20 Most Recent Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

F2-E0 - Shorted Touch Pad (Keypad) - Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

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Whirlpool... • Answered on Sep 12, 2017

after cleaning the oven the bake temp would not go any higher than 350. when you press the temp button to go lower or higher it only go down. could you tell me what is wrong or what to do.

Whirlpool... • Answered on May 05, 2017

it usually just is held with a couple screws then lift it out and unplug it.

Whirlpool... • Answered on Jan 03, 2017

I think you mean if it locks automatically not "manual". There should be small print next to one of the buttons that includes the word "lock". Hold this button down until the indicator goes out.

Whirlpool... • Answered on Oct 30, 2015

Check the ribbon cable for connection

Whirlpool... • Answered on Aug 19, 2015

Sometimes we see an intermittent electrical connection due to oxidation of the contacts on the keypad membrane tail. This can be easily cleaned so you can check this before investing in a new keypad. I posted some pictures and the procedure on our website. Here's the link:


Whirlpool... • Answered on May 31, 2015

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 2. 3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good! 24204619-rlcwkvmjohmhoaex2htic0pp-3-0.jpg 24204619-rlcwkvmjohmhoaex2htic0pp-3-2.jpg 24204619-rlcwkvmjohmhoaex2htic0pp-3-5.jpg 24204619-rlcwkvmjohmhoaex2htic0pp-3-9.jpg

Whirlpool... • Answered on May 18, 2015


Whirlpool... • Answered on Apr 24, 2015

Equipment is Whirlpool double oven RBD305PDS14 built-in.  After a very stormy summer 2007, I thought a power surge may have zapped the control board.  Problem initially presented on display as error & fault "E6 F2"; simply pressing "Timer Off" would usually clear this error & fault code.

However, some months later, the display would often go completely blank followed by the beep sequence "short-long-short-short-short" (Morse code: dit dah dit dit dit).  No error & fault code would appear.  Pressing any keypad oven control did not work at all in this condition.  When power was cycled at the breaker panel, the usual "PF" with clock display did not appear.


After following the excellent information on "how to remove the control panel" posted in this forum, I first tested the "control panel thermal fuse" (refer to the tech sheet that should be behind the control panel once it is removed).  It showed a closed circuit.

I turned my attention to the "flexible" keypad connector cable (error & fault code "E6 F2" is a keypad or keypad connector problem; again, refer to tech sheet).  The control panel has a board mounted female connector with two tabs that may be gently pulled upward to release the flexible cable.

I cleaned the flexible cable contact area (it seats into the board mounted female connector) carefully with a Q tip and some isopropyl alcohol.  I reinserted the flexible cable and gently pressed down on the two tabs (noted above) on the board mounted female connector.  VERY GENTLY tug on the flexible cable to insure it is gripped by the connector.

After all of this monkey business, I re-mounted the control panel display panel on the oven and restored power.  So far, so good.  After applying power, the "PF" with clock display always appears.  I am able to set the clock and press "Start".  Over functions normally.  The clock displays as normal and I no longer observe the problem I described above.

BTW, I noted the incoming 240V has transient suppression (no surge protection, however).

on Dec 09, 2014 • Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single...


I used the self clean feature on mine and found out, to late, that it gets so hot that it burns out some of the electrical components. I suggest NEVER use the self clean feature

Whirlpool... • Answered on Oct 21, 2014

Whirlpool have the self clean latch assembly solenoid go bad and wont return back to unlock the switch to tell the control is is no longer in self clean. Replace the self clean latch assembly or make sure the switch on the assembly is in the non self clean mode, If the oven starts working then you know the problem if it still doesn't work then there may be other issues.

Whirlpool... • Answered on Mar 02, 2014


Whirlpool... • Answered on Dec 23, 2013

Pull up on the whole door from the hinges

Whirlpool... • Answered on Nov 01, 2013

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