20 Most Recent Whirlpool GS563LXSS - stainless Steel Gas Kitchen Range - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

heatman101

Hi,
Here it is..

http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/whirlpool/gs563lxss1.html

heatman101

After calling to schedule service, thought to try unplugging, wait 10 seconds, replugging to see if it reset anything.
To my amazement, it reset something and the oven started right up. No service call, no parts replaced, working again!

Try this :) press and hold one of your push buttons on your key pad for 1-3 min and wait for the error code. if you get a F2 Error then your problem is a intermittent stuck key on your key pad and you will need to replace it to repair the problem.

The model number you provied has a missing number at the end so I am using GS56LXSS0 for this example. This unit is using a spark ignitor instead of a Glow Ignitor.

This system also uses a Spark Modual control board to provide the spark to the spark ignitor. The spark modual is a common part that goes bad and could be your problem and is located in the control area part # 9758080

Note : All the spark Ignitors on your Stove are connected to this spark modual and if any of them are shorting anyware this will cause a problem with the spark modual and the amount of spark given to each spark ignitor.

Most controlboards can't handel a power surge more than 125V and is a reasonable expanation.

Your model number is missing a number at the end and if your model # is GS563LXSS0 or GS563LXSS1 then the Main Control part # is a W10116542

I pushed the night light button until the range reset itself then I took off the loc. After a few seconds the burners came back on.

if there is a cover over the light globe you can normally unscrew it, it can be hard because of the heat that your oven runs at; take the light globe down to you local electrical supplier and they will most likely be able to find another one.

It is not good to do the self clean. The electronics take a beating. Probably the ignitor went out. The oven gets too hot. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hold the night light button for @ 3 seconds. It works for me.

Do the surface burners ignite properly?

Hi

Odors in the refrigerator can come from many different sources. Spoiling food, spilled milk, open food. Often a really good cleaning out with an ammonia cleaner can help or with a baking soda water mixture.
But, sometimes an odor can "permeate" into one of the plastic parts found inside the fridge, crisper pans, door liners, shelf supports. Even after you have found the spoiling food, removed it, cleaned the fridge up.....sometimes another plastic part will pick up this odor and continue to give the odor back off. A few things that can help with this type of an odor, place one these inside the fridge section:
- box of baking soda
- dish of coffee grounds
- open slices of bread
The bread trick can be used to effectively to remove odors. Just throw a slice or two onto one of the shelves in the fresh food compartment, leave the bread slice(s) in there for 12-24 hours -no longer- and then throw the bread out or I throw the bread outside for the birds to eat. When bread goes stall, it will **** in odors very well. Because the air inside the refrigerator is blown between both sections, this will help the fridge and freezer sections. Do this for about a week and you should notice a big change in the odor problem :-)
A really bad odor problem. Sometimes something like milk or juice is spilled inside the fridge. The liquid can run under the plastic edge breakers and get into the insulation. This can be very difficult to clean and may require a service call to have the old insulation removed and replaced with new insulation in that section.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

The buzzing you are experiencing is most likely the electric valve solenoid coil.
That is the valve that lets gas in when the stove is turned on.
Another source of buzzing/humming can be a mechanical clock, if hter is one.
If it is digital, then it woul not make noise.

Did you try WD40(in the UK) or Q20(in South Africa)? You can buy it at hardware shops. It is a penatration flued which is a bit oily.

We had those same symptoms with our range out of the box. It was a problem with the PC board and it was fixed under warranty.

I posted a similar problem earlier today but never saw it come up. Anyway I found the problem for me. My problem was a "LOC" display came up when I plugged the stove in after bringing it home (bought used off craigs list). This made the stove top inoperable, no gas supply.
SOLUTION:
There is a Cooktop Lockout as part of the night light switch which you hold down for 3 seconds to activate or deactivate. This is not the same as the Control Lockout which is next to the switch I am describing. Anyway doing this will make the "LOC" display go away and you will hear the gas valve activate or deactivate respectively.