20 Most Recent Bunn CWTF 42 12-Cup Coffee Maker - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Bunn is very good about replacing their products. I'm attaching two links, the first one describes the BUNN warranty. The second one allows you to lookup your specific product, please scroll to the bottom of this page and insert your serial number. Hope this helps. http://www.bunn.com/sites/default/files/wysiwyg/bunn_home_product_warranty.pdf Product Warranties

If it's round about the size of a 50 cent piece then it unscrews counter clockwise. You can still clean it with a tooth brush of espresso brush. Wipe clean when done. Aloha, ukeboy57

You can check bunn.com for current and discontinued models (Pictures). There is quite a few you tube vids available on how to operate a particular model once it's identified. * If it's not working then contact your vendor for service. Aloha, ukeboy57

You should call your vendor for service on any commercial brewer. (Especially if it's on loan from them) *** the following is for information only as all repairs should be performed by a qualified tech.*** The start switch activates the timer (analog or digital) board which turns on the water feed or brew valve depending on the model. * Check momentary brew switch. * Check the on/off switch * Check the timer. Digital timers tend to be sensitive to electrical storms. Analog timers have a dial and are more tolerant of electrical surges. * Check the water fill solenoid. Should be a definite click when activated. Water filling sound should be very clear. * No water flow then check the water supply line if it's on. * Final; call for service to be safe. Aloha, ukboy57

You should call your vendor for service on any commercial brewer. (Especially if it's on loan from them) *** the following is for information only as all repairs should be performed by a qualified tech.*** The start switch activates the timer (analog or digital) board which turns on the water feed or brew valve depending on the model. * It's not often the momentary brew switch goes bad even though it's pressed many times a day. * Check the on/off switch * Check the timer. Digital timers tend to be sensitive to electrical storms. Analog timers have a dial and are more tolerant of electrical surges. * Check the brew solenoid if stuck or not operational. * Check the water fill solenoid. Should be a definite click when activated. Water filling sound should be very clear. * No water flow then check the water supply line if it's on. * Final; this brewer needs service. High voltages present in larger brewers often with 240VAC to 440VAC. Aloha, ukboy57

Bunn spray heads are about the size of a 50 cent piece. They should unscrew counter-clockwise. Only these round ones unscrew. Call your vendor to have them checked and replaced as needed. They do get very dirty if not wiped down daily. They should be serviced every 6 months (minimal service) you can still wipe and clean them with a tooth brush or portafilter brush (espresso brush) while still on the brewer. Aloha, ukboy57

Bunn switches if the rocker style as the looks like will have two leaves on the side of the switch that will need to be squeezed in order to get it past the square hole. These can be really tight but if your sure it's at fault then just crush it to remove the pieces. The new on should snap in if the hole was not damaged. * Since your checking the brewer you should get the manual that may be available from Bunn.com (I haven't checked for this model but they usually post the manuals) * This seems to be a home version of a VPR commercial brewer (but nicer). So expect the same parts for the fuse, thermal fuse, thermal disk (or thermostat). * Note: If your not familiar with Bunn brewers then make sure you look at every piece of wire as some high limit fuses are inside plastic tubing or heater braiding. * Thermal disks look like a metal button with a ceramic cap or button attached to it. This can be a high limit (reset-able) or a thermostat. * It may have a standard thermostat with bulb but it may be a thermsistor probe with a PC board to control the brew heat. * Final; this is the 3d question on this particular brewer. All have similar problems with heating. It's the same with VPR's. If I set them up I know it works properly. It's when someone moves them to another office that's the problem as they dump out the water prior to the move then plug it in without refilling the tank. Thermal fuse blows. There is a link below showing how to set up this brewer. Aloha, ukeboy57 https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bunn+grx-b&&view=detail&mid=E6D1ADD550DA3DA5B120E6D1ADD550DA3DA5B120&&FORM=VDRVRV

