Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi.

If the part that is not heating is only the bottom element, and the top element is heating regularly, then you may need to replace the lower element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.

If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.

Regards.

Make sure that the door latch is completly locked and then try again. If it is locked and you are getting this code the door latch assembly is bad. The oven sensor would be fine since you get no codes during normal baking. Problem is in door lock system

for model 9815xub, the oven light consists of a light bulb cover(clear plastic, sometimes called lens) the light bulb receptacle( pressure mounted against the back wall of the oven ) and the light bulb, standard appliance bulb that screws into the receptacle, the same as the lens, it also screws into the receptacle, twist counter clockwise to remove both the lens and the bulb. as a reference try the following site:
www.partselect.com/ and type your model number in the window, then click on the oven cavity breakdown to view thwe assembly.

Oven door hinges are not adjustable, assuming you have fitted the door back correctly, and it is still not closing properly, then the only solution is to replace the door hinges.

F3 E2 USUALY IS THE SENSOR IN THE OVEN IF YOUR LUCKY YOU CAN REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS INSIDE AND PULL THE WIRES THROUGH. MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG IT FIRST. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

your mostlikley correct on the buring wires. The only thing that can be done at this point is to unplug the machine and start tearing in to it to find the bad wires.

Guarantee is 1 year parts and labor

There is a temp limiter on the back of the oven that could cause that problem.

check the bake (lower) element, mine just went out. It was easy to spot the problem once I pulled the element out, the wire had burnt off the end. Please remember to turn the power off first.

Control board failure due to a power surge. Replacment boards are around $180 and come with a surge protector board.

The problem is probably caused by the oven thermostat that has gone out of range.
If it is out 40 degrees where ever you set it, then you can compensate by setting it 40 degrees lower, or alternatively, replace the thermostat.
Trust this helps you.

Open the oven door. Look at each hinge. There is a clip on the hinge that has to be opened for the door to come off the hinge.
The clip does not come off the hinge it only rotates backwards and forwards.

MY f10 sign keeps coming up on my kenmore stove

HI. This is a control fault, that may be corrected by simply shutting down the appropriate circuit breaker for 5 minutes. This will DE-energize the control board. Once the 5 minutes have passed, simply re-introduce power to the unit. If the unit continues to produce the error, this will confirm that the main control board has failed. it should be replaced asap.

If it is a fan assisted oven and the fan is still wiorking o/k, then you need to replace the oven element, located behind the rear panel in oven.
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you cannot it is sealed.

If it is a drop down door with rear hinges, then you need to replace both hinges.
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check power going to the tstat.

Probably the Thermal Overload Sensor burned out from the excessive heat during the cleaning cycle. It Is located on back side of oven.

HERE IS A PICTURE