20 Most Recent Stanton ST-150 Turntable Questions & Answers

Does decks are too bad build, i gave them away

Well, you have the rotor, which has above the conus where you put your platter on. But the rotor needs to be kept in space, so it can spin, which offcourse in the is done by (too soft) bearings, but the bottom of the the rotor(which looks the same as the 'pin' where you put you vinyl on, just leans on a piece of metal, instead of a technics where it falls in a shaft too keep it is place. You undestnd that the strength on the bearings of a st150 is much higher, especially when scratching. Besides that, the high torque works 0,2 sec and then an optocoupler samples the speed of the rotor. And it's easy:on the underside of the rotor ,there's a plastic round disc puled over the rotor and kept on his place by a plate and 3 screws, with on the outside just

does your needle is clean , and first of all does the the stand straight

Yes that's normal since the spindle leans of a thin metal plate , which you simetimes had to lubricate. Check if one ain't pushed don a bit (remove backplate of motor cap in the unit, four screws and lubricate it with thinker paste, since it has no storage zone, the same fault that technics has. And hit the plate it the middle, if it ain't flat anymore( not to hard to begin with and stop when it's flat. Push against the spindel and check that everything moves free.then check the tiny imbuss that keep the inning wheel at its's place , if you had easy movement, then it was loose , soo screw it a bit loose , hold the spindle from above and push it straight up and tied in thisosition. check if everything i s free again and close everything and screw it together, But a bit height differences doesn' t matter, why would it?as long everything runs free, they need to have space, so after these checks and lubriication which you have to do allways once a year at least and heavy stratcher more, but they din't use stantonJust relax

That is a lack of maintenainance, but your real problem is that yourvoltage regulator from -24 en 24v gets to hot, since the stanton has crappy everything, where cheap build and often the components aint screw against the cooling block, so first check that and well , there about 60 crappy su\'scon caps that needs replacement. It\'s a tt from hell with the useless weight. Your system started spinning hard, cause the thermal protection started to work. Overheating, since most peoples set the start and stop torque set at the highest point, and with the small cooling blocks you get a problem and by pressing the platter, you ask for more current and that was just too much, if your bearings were that bad you assume , you have heart a lot more noice.gr richard

See if it has a starting capacitor

If you have misc LEDs that are flashing without due cause and a motor, I'm betting a Direct Drive motor, that won't spin, I would same you have a damaged microprocessor(computer) within your table that's bad. For more information or further questions, please visit my website at audioserviceclinic.com. Thank you.

Did it start after first having played in a warm environment, the powerstage gets easy too hot...especially the njm 7824 and 7924...those are the two voltage reg. next to the 2200uF capacitors. The 'big once' and since the whole turntable is build with 3 cent suscon capacitors, i would first look if none of them stands bold. Yu don't need a diagram, it's powerstage is easy to follow. I bought two and replaced everything in the powerstage....and ,every suscon cap...The whole unit is a rip off, with pcb's (besides the pcb off the motherboard 2012+ model)...it looks nice, but on the inside it's a engineers nightmare(i have a masterdegree micro=ectronics)... If you have to solder, do it very carefully, cause before you know it you remove a copperpoint, , But the whole unit is very easy to de-assemble. I would first lok for broken caps, then the ic's, And since the mb contains also a lot of all the same caps...watch that board either. I don't excpect the microproc to be broken, since it turns on. Can you move your platter still easy?. My advice..if works again, sell it... The weight is is useless and makes it topheavy.. The feet don't do a thing....Everything is plastic and rebuilding costs a lot...and besides that.. Nobody has spareparts or a schematic. If i compare my technics to an oem....you can every part/ic/reprogram it and stock they are simple, nice build , with way more metall parts... The tonearms don't differ a lot, but you can buy lots of upgrades..not cheap btw... good luck

As this is a Direct Drive turntable, it may be several problems. Yes, the motor could be bad, have power supply issues, etc. For more information, or should you have any further questions, please visit my website at audioserviceclinic.com. You may contact me through the website. Thank you.

Most likely an internal fuse. Or a faulty on-off switch.

if you can find a fuse or reset switch, replace/reset that first. look around where the power cable enters the device.if it has no fuse, you've probably cooked the transformer which converts outlet voltage (mains) to whatever the voltage the device is designed to run on. if that's the case, then you'll just need to swap in a transformer that matches the requirements of the deck to the output voltage of whatever country you want to use it in.if this sounds too daunting and you're not confident with taking electrical stuff apart, go to a shop and get them to sort it for you.long and short, don't ditch your deck just yet, Chet.

The self-lubricating bushing in the turn-table is dried out. This is a difficult problem to solve and best left to an expert. Don't expect great results.

Probably a faulty cartridge. [email protected]

Not to worry if you can take some pains and be confident. First of all arrange the turntable, the mixer, the amplifiers and the speakers. Connect the turntables two RCA pins to the PHONE pins L and R. of the mixer. Using another set of RCA cables to connect the output of the mixer to the amplifier's AUX inout L and R. Try to connect the red and white in accordance to the L&R. The speakers should be cconnected to the left and right of the amplifier's main. if you have front and rear use them but connect with the polarity of the red and black polarity . Use a good power supply multipin unit to connect all the power. Do not switch on until you have checked once again. Now switch on and play your favourite record. DO take time to do and you will suceed. Good day

Yikes! I don't see a price list for that model on their web site and I wonder if it would be better to buy another table and use the broken for "parts"?

http://www.djdeals.com/partsSTANTON.htm check this sight out always been able to find what i need if not listed give em a call they can help you out