20 Most Recent Samsung 226BW Monitor - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Please look here and see what goes wrong (90% bad caps) with SAMSUNG and other monitors.
Most common failure in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what goes wrong: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further.
http://www.badcaps.net
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Post back what you find so we can guide you further.

You need to open it up and inspect the capacitors in the power supply first, look for bad caps with bulging top/seal. Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further, the porblem can also be bad inverter circuits, bad lamps, see example of failed SAMSUNG monitors here: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Remove the back of the monitor, there will a few screws to undo. Gently prise the back cover away, it is only held by a few plastic clips around the sides, once off look for the power board, if unsure just follow where the power cord plugs into the monitor. On the power board check for any blown capacitors, they are barrel like in shape and have silver tops, check for any dark liquid resadues on the capacitors or on the surrounding board, also check the caps for any domed or slightly pretruding tops, look down the board at an angle to see them, the top of the capacitors should be completly flat, if not they will need to changed. Changing them should fix your problem, if you need any further assistance post back.thanks.

For that when you power up the computer press F8 key then if you are able to see safe mode and other menu then enter in "enable vga mode" then go to display property then change screen resolution to 1024*768 then apply.
But if you are not able to see it then when you power up the computer press F1 or F2 or "del" key to enter in bios.
Then make sure your harddrive is recognized there.
if still same issue then open cpu cabinet.
Reattach the RAM memory.
Pull cmos cell from motherboard for 10 minutes.
Reattach both connection to harddrive then check.
Let me know if you need further assistance.
Thanks for using FixYa.

if the video flashes for a few minutes and then stabilizes, this fix will probably be what you need to do:
http://www.alexdemo.site90.com/#samsung2232bw_fix

Hello,

Yes,

The power inverter is the problem but you can repair it yourself. Check out our web site at: www.ccl-la.com We have a step by step repair guide for this model, its the same as the 214T. The repair requires replacing 5 small parts that will need to be soldered. If you don't want to do the repair yourself we do offer a repair service for $30 plus shipping. If you have any questions or need service contact us at [email protected]

I hope this helps, if so please rate our solution.

Buddy
Corporate Computer
www.ccl-la.com

First place to look will in the power supply section, look for bad caps with bulging top/bottom seal, post back what you see inside so we can help you further, see example of failed SAMSUNG monitors due to bad caps here: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Sounds like the backlight's gone. You can try to open up the case and replace it, but an easier (and probably cheaper) option is to simply buy a new monitor

This problem may be due to various reasons. I advise you to visit a service center. they will replace the faulty part,( You may call them and explain them by giving the serial number and model Code).

If the lines are parmanent, Then suspected part is LCD Panel.

I just did this to a friends monitor as well, a different model and not much different in build. I think you might have 3 screws on lower back side of cover. Start your separation from the bottom of the frame.Your power switch will remain on the front frame while the wire will remain with the rest.

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable(if you need to remove it), two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel. Unhook the 4 plugs(blues and pinks)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.
The capacitors top-plain should be flat(not rounded) and there should be no color whatsoever coming through the top of the cap lines(google "bad capacitors"). The specs of the cap are on the cap. The 2 caps cost me $4.00. Now keep in mind there are hazards to this.Google them;)

colinfaver, I think a visit to YOUTUBE and conduct a search for longer vid clips of "lcd monitor disassembly" and "lcd monitor repair" for monitors that suffer from the "black screen of death" syndrome and what internal electronic components fail and how to visually locate them on a "switch-mode-power-supply" and possibly replace them with new good ones and with a little luck end up with a working monitor. Your 226BW is SICK, and will probably do same if connected to a different PC with same ambient room temperature. Yes, problem with SMPS/CCFL inverter supply getting a bit tired!! If this was of help to you, please rate on fixya, and do return comment. 12fixlouie Bye for now.

- This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.

Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for a day with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps

try a known good monitor on the PC, is the light blinking green or orange?
www.aa1consuling.com

Oct 23, 2009- This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.

Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. Oct 23, 2009- I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

You could have a faulty inverter board or faulty CCFL lamp.
Check out LCD Parts for service, parts and DIY info - click on this link to their WEB site. :-
www.lcdparts.net

Look for any bulging capacitors, instead of a flat top they will look "pregnant".

If you see any of those then replace them with capacitors of the same UF rating and the voltage needs to be either the same or higher.

If you dont see any bulging capacitors or burnt parts, then its got be the LCD at that point thats not staying on and the cost to replace the LCD is as much if not more then to just get another monitor.

Hello cstafford35,

Your monitor has a very common problem. The internal power supply has blown a part called a capacitor. If you are comfortable working with electronics and with soldering I can talk you thru the diag/repair. If you are not ready to tackle that we also offer a repair service, about $30 plus shipping for your model. Let me know if you want to try fixing it yourself and we can go from there. The repair will require opening the monitor case and replacing from 2 - 5 parts. You can call me at 318-447-9040 if you have questions.

Buddy
Corporate Computer