Whirlpool 21.6 cu. ft. / 612 liter Chest Freezer EH220FXKQ - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I have the same problem. Could be 2 things. 1) The top lid may not be all the way down sealing. I had to out some weights on top to make it seal better. 2) The lid seal could be cracked, partial missing or just not sealing. Good luck trying to find a new seal. I'm still looking.

The insulation between the inside and the outside of the freezer haas become water logged, This can be twmporarilly remedied by switching off the freezer and letting the insulation dry out for a few weeks, less in hot dry climates, but the solution is temporary and the problem will reoccur. To have the foam replaced means a complete strip down of the freezer and is seldom worth the cost. I am sorry, but you will probably have to get used to living with the problem. Incidently, it does make inroads into your electricity bills.

Hi,
This condition is telling your that your freezer insulation is deteriorated or even leaks causing outside air contact to your freezer. By visual check the leaks, if you found, laminated it by using HVAC insulation like duct tape, PU foam etc. For best is to replace all insulation of your freezer.
Regards

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

yes.. condensation issue

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

I would be willing to bet that the cf stand for compressor failure.

The wattage use of the unit should be on a label plate or sticker. With the age of the unit though, it may not be legible anymore. A dryer does use a lot of electricity. Check the freezer to see if the compressor cycles off. If you keep the door shut, it should. If the compressor stays on continuously, that could use a lot of power.

its either at the top back of freezer or lower sides

Did the RCD tripping have anything to do with the freezer? You could have a faulty defrost heater, which means the freezer will not defrost at all.

Question edited for clarity. This might be close enough? Contact details on Page 1 and 2. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/191418/Whirlpool-Upright-Freezer.html https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+SVF15NRHW01+manual ..

If your Whirlpool upright freezer is working fine but an intermittent alarm is sounding that is different from the high temperature alarm, it could indicate an issue with the door or the door switch. The alarm is designed to alert you if the door has been left open for an extended period or if the door switch is malfunctioning. Check the door seal to ensure it is tight and the door is closing properly. You can also try cleaning the door switch to see if that resolves the issue. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a professional for further assistance.

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There shouldn't be any 'jingly tone' at the end of every compressor cycle. You could be hearing something else making a sound after the compressor stops.

The larger one

The door switch or door module is defective. or the door is not fully closed

http://www.fixya.com/tags/freezer_green_light_flashing/browse/whirlpool

The defrost water from the melted frost (ice) collects in the bottom of the freezer. If there is no plugged up drain, then you must remove the water manually with a sponge and bucket after a defrost cycle.

If it’s in floor if freezer, you have a clogged defrost drain. If it’s on inside back freezer wall, it’s a defrost problem

The solenoids that operate the ice maker and the water dispenser in the door may be getting water internally. I would put a pressure regulator on the line of the pressure exceeds 30 PSI.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Refrigerator-Repair-Help I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720