20 Most Recent Amana LW8203 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!


If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Overflow problems are commonly attributed to a pressure switch malfunction. The switch is located behind the load level (size) selector knob on the operator console. There is a small air hose that attaches to the pressure switch and runs to the bottom of the wash tub basin. The air flow from this hose enables the pressure switch to sense the pressure differential from the wash tub basin as the washer fills. When the tub fills to the appropriate level, the pressure from the hose shuts off the pressure switch.

I would recommend you open the operator console and check to ensure the small air hose is still intact and connected to the pressure switch. It is common for the hose to come loose from the switch and fall off. If this occurs, the pressure switch will be disabled and will not shut off the water supply, resulting in an overflow. If the hose has fallen off, reattach to the pressure switch as necessary. HINT: Placing a small zip tie around the air hose at the point where it fits over the nipple on the pressure switch can prevent vibration from causing the hose to dislodge in the future. DO NOT over tighten the zip tie or you can damage the pressure switch. Tighten until snug.

Inspect the entire length of the air hose to ensure there are no breaks, kinks, or holes that will cause air to leak. Then, check the electrical connection (with the washer UNPLUGGED) to ensure the contacts are clean and there are no broken wires.

If the air hose and electrical connections are good, and the problem still occurs, replace your pressure switch. Replacement parts can be purchased from any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list also include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. Prices vary, so shop around. The average price is less than $40.

If you require additional assistance, please post back with your COMPLETE MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hello again,

Hope you haven't waited long, i was watching a hockey game and so i just got your message.

The best and easiest way to install the new belt is to unfasten the motor bracket from the base, then undo the pump as that will allow the pump to come off.

( t may need to be wiggled bit as it can get stuck on the shaft, or a spray of WD40 or equivalent on the shaft will usually work too )

Then you can loop the belt around the motor pulley, reinstall the pump, then the motor. From there you should be able to rap the belt around the drive pulley, belt tensioner.

I'd suggest you take few photos or draw a diagram of how the old belt is routed before installing the new one, but other than that you should be good to go.

**Of course turn the power off or unlug it from the wall...safety first**

Hope this helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further and I will try and help in any manner I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

It sounds to me what you're describing is worn brake pads on your washer's gearcase, thus not holding the basket while the unit agitates. It is actually fairly common and regular wear over time.

You can purchase the pads at most brick & mortar appliance parts depots or on-line parts vendors such as "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple for around $20USD.

**Unplug the washer from the wall before performing any service...safety first**

If you pull the front panel of the washer off and look at the bottom of the transmission...above the belt pulley you should see three carbon pads as these shown here...


Everything in the image is included in the kit as well as instructions to install them. If you follow this link you can observe an exploded illustration of the components I'm referring to as well...

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fI2204660-00013.png

Installing the new pads is actually really straight forward and requires only removing the old ones, and it isn't too difficult with a little patience and a small socket set.

Hope this helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further and I will try and help in any manner I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Your transmission or your drum brake has failed. Sounds like your drum brake!

The problem is the timer has failed. This is easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru the replacement. You can also enter in your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions.

Hello. The most common reason for your problem lies within the hoses that fill your machine, located in the rear. Pull the machine out from the wall and turn off the water. Then use a pair of channel locks or other pliers to remove one hose from the wall faucet. Check the screen and remove any debris that is found there. Then reconnect that hose and repeat the process with the other hose. Regards, Joe

this problem is caused by a defective washer timer control, this is the control u turn to set the cycle, to replace this disconnect the power to the machine, then pull the washer out away from the wall, pull the inner and out knob off the timer shaft, then remove the back panel of the washers top panel the timer set in, it is held on by just a few screws, then disconnect the electrical plug to the wader timer, remove the washer timer retaining screws, remove the timer, i suggest u ge the new part before you start the job. here is a link to an illustrated parts diagram.

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=135742&ModelNum=LW8203W2&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=21572&Position=20&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=24

try putting it on spi - do you hear anything? could be a broken belt - very easy to fix.

move the cloths around to balance the load better or put less in the machine

your problem is probably the coupling that ataches the motor to the transmission , take the skirt of the washer off , take the motor off and you going to see the rubber coupling if is bad just change it , cheap part

well either pull it out with pliers from inside or you will have to split the drum cover.
You will have to remove motor hoses etc. and take out the whole drum housing.
Split it and pull wire out. If you go to this length please clean heating ellement too thna.

Not difficult just a lot of time..

Good luck

this is a big job and you need special tools to fix it so i would have a repair man fix it