This is really a home style VPR brewer (but looks nicer) if you listen to their video (link below) they mention it has a pre-heated tank of water already in the brewer. This means the brewer needs to be pre-filled with a full pot of water and pre-heated prior to using the brewer. Unplugging this unit won't be a problem UNLESS it was emptied of tank water and not refilled when powered up. * The unit will try and heat up the tank of water but if empty then just air which overheats the unit then blows the thermal fuse. Call for service. * The warmer is still working but it's not hot enough to brew frequently as the warmer may take up to an hour to get the tank hot enough to brew or it may not get hot at all if it's own thermal fuse blew too. * Final; call for service to be safe. Aloha, ukboy57 https://www.amazon.com/BUNN-Velocity-10-Cup-Coffee-Brewer/dp/B00EAQJCWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516431654&sr=8-1&keywords=bunn+nhs+velocity

VPR has a semi-sealed tank that keeps +1 pot of water heated and ready to brew. Pouring in a full pot of cold water will fill the top tray and allow a slow trickle of cold water into the top which forces hot water to over flow into the brew basket. This continues until all the cold water drains into the heater tank. So the brew is matched volume per volume. UNLESS the thank was empty or not filled prior to brewing. Follow the brewing instructions from Bunn (on line for *FREE* download at Bunn.com) * If it leaks (from the bottom) only when you pour in water. Then your pouring it too fast and over flowing the fill tray. slowdown, watch the level in the tray. do not fill past the lid. * If it leaks just sitting (not brewing) then there is a hole in the tank. Call for service. * If it leaks after filling the tray half way. then the top of the tank has a leak, loose, cracked, or missing gasket. There is quite a few gaskets on the lid. Call for service. * Final; Leaks are always bad around electrical equip. Best to unplug and call for service to be safe. Aloha, ukeboy57

There is a ready light (green but sometimes red) that will go on and off as the brewer heats up. It will periodically turn off when re-heating but should light when ready. This is normal. * Bunn have red rocker switches that are sometimes lit when in use. Some do flicker but still work. Call for service if not. * Rocker (RED) switches should have a definite click sound from the switch. these are usually the warmer plate or on/off switches. Some may flicker but you can check the warmer plate if it's working. Ask the vendor to change it the next time they come by as it still works but annoying. * The black rockers (unlit) should snap to all EXCEPT the brew switch which tends to be mushy with a spring back. The only way to know if it works is the plate gets warm. * Check the outlet if any other machine shows intermittent power. Some places overload the outlet and trip the breaker or GFRI so frequently most people unknowing think the power blacks out all night but really someone just reset the breaker. Have maintenance move the brewer on another outlet (and breaker) or have the breaker checked as it may be worn. * Call your vendor anyway as there may be an electrical short or loose wire inside the brewer. Many times I've found the warmer plate wires burnt or fell off the terminals. Aloha, ukeboy57

VPS are pour over brewers. Like the 12 cup brewers you find at home, they need to be filled with 12 cups of water (a full pot), heated and then peculated over the coffee grounds and collected in a decanter. BUT there is one main difference! The VPR and similar COMMERCIAL coffee machines are quick brewers. They usually have a pre-heated pot of water stored inside the machine. * VPR's and similar machines REQUIRE a pre-fill and heating period prior to brewing. This means it's sitting on a level table and filled with water until water sprays from the brew head. At this point the unit is plugged in and the heater is turned on. Brewer will pre-heat the water (there may be some water discharge from brew head as the water expands). Ready light will come on in about 15 mins. * To Brew; Place coffee grounds in filter, place in funnel and brew head, clean empty decanter under funnel, slowly pour one full decanter of water (cold or hot) into brew tray. Do not overflow tray. Allow water level to sink before adding more water. Only fill with one pot as an equal amount will come out the brew head and funnel. * You can test the VPR by following the Pre-fill instructions I've listed earlier. If the brewer heats up and does not continuously boil (shorted condition) then try a brew. If it works then your okay. Otherwise the unit will need service for a blown high limit or bad heater element. * Call your coffee vendor anyway. Many coffee vendors will service your brewer of even replace it as long as you buy coffee from them. Ask around. Aloha, ukeboy57

