploded diagrams. https://www.partselect.com/Models/LTG6234DQ1/ ..

sounds like a failure of the control unit, best to have it checked out by repairer

It is replaceable it just pull off.

I can not find your model number that you posted.
I can tell you that all whirpool thin twins up to last year were direct drive with no belt except for the dryer section. Whirlpool stackers from the early eighties did have a washer belt if yours is this old replace the entire machine.

• We are sorry to hear of the problem with your Whirlpool washer. We would recommend having a local certified technician in your area properly diagnose and repair the issue you are experiencing. Please email us at [email protected] with your name, phone number, address and the model and serial number for your washer.

the face of dryer does not come off but you can remove the bottom face of the dryer by using a putty knife then slide it between the two pcs and pull at the same time this will allow it to pull away at the top of bottom panel then lift slightly as the two bottom clips just slide into place. this will allow you access to the thermo sensors if that is what you are referring to. when you say dryer switch

You didn't give to much detail about the noise, other then clunking. Does it sound like it's metal against metal? Does it sound hollow? When does the noise take place before, during or after the spin cycle.

The easiest thing to do is check to see if the motor is loose, or if you might have too much slop or slake in the belt, if you do then replace and readjust the belt.

Most likely the water level switch. If you have water running into tub after it is shut off could be the inlet water valve is not shutting the water completely off. Hope this helps

What are you calling the below washer don't know what you are talking about. thanks

Are you sure that's not thermostat not thermostart . There are lots of different ones you would need to know which one a part number on it.

you need to drain the washing machine by removing the little door below the drum door and pll out the the hose with a white knob (beware alot of water comes out so have a couple of pans ready. the fault means that there may be a blockage in the debris filter (next to the outlet hose yuo just pulled out) am sure you have prob already discovered the fix by now though!

A) I've never worker on the dual stacked setups. B) Standard topload is easy. Make sure you unplug it first, locating a replacement timer will be the hardest part. Most places around here are "wholesale" and only sell to techs. You used to could walk in with a maintenance uniform and buy the parts, for cash, then they started requiring company accounts. We still have at least one that sells retail parts. You may have to check the internet. You'll need the Manufacturer, Model, and , maybe the serial number. Then the access to the backside of the timer usually involves removing a back panel or lifting the entire top of the assembly. With a dual I'd figure it to be a back panel. C) Then you second hardest and most critical part is labeling your connections and making sure that you plug them into the exact same place on the new one that they now reside on the old one.

Could be a venting problem, the damp warm air needs to be vented from the machine for the clothes to dry, if it is not venting properly the clothes will not dry. Have a look to see if your vent pipe is blocked of kinked.

to remove the front panel on the washer you have to remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel then the panel will drop down out of the slip and groove hooks and you can remove panel

The pump that removes water could be blocked by debris. Oftentimes rugs and even towels can shed a significant amount of lint or loose fibers that cannot pass through the pump. I have also seen socks, underwear, change, buttons, and other things I wont mention clogging a pump. Depending on the make of your machine the pump is either driven by the main motor or by its own smaller electric motor. It must be accessed by removing the washer case. the pump is usually secured by screws or clamps and connected to drain hoses by hose clamps. There is also the possibility that the pump has experienced a mechanical failure and needs to be replaced.

This should be some wire has loosen connection, need technician to check out this issue.

You did not describe how the noise was. Normally, the noise comes from the drum rollers was clogged or frozen. The other source of noise comes from the belt bearing was bad. Taken off this dryer is hard-may need 2 people to get the job done.

have you looked near the bottom of the front panel near the floor,there are 2 or 3 screws located at a 45 degree upward angle(to hide them from view) so they dont show,remove these and the front should hinge upward like an auto hood and the clips near the top should let go when its raised far enough upward

Your washer most likely has a broken drive coupling. If broken the washer will fill with water and drain, but the motor spins without driving the transmission (no agitate or spin). The part is common to all whirlpool washers made in the last 20 years and is readily available at all major appliance part stores. It is possible to change this part yourself but much less hassle to get it changed by a pro See Part # 13 Search all parts in this sectionUSE WPL 285753 (Direct Drive Motor Coupling)Part Number: PS1485646

This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.CAD$12.81