20 Most Recent Whirlpool SF357 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

i dont know want is wrong with it when i turn the oven on it keeps saying e2 and f3 i dont know what that mean please help me one on .... :(

without more info I would check your glow bar and see if it is working

The Whirlpool SF357 (SF357PEKQ0 specifically) does not have a pilot light; only the electric igniters that light the gas on demand for both the range and the cooktop. On my gas ovens, checking the ignition is easiest with the warming drawer removed and the cover plate removed from the oven. Do you see a glow at the igniter? If yes, then the igniter is probably working. If not, check that the wiring harness between the igniter and the control board is connected and giving the appropriate power. The next thing to check is that the oven gas valve is open. (Mine have a separate valve here.) Then check that nothing is blocking the gas line and that the regulator is opening and closing properly. We had an old oven that would start the gas flow and come up to temperature normally during the pre-heat time. However, when the oven cooled, the regulator wouldn't reopen thus the oven wouldn't stay at temperature. The regulator could be forced to open with a tap to the mechanism when the oven needed to come back to temperature. Whirlpool has manuals and parts lists for the SF357 ranges on their site. https://www.whirlpool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchResultView?catalogId=10561&langId=-1&storeId=10211 . The installation guide is here: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Installation%20Instructions%20-%208273169.pdf . The owner's manual is here: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208522776.pdf . I hope this helps. Cindy Wells (In the case of our old oven, we replaced the entire range. The difference in price between a new range and the needed parts (and labor) to fix the old one were nearly the same.)

Hello,

The part called the SPARK MODULE is what produces the spark for the surface burners and it is what i would highly suspect as being the problem. Typically the spark module is located on the back behind the rear panel.

GENE

take air pump and blow around poilt ligth

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Hi,
If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

ther can be two problems with this the first thing to check and or replace is the oven temp probe it might be out of toloerance.then second thing will be your main electronic control board,or it is called the clock timer control.

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking .
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working . Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.
Replace the Glow Coil It will fix the problem
This will help. Thanks please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Most modern ranges don't use pilot lights at all; if your burners are lit by high voltage spark, the oven will use either that or a 'surface igniter' to turn on the oven. Even though pilot lights don't use much, they still use some and this would add to your bill (if you have one-we have free gas).

umm, disconnecting might not be an option, the latch is sometimes used a monitor switch, aswell,but as long as its unlatched, it wont relatch until you self clean again, i would perhaps clip the "hook end" off teh latch rather then total disconnecting it