20 Most Recent Kenmore 24.8 cu. ft. TRIO Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. I pulled the drawer all the way out. In the back is a vent flap. Ice had formed on it keeping it open. I chipped off the ice so the flap can move. This stopped the freezing veggies.My ice maker stopped working. It was suggested I change the water filter as it may be clogged preventing water moving to the ice maker. As I am getting a new refrigerator I all not be buying a new filter.This message is little late for the original poster but may help someone else.

If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Since Kenmore is manufactured by several different manufactures, you should find the model number off the equipment id tag and provide that so I can give you the best advice. It will probably be located beside the vegtable tray in that unit, but not always.You have a defrost system failure. Your defrost system is made up of the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board (newer units have incoorporated the timer onto the control board). You will need an ohm meter to check the heater (if it isn't open - it is good) and the thermostat (low ohm reading normal 28-38 ohms) but the timer is a different story. So you will need to rule out the heater and thermostat before replacing the timer/control board.

HI. This is the direct result of a failed door switch. This switch controls the actual evaporator fan, as well. This dysfunctional switch must be replaced, asap. This replacement will correct your issues. The switch will generally be loctaed or mounted near the door jamb or recessed near the the door and unit structure intersecting areas or closing points. Once extracted, it can be tested for proper functionality with a ohm/multimeter.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101


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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Hi,

One way to check the timer is to put a pen mark on the timer dial, say at 12 O?lock position. Have the fridge running for a few hours and check back and see if the marker has moved.

Another item in the defrost cycle is the DTT. (Defrost Termination Thermostat). This thermostat works in reverse and has continuity below freezing temperature. Therefore to test this you need to check coninutity by placing it in a bowl of ice for a few minutes.

Good luck
Ash

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

To address your concern on the Kenmore refrigerator, I cannot see any prior discussions you may or may not have had here with any experts, but I will say what you've described sounds like either a defrost problem or a damper problem...either one can be diagnosed internally through the process of entering a test cycle in your digital control before changing any parts in hopes of solving the problem.

The first step in doing this is to locate your fridges diagnostic sheet on the bottom behind the toe grill (usually in a sealed plastic folder) In it you will find a tech sheet with info to enter a diagnostic and also re-entering the operating "code" in an attempt to "re-program" the existing control. The number one component failure on your fridge is the "jazz" board as it is known...basically the control inside the fridge where the temps are displayed. This control is as shown, #12868513
Enter refrigerator code into board (only if reprogramming or programming a new board) diagnostics and check operation...Code is located on the Model number plate


Failure to enter the correct code will result in incorrect operation. Let me know if I can help further in any manner and I will do what I can. Good luck and thank you for choosing FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

If the temperature is the problem this could be the solution

Problems with Temperature
If the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling properly, check temperature settings and air vents and ensure there is adequate room for proper airflow. Factory-recommended temperature settings are 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius) for the refrigerator; and 37 degrees Fahrenheit (3 degrees Celsius) for the freezer.
If you need to adjust the temperature, do it one degree at a time and wait 24 hours before making additional adjustments. Check the air vents and make sure nothing is blocking them. Finally, if your refrigerator or freezer is too full, there will not be adequate room for air to circulate and cool properly. If these all check out, the problem could be with one or more compressor components and will require professional repair.

Hope this will help you.

Thanks for using FixYa : )

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hi,

Most of the time you will want that to be in the 36-40 F range...

heatman101

Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
The cold control needs replacing. Thats the knob with the numbers that turn the Ref OFF and ON.
What I do is call my local Appliance Parts Store with my model no. They are extremely helpful .
Get freezer and ref thermometer. Ref is probably too cold.
Freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees. Ref 33 to 35
If you need more help, Go here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
I hope this will help to solve the problem......