Many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi,When the penny jammed the pump the unit will stop working, when the pump cools down it should start working again, unless you have had this issue for a while. I would just replace the pump and install the fuse that comes with the pump now completely. You should not have any more issue if you complete the instruction that come with new pumps today.Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi,There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not TurningDryer Repair - The dryer will not startheatman101
Many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
No promises but try this!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Sounds like a clog, either the drain tube, drain hose, or drain pump/diverter valve.
If your drain hose is connected to a drain tube/pipe, it's possible there's a clog in the plumbing somewhere. Running a snake through the drain tube should fix this
Disconnect the drain hose and look for a blockage. Sometimes lint, or paper will become lodged inside the hose and water will back up
The drain pump/diverter valve is a common place for a backup to occur. To inspect the drain pump, unplug the machine and disconnect the drain hose from the drain tube. Put down a blanket or towel and tilt the machine forward. At the bottom of the machine you will see the drain pump with a hose connected by a clamp. Using pliers, disconnect the clamp. There may also be a mounting screw holding the drain pump in place. Unscrew the mounting screw. Now the pump should pull away freely. Using a small flathead screwdriver or tweezers or even needlenose pliers, you should be able to dig out any obstruction. Typically paper that has fallen out of pockets will get stuck in the drain pump forcing water in the other direction, causing it to spill out onto the floor.
Below is a helpful video to both check and remove a drain pump / diverter valve.
Hi,
Tip the unit back, the pump is where you would need to look, it should be on your right towards the front. If the water level in low you can do this with out getting wet, If full, you will need to remove the water before trying this. There is a clip to the drain pump, lift the clip easy, rotate the pump and pull down, if clogged you should see it there.
I am here if you need more information I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249
You could have a blown Motor controller module or failed Motor Controller Board. There could also be another fault that caused this to blow up like a faulty drain pump, lid lock or Diverter valve, inlet valve. You'd need to use an ohm meter to test all these.
Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept this particular suggestion.
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced.If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:
Unplug
the machine. Turn off the inlet pipe; disconnect tube to check carefully if
anything is blocking the fine screen on both sides of the pipe. Also check the
machine screen where water comes to the machine.
Actually
there are 3 possibilities.
1. The water inlet valve solenoid (hot or cold) has failed.
2. Pressure switch (tells water level of machine) failed.
3. Timer Failed.
Also
the lid lock switch is a magnetic reed switch. Open the console, inside there
should be a tech sheet, referred to that. It is helpful to troubleshoot your
problem.
Please
get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com
This means the motor control is getting a faulty signal from the RPS (Rotor Position Sensor). Check for a bad connection between the RPS sensor (located on the stator for the direct-drive motor) and the controller, or a bad RPS sensor. We stock the replacement RPS sensor, you can order it here.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Whoops- answered you other posting first, sorry ;-0)
The same thing applies- I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Check that the washer supply is OK using another item - a kettle for instance. If it's not check your breakers/fuses. Reset/replace if necessary and if the same thing happens ( or if there was nothing wrong with the breakers/fuses in the first place) sorry but with such a fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what could be wrong with your washer. It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB.
I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
tilt the machine to get to the bottom and there is an electric pump that you can remove with no tools, you twist if out. after that is removed you should see what has clogged your pump.. I spent 4 hours disassembling my entire machine , cleaning it, trying to find out what was wrong. And the fix could of just taken me 1 minute.. Next time... But at least I know how to take everything apart now, very easy and simple machine to work on.
Hi - I have never come across a code 24 but in hind sight all codes from 17 - 32 are comm related errors ranging from one form or another and often due to mismatched components - noted as you have exchanged the controller module - these do look similar but the important code is the product number found on the sticker at rear of the machine - they represent the parts inserted into a particular range although it may say IWL15 or GWL12 but do have identical components under the hood if can follow me on this.
Sorry cannot be more useful - without actually seeing the machine i cannot be 100% certain as what is actually causing the error.
The symptom presented here indicates a draining problem. The machine will not advance to the rinse or spin cycle unless the wash water or rinse water, respectively, is drained first.
The Wash Progress LEDs are also designed to flash a code when a problem occurs. These LEDs serves as digits for an 8-digit binary number being 1 for on and 0 for off. Indicate which among the LEDs to determine the code and the necessary actions to be undertaken.
The problem is indeed in the draining if you get fault code 37. Either
the drain hose is clogged or kinked, the diverter valve has failed, or
the pump itself is restricted or not working at all. Check to make sure
that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine
on its front on a cushioned surface to access the drain pump and the
diverter valve. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and
clear them from any debris that may prevent water from draining out.
Check the impeller for any damage or restriction. Make sure the impeller
is not frozen or blocked.
Also check the diverter valve for the
same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where
the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from.
Make sure the diveter valve is in the drain position while the drain
pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if
deemed necessary.
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