20 Most Recent Dayton Gas Furnace Heater - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Yes, it can be set on concrete blocks or anything non-flammable.
Also make sure that you do not run it if you are working with flammable gases or materials. I don't believe that that heater is sealed combustion.
Make sure also that you have correct venting so you don't wake up dead...
If you can take good precaution then go for it...

Heatman101

Try national energy the are on line

You will need a convestion kit try national energy they are on line they could well do the kit you need .

Pressure switch stuck open , check tubes are on tight not split on the connections to the pressure switch, sound like you will need a new one

Is the manual gas valve open, either plumbed or on gas valve? It may sound dumb, but it happens. Are the wires connected to the gas flow solenoid securely?When the heat call initiates heat cycle, can you observe the ignitor? If it tries to ignite, is there gas entering the burner? How clean is the gas orifice? If the orifice is plugged, best to simply replace it.

replace if auto reset switch, no button. Check for proper fan operation and airflow so not to trip limit switch.

Check heat exchanger for cracks or holes which will cause the fan to blow out the flames. The flame sensor on the pilot or burners has to be in constant contact with flame to operate normally. If the flame is put out by a cracked exchanger the exchanger or furnace needs to be replaced.

chech the flame sensor or thermocouple which ever it is equipt with. Sensors can be cleaned by lightly sanding them and therocoulpe's need to be replaced.

Check the flue for a restriction

On older systems the fan is controlled by a time delay relay which will turn of the blower after a preset time when a call for heat is present regardless if there is a burner function or not. Need to check why the main gas valve is not energizing, there are to many configurations for a complete diagnostic without further info, Model, Brand etc.

If as you stated the drain is working properly, then the pressure which may have to be relocated, or the rubber hose to an alternate location/port, most newer systems can be installed in may different positions and the plumbing/drain kit has to be configured properly for the type of installation, sometimes in colder climates moving the pressure switch and hose above the hose port prevents condensation from building up in the switch.

Sounds like a safety device is open, the pressure switch or if older unit it will have another type of safety switch, but the switch has to close when a call for heat begins. A pressure switch on newer units have a small rubber type hose to a port on the heater next to draft motor assembly, check the hose and port for a restriction, if all clear then the pressure switch may need replaced.

Control board may have a bad relay which is what energizes the motor, first make sure the thermostat is sending 24 volts to the "W" terminal which will call for heating and draft motor operation.

Most heaters has a pilot proving sensor of one type or another, it will be in direct contact with the pilot flame to prove that the pilot is lit and then will allow for the main gas to the burners to open. If the proving device has failed then it needs replaced.