Don't know the model but here are things to check prior to calling your vendor for service: * Plugged in? No lights? Check if GFRI outlet is tripped out. * Is it turned on and ready light lit? Some (CWTF's etc.) have a green or read ready lamp that lights up when the brewer is hot and ready to brew. * No Ready light after 15-20 mins of being plugged in? Check the back of unit for a toggle switch (or rocker switch). Check if it's on. Some units may say "Vacation". It should be on normal or brew. * Brewing works but not hot. Was the ready light on when you started the brew? You have to wait till it's lit. Still not hot? Then call for service. The heater, High limit, Thermal fuse,Thermostat needs to be checked. * If this is a new unit then be sure to turn on the thermostat as it comes from the MFR in the off position. * Final, Call your vendor to be safe. Aloha, ukeboy57

VPS/VPR are pour over brewers. Like the 12 cup brewers you find at home, they need to be filled with 12 cups of water (a full pot), heated and then peculated over the coffee grounds and collected in a decanter. BUT there is one main difference! The VPR and similar COMMERCIAL coffee machines are quick brewers. They usually have a pre-heated pot of water stored inside the machine. * VPR's and similar machines REQUIRE a pre-fill and heating period prior to brewing. This means it's sitting on a level table and filled with water until water sprays from the brew head. At this point the unit is plugged in and the heater is turned on (there may be some water discharge from brew head as the water expands). Ready light will come on in about 15 mins. * To Brew; Place coffee grounds in filter, place in funnel and brew head, clean empty decanter under funnel, slowly pour one full decanter of water (cold or hot) into brew tray. Do not overflow tray. Allow water level to sink before adding more water. Only fill with one pot as an equal amount will come out the brew head and funnel. * Make sure the decanters are all the same size. do not mix a 12 cup pot with a 10 cup pot. One will over fill and the other will under fill. Make sure they match (in cup volume) FYI; Thermo Air pump pots are usually bigger than one pot. Typical filling only to 3/4th of the container. (I think most are in 2.5 to 3 liter sizes) * If your not getting a full pot then the brewer was partially empty. The second brew (if done within the next hour) should come out full. * If your still not getting a full pot then the water is leaking or is boiling off. Does it always steam from the top? Thermostat is shorted. Unplug the brewer and call vendor for service. * Final; If your unplugging when not in use. Then follow the Pre-heat instructions mentioned above prior to plugging the brewer back in. If the tank has been emptied at night or dried up after an idle week. Then there is a chance you may over heat and blow the thermal fuse. Or at best have a half pot short brew as the water dried up. * Note leaving the brewer plugged in without brewing daily is not a good idea. The water evaporates and eventually drys out the pot. Takes about 1-2 weeks but it does blow the fuse(s) and the unit will need service. * Final; Follow the Bunn set up and care instructions (manuals from Bunn.com for down loading. *FREE*) Aloha, ukeboy57

Okay, I'm NOT going to ask how you turn the burrs. * The starter capacitor is bad or disconnected. * you can download the Bunn manual which has the wiring diagram on the back pages. This should be a FREE download. AVOID using the word "manual" as it will re-direct you to scam sites that charge for free stuff. * I know following the wires is a bit tricky.. Especially on the G9-2 with everything doubled. Take your time or seek help from a tech or your vendor. * The capacitor is round and usually attached to the motor like a 'hump' on the side or near the top. If you didn't take it apart then one of the wires in the switching side may be miss wired or loose. Check both for loose and correct wired. Careful around the capacitor as it may still have a charge! Aloha, ukeboy57 P.S. The capacitor is used to kick start the motor with it's heavy burr plates. Oh, and if your still having problems with low power. Check the motor for burnt smell as you may have overheated and fried the motor. They usually have thermal resets, but if you kept forcing the reset to keep grinding then the motor is defiantly burnt out.

Okay no model given, * Pour over brewers only leak if over filled (more than a pot). If it leaks just sitting there then there is a hole in the tank. Call for service or replace. * Commercial machines like CW, CWTF, Single, Dual, Urns, are plumbed into a water line. Leaks may come from the water line, Tank, or urn. * If the water leak is clear and not hot then it's the water inlet line. * If it's hot then the heater is leaking, * If it's coffee colored then it's the urn where the coffee is being brewed. * In All cases call your vendor for service as this is a hazardous situation. Unplug or turn off the power to the unit. It should be on a large throw switch near any large brewer. Have maintenance turn off the breaker and leave of till the vendor can service. Aloha, ukeboy57

