20 Most Recent Yamaha RX-797 Receiver Questions & Answers

Here are some things to check: Is the loudness control turned off or set to a very low level? If the PURE DIRECT button is turned on with the LOUDNESS control level at 0, you won't hear anything. Have you removed the jumpers from the PRE Out/MAIN IN jacks? If so, the unit will only perform as a power amplifier. Is the CD DIRECT AMP turned on? If so, the unit will only make sound if the PURE DIRECT button is on. Check the CD DIRECT AMP and the PURE DIRECT buttons are both turned off. This should produce sounds. If ti doesn't, check that the A and B buttons are on for their speakers. Both can be on.

You have too much power being ran to the amp and it's overheating.Lower your wattage.

Check the ohm load for the reciever, then check to see what ohms are of the speakers. make sure they match. 4ohm to 4ohm, 8ohm to 8ohm. If unit feels hot when it shuts off, it's a themal overload, put in to keep the reciever from getting damaged. It comes back on when cool right? Overload could be on its way out and shutting down at a lower temp too

The display is backlit with an incandescent bulb an easy fix. Two wires from power supply to a white plastic hollow reflector assy, similar to the back of an auto headlight assy. unplug at pwer supply and remove bulb from reflector insert new bulb and your done. Be careful not to damage pc board above reflector it's the controller for the LCD dislplay.

Just the tuner stops working or the whole receiver?

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and
operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by
the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient
ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan
(if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris
from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection
cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the
cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections
and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not
come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on
tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as another possible root cause for
intermittent shutdown.

That would be consistent with reaching an overload threshold on the amplifier's outputs.

This is mostly boilerplate but it may lead you to the problem...

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Yamaha-RX-797-Receivers-manual/id/320ag612/t/2/

I assume you've placed the Bose Active EQ in where the Pre-Out >> Main In jumpers were. Do you have the return from the Bose Active EQ going back into the Main In so it can continue to the Sub Output.

Or do you have the Bose EQ Tape Switch activated incorrectly?

The combined resistance of both pairs on at the same time causes more current to flow and so on loud music is likely to be making the Yamahas protection circuit trip out.

If you really need to use all 4 of these speakers consider wiring them up through a seperate swicth box that does it in 'series' rather than the 'parallel' method Yamaha use.
AW

OK. Both are attached via analog cables to different inputs so what you're hearing is NOT actually audio program-related but more likely some kind of grounding or shielding issue.

Lower the volume then see what happens if you...

...float the laptop so it's running on its battery?

...reattach the laptop power but rotate the AC power plug 180 degrees?

...rotate the CD power connector?

...disconnect only the laptop audio?

...disconnect only the CD audio?

Something should change the symptom.

I don't know why the comment from Yamaha about Tape Monitor killing digital inputs is relevant.

According to the manal I downloaded, THIS stereo receiver doesn't have digital inputs.

As to using 901's and 301's...

You will need a separate Power Amp for either the 901's or the 301's. Sorry, but you can't share the amp with the Active-Equalized signal and non-901's.

I use 901's and 301's in MY 7.1 rig with a separate amp for the 901 and NOT using a Tape Monitor, but a preamp out feed for the front channels.

I wrote most of this for a different receiver, but if you account for minor differences to your receiver this will work just fine.

There's good news and bad news. The bad news you need a separate amp because a multichannel receiver with Bose 901's attached as recommended for a standard stereo receiver will only sound right in STEREO on stereo analog material. The other speakers around the room are not designed to receive its Active Equalization and if you engage your Tape Monitor you will NOT BE ABLE TO HEAR DIGITAL sources at all. Tape Monitor is for analog stereo material only and on modern AV receivers it disables any digital inputs so you really can't use the Tape Monitor circuit or attached devices for modern digital sources. However, you can still employ the various DSP options to spread 2-channel analog source material around the room. I do.

The good news. I have a setup similar to what you want to do and it works great!

A separate stereo amp for the 901's was my solution. I run a Carver AV-406 (5-channel amp) for my 901's in Front, 2 Subwoofers and the Rear Surround channel, with the Active EQ between the receiver Front L&R Outputs and the 901's amp channels. My receiver controls everything and just drives the Center and Surround speakers.

You could get by with just a stereo amp for the 901's. A Carver M-200 is a good efficient amplifier that would have you cooking just fine (2x100W). Run it with the Active EQ between the receiver Front L&R Pre-Outputs ** and the 901's amp channels.

** Front Pre Out (or one of your analog Tape Outs) >>> Bose EQ Amplifer IN, then
Bose EQ Amplier OUT >>> new amplifier IN.

Attach the 901's to the new amp, set its volume to Max and run through your receiver's speaker level setup.

Write off the Tape Out as an input if you use it to extract the Front L&R channels. DO NOT monitor it or you'll chop the 901's out of the signal path AND kill any digital source audio in the receiver.

Hello sounds like you want to take the low level zone 2 output and run it to the PRE AMP in?

If that is correct the onboard amplifier will power your speakers but will no longer provide sound for your main channel as you are removing the "loop" which send the front L & R signal to the amp.

Your best bet is to find an inexpensive secondary amplifier.

Sonance makes a sonamp 260 or 260x3. These are available on ebay for under $100 and work great for multiroom applications.
A 260x3 would give you 3 speaker outputs allowing you to run not only to your patio but also to two other locations and includes a switch to turn each zone on/ off.

Hope that helps

It may not need repair. if you have it hooked up to a TV, by video, s-video, or component. Press the menu button on the remote and you can see the main menu of the unit on the TV. Navigate the menu up/down/left/right/enter until you get to "display". You should be able to turn the display of the receiver on/off. If you don't have the manual. http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/Documents/YEC/Stereo_Receivers/Manual/RX-797_e_U_p.pdf That's the PDF from Yamaha. I haven't used this particular unit, but that's the way it's done on all the other series. ie. RX-V or RX-Z. Hope this helps

isn't that nice of them to just list the yamaha code for CD players? I sent yamaha an email about it. we'll see what they say...

have you checked out the new universal remotes that are out now?

http://universalremote.com/consumer/products.php

http://www.compuplus.com/i-Universal-Remote-Control-URC-R50-Digital-R50-Universal-Remote-Control-1028369~.html?sid=jn84494w6bxh2e2

I expect there is either a power supply issue or one of the amplifiers has failed causing over current to turn it off as a protection to the power supply.