Bosch Nexxt WTMC3321US Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I suggest you find someone to "get inside" the machine drum and find out what is damaging the clothes. I could not find the machine in "Sears Parts" to look at the drum. (They have pictures for most all US machines). I am not sure the drum might not need to be removed to repair it. There should be something there that is "snagging" the clothes and could be sanded down or smoothed somehow. If it has removable "paddles" to tumble the clothes, sometimes one could come loose and need tightening. I have seen heavy objects like large tennis shoes loosen a paddle. Be blessed.

check the door switch or the connections [2] only

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

There has to be some sort of spring on the door latch assembly that keeps the door closed. If broken or no tension the door will not latch and spring open. And when the door springs open, a safety switch shuts the machine off.

Hi Frank Liles..Here are a few causes and things to checkClogged VentIf your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system. Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle: The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees. When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.) The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again. This cycle continues until the clothes are dry.But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork. Heating ElementYour dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms. Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.Please take time to rate me Bud

Your exhaust vent pipe could be getting restricted. Make sure it is clean and free flowing.Make sure your screen is clean, and also the ventilation port in it leading to the screen. The port could also be restricted.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

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here is the way it is wired on the back of the dryer:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=10&newsdesk_id=5

outlet should correspond the same, Hope it helped Tim

Sounds like it's getting to hot. If this is the case, the "high limit thermostat" is likely bad and need to be replaced.

Not sure if this will address the problem but it maybe worth a try. We also had problems with our Nexxt dryer starting. We found the problem was with the start/stop button; it was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer. Unplug the dryer. Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because the wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel. The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break. Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can

i just had this problem. Did you notice the lint buildup under the lint drawer? Well, there is no way to recover that lint, it is not accessible by the consumer. So the lint bits get sucked in to the out take which actually pulls across the hot element. The "solution" is to replace the element and the parts surrounding. It is very expensive, and does not resolve the issue. The lint will continue to be drawn across to that area and build up and become a fire hazard. I am about to try Bosch for a solution, but that is what they have told me for now. Eventually this make/model of dryer will burn someone's house down. I am very glad I was home when the smoke detector went off. I will have to get a new dryer.

Either the low heat limit switch (part is about $20) or if you have a long and/or clogged dryer vent, suspect the dryer element (part is about $100).

https://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop(bD1lbiZjPTAwOQ==)/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=WTMC3321US%2f07&ESHOPTYPE=S
Go to the link, page 4, item 405. this is a manual reset stat which may have been activated. Turn the power off, remove the back panel, locate the stat and there is a small button in the middle of it. If when you press it, it makes a definate click, the stat was activated and you have now reset it. There should now be heat if this was the only fault. Sounds simply but now you have to check why it was triggered...check the outlet hose is not too long or becoming kinked when unit is pushed back into position, check the discharge point on the other side of the wall is not congested with fluff build up or obstructed. Make sure when you run a cycle that you always let it finish the complete cycle as the last ten minutes of the cycle is a cool down and must be completed. Check that your washing machine is spinning effectively and the load is not going into the dryer too wet. Finally, ensure you are not overloading the dryer, adhere to the max load weight as per manufacturers guidlines.
Very much hope you solve the problem and save the cost of getting someone out, all the best and good luck.

it may have a belt switch(check belt) or you have lint in the motor switch and the switch lever can't move compressed air works best to clean it

had this once upon a time turned out to be bearing swelling as the cycle went on and generated a binding on it so thus came the squealing

things I would try:

remove the power from the dryer and let sit for a while. Plug back in when you feel it is time.

If that does not reset, I would take the cover of the board to see if the button is not stuck. (remove the top 1st, the the cover of the control board will come out)

burning rubber smell means the belt is slipping, needs to be replaced

you might want check the rollers that tub rides on they are in the front lower part of the dryer, or the belt that turns the tub.

Belt broke or came off. Replace or reset belt. Be sure to reset the switch that the tension arm activates when tension is lost.

bad motor