KitchenAid KHMS2050SSS Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Its possible it may need a rest or something biut see this video: More links:

The magnetron is supposed to read nearly zero ohms across the two terminals. You are measuring the resistance of the filiament/heater/cathode of the tube. Activity in the magnetron occurs when the heated electrons are emitted from the cathode, pass through the magnetic field, swirl about, bounce in and out of indentations (vanes) in the tube, and finally land on the plate (antenna). The resistance from the cathode to the plate should be infinite. If not, you probably have a bad tube. Or, if there is continuity between the heater and the case, then you have a shorted tube.

What eventually happens to most vacuum tubes is that the cathode (filiament in this case) becomes coated with a material which inhibits the launching of electrons into the tube. When the flow becomes too low, oscillation ceases, and you have no microwave output. Sometimes they reach the threshold, but do no cross over quickly. Then you have a magnetron that is intermittent for a while. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

KitchenAid Appliance Fault Codes - PartSelect

www.partselect.com/JustForFun/Kitchen-Aid-Appliance-Fault-Codes.aspx Fault codes for a number of KitchenAid appliances, including two and four digit codesfor ... F9 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check door lock switches and wiring.

behind door their is trim round the door use flat knife go between the trim will pop out and open 2 sc

I had an arcing sound coming from above the cardboard panel inside the microwave. When I saw it sparking I took the cover off and saw that these two aluminum looking things had come loose. I removed the cover and did a fair bit of 'fine tuning' to get it working again.

To remove the door, you must first remove the top and side cover. There are screws on the back side of the cover. After the screws are removed the cover should slid to the back and lift off. the door hinges should then be visible. Some more disassembly my be required to access the hinge fasteners. If this is a built in oven you mist first remove the trim kit so that you can remove the oven form the cabinet.

my microwave did not have a fuse. are you sure it is not a switch?

no problem both wires are inter faced also working

I am glad to hear someone else is having the same issue we are. We've been dealing with this for about a year. We've called Kitchenaid numerous times and they say they seem shocked as if no one else has this issue. Thanks to all who suggested how to fix this and we'll give it a try.

The main fuse is inside the cabinet near where the power cord enters. When everything goes dead all of a sudden, 99.9% of the time it's the fuse. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Most likely it's an electronic failure of the main circuit board. Although extremely unlikely, I have seen an oven or two that have had these symptoms that were caused by an insect walking on the back of the circuit board. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

It sounds like a fuse. With the door fuse blown it will cause the microwave to not operate all all. It is a small thing to swap over. Its a bit like a car fuse. There will be a few different ones but all have a different purpose. Not sure if you are handy or a local electrical handyman can do the job.

Hi Ben, This has got to be an intermittent power to the control PCB problem. The control board asking to set the clock means that the CPU has been reset by losing power. First, make sure that the problem is not the outlet by plugging in a small lamp or digital clock to see if it works intermittently or resets. Leave it plugged in for at least 24 hours. (If using a lamp, put in a small 20 watt light bulb or CFL). It could also be a bad connection to or at the fuse holder in the microwave oven. If all of the wiring and connections look good, it's most likely a bad connection on the control PCB probably around the transformer on the board. Be careful.......

There should be a technical sheet hidden behind the controls of the unit, and it will contain a wiring diagram.You didn't mention your full model with suffix, so I don't know if I have your exact model's but the one for KCMS1145JSS1 is here at my Web site.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.Feel free to contact me directly if you need further troubleshooting help. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If for some reason you do not have your owner's manual, you can download it here.If changing the bulb is not covered in the manual, then it will require disassembly.In that case, you can can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Unplug, remove top, look under keypad, follow wires to circuit board, look for a silver rectangular capacitor, "may be under a plastic flap" discharge capacitor with a screwdriver across the 2 points, look for a small fuse near by in clips, remove and replace with same current rating, assemble before test because lethal voltages present when powered.

Since you didn't mention the model number, I have to be kind of general.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hello,

the problem of this unit is power related.

First, remove the unit's power cord from the wall, wait for about 30mins, then plug it back in. It may cool by then and might power on. If it doesn't power on, plug it into another outlet, to make sure there electricity entering into the unit.

If plugging into another power outlet doesn't power it on then the unit is most likely having a power problem.

When electric current comes from the power outlet into the cooker, it goes straight into the power supply board which then circulates the current into the unit. So if the cooker doesn't power on, the first thing is to make sure there is power entering into the machine.

So check the power cord, if it is a 3-pin plug, it must have a fuse in it. check the fuse if it is not blown. if fuse is intact, then power supply board should be checked.

If any machine or electronics device doesn't power on, it means its having a power problem. it might have worked fine in the past, but that's electronics for you. Power surge, irregular power supply, excess power supply, etc can affect the unit thereby not making it to power on.

This unit must have a power supply board in it where power enters from the mains. A capacitor, fuse, diode, etc may have been defective on the power board and maybe that's why its not making the unit turn on. There might also be some disconnection or something, inside the unit which is not making it to power on.

To actually find out what's wrong, you need to disassemble the unit with a screw driver and check what's wrong. You will be needing a meter and continuity tester in order to read the components on the power board, once you detect any bad component, you can make necessary replacement at any electronics accessories store withing our vicinity. This is the only way by which you can detect the problem.

Of course, testing the power board with a meter will require someone that has the ability. So it you can't, then you might be needing the help of a repairman or you can call a friend that has the ability to help you out.

I wish you the best of luck.

Regards.

Hi there,
Things that we may want to consider are, It could be that the training or the technician's company have their "safety" guidelines and procedures that they have to follow or the technician could be afraid of the leaking radiation causing trouble for him and for you.
I also believe that a faulty waveguide would disperse radiation to any direction. However it can be the cause of the radiation leaking outside. perhaps the lining he's talking about covers the entire microwave inside and not just some part of it.
If you'd ask me getting second technician out and paying that $60 without the assurance of them replacing it, I strongly recommend that you just get a new one and let this one go.
It would ensure you a working unit and more safe environment (since AHS won't replace it).
Your question about how did he know that the waveguide is pitted I don't know how he knew it but the wand he used definitely detected a radiation leakage so I think that what caused it and how it happened should be less priority now and what you should think of is to have a hazard free home.
Hope this helps!