I'm guessing there is a funnel under the grounds discharge port and your not using a bowl to collect the grounds. (some places do this to measure their own amounts to adjust brews.) * There is a square thin metal "chaff plate" at the top of the discharge port. With a flash light look up into the chute. you should see a blackish/blue steel flapper (like a playing card in a bicycle spoke) Do NOT stick your finger up there! Yes, there may be exposed grinding plates that are sharp! * if it's not there or broken (it's steel and very brittle) then it needs to be replaced by a service tech. It's a bit tedious to replace and in a very cramped area. * Grinding generates a lot of static (even in Hawaii with 80% humidity) so expect some splatter or at least grounds clinging to the sides. It will settle after a while. Many places leave the funnel in place with coffee already ground in the funnel so they don't have to wait for the grinder. Aloha, ukeboy57

Don't know the model but here are things to check prior to calling your vendor for service: * Plugged in? No lights? Check if GFRI outlet is tripped out. * Is it turned on and ready light lit? Some (CWTF's etc.) have a green or read ready lamp that lights up when the brewer is hot and ready to brew. * No Ready light after 15-20 mins of being plugged in? Cheuck the back of unit for a toggle switch (or rocker switch). Check if it's on. Some units may say "Vacation". It should be on normal or brew. * Brewing works but not hot. Was the ready light on when you started the brew? You have to wait till it's lit. Still not hot? Then call for service. The heater, High limit, Thermal fuse,Thermostat needs to be checked. * If this is a new unit then be sure to turn on the thermostat as it comes from the MFR in the off position. * Final, Call your vendor to be safe. Aloha, ukeboy57

Sorry this brewer is usually set up for a full pot brew. I have reset this for a small (but not half) pot brew as the customer wanted to use a metal carafe (with their own logo). I also tried once to get it to half pot brew but it can get tricky if you actually brew twice to get a full pot (in the same pot). * there is a siphon action that starts once the boiler tank gets filled to a certain point. From that point it will continue to flow until the boiler is emptied to the level that stops the siphon action and leaves enough water in boiler to reheat for the next brew. Achieving the siphon point may be a larger volume of water for 1/2 a pot but may work for 3/4ths a pot. The 1/2 way mark may be affected by the brewers "level" while placed on a table or sagging in the middle of a weak table. * Usually if you want a smaller brew then go with a smaller brewer. Though there is a hot water tap that will give you 2-4 cups of hot water (it gets tepid after that) which you can use for the "Mug" style brew. But it does get messy.ukeboy57 * Final, If you don't mind a little more than 1/2 pot brews then ask your vendor to adjust the machine for you. Though a reminder NOT the double brew in the same pot as it will overflow. Aloha, ukeboy57

Sounds like water hammer. There is a small (very small) water hammer minimizer built in the Single and Dual brewers. If your looking at the water valve there is a small 1/4" copper tee with one end sticking upward. This usually has air trapped inside and tries to soften the water pressure as the valve open and closes. There are larger ones mounted in the bigger urns like the U-3 brewers. Though it's easier to have the plumber install a larger one at the mains to take care of the whole restaurant. * It is possible to replace the copper water line (to the brewer) with a reinforced flex hose that will take up the initial pressure of water hammer but if you are running high water pressure then there is a danger of the hose bursting. Might be better to go with an armored hose (those used under sinks) * There is one more thing is the water probe is getting too sensitive. Have the tech replace the water level board. He will want to do this as the constant clicking of the water valve will cause it to fail (like in a month or less) * High pressure can cause sloshing in the tank. This creates waves in the tank but normally the water level board will ignore this splashing on the probe. Have the tech check and clean the probe anyway. It may be possible to reduce the flow rate to the brewer (thus the water hammer pressure) by adjusting the valve that supplies the brewer. Be sure to have the Tech label the valve as someone is sure to come along and open it wide again.. Aloha, ukeboy57 PS; double check if the valve is rated for your water source. Hot water supply requires a different valve (it's bigger too.). Most come with the standard cold water supply rated valve. ukeboy57

* tank overfilling. Shock hazard! Unplug. Check warranty. Call vendor for service or replacement. * probably a leaking tank, valve, level probe, have tech check. Aloha, ukeboy57