Top 10 Black & Decker 19" Electric Lawnhog Mulching Mower with Rear Bag Questions & Answers

the pic says the connection are not right.all left side connection are for brake which is the red & white wire. all right side connection are two black wire.

I have repaired mines. It was found in the trash dump, just before street curb side trash collection. It is a very sophisticated lawn mower. It taken me a month to restore it. The problem is the housing is poor design and does not hold the pin switch securely. This is not a simple on/off switch. It is switch module with two momentary switches built in to it to work simultaneously. The hot is a normally open momentary switch and the neutral is a normally closed momentary switch. Two things must occurred simultaneously for the lawn mower to work. The AC hot has to close and the neutral to open. This is a split phase AC motor. The switch has four connectors to it. The first two has black wires to it, for the hot, that is normally open. The second two has a white wire and red wire to it for the motor's start up winding. The orange connects with the plug's white, neutral. A new substitute switch will be two individual momentary switch, one for the two black wires will be normally open and the two for the red and white wires from the motor start coil will be normally close. It will take two fingers to operate the lawn mower. I recommend you to buy a new and each switch from Black and Decker.
The problem with the system is not the switch, but the poorly designed switch box housing. Often, there is nothing wrong with the switch. I tested mines and it works fine. The problem is the switch box housing does not keep the switch in the correct position for the higher tension spring lever to press against it to operate. I use small washers to stack between the rear of the switch inside and reassembled the switch box upside down by turning the handle upside down, so the washers and switch do not fall out. Once I am finished assembling the switch box and position it on the handle, then I position the handle back to the normal top side and attach the handle back to the lawn mower. I am finished.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor

"Split Phase Motors
Split phase ac motors are widely used for low power applications as for example in oil burners, furnace blowers, garage door openers and major appliances. Such motors employ separate run and start windings connected in parallel across the acpower source. When the motor is initially energized both windings are energized, and when the rotor speed reaches about eighty-five percent of the normal running speed the start winding is disconnected from the circuit. Various devices are utilized forthis latter purpose and include centrifugal switches and current and voltage relays.

A problem which is characteristic of these motors is that they have a relatively short operating life. The principal reason for this is the failure of the switching devices used to cut out the start windings when the rotors approach the normalrunning speeds.Failure of these switching devices in turn cause the start windings to burn out.

One of the reasons for the failure of these switching devices is the high currents which they are carrying at the time the contacts open. Attempts to increase contact life by use of improved designs and materials have not been altogethersuccessful. Another disadvantage associated with these switching devices is that they are necessarily quite large and occupy a substantial space in the motor housing." -from another web site.

You can find replacement batteries on amazon, click here and take a look: Amazon com Black and Decker 24 0 Volt Lawn Mower Battery 90508011. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

Amazon com Black and Decker 24 0 Volt Lawn Mower...

amazon.com

Amazon com Black and Decker 24 0...

I have a CMM1000 which needs new batteries. I have pretty much figured out how to replace them, but I haven't found replacements yet. Please let me know where you found them! You need to remove the (black) top cover - there are 6 screws involved. 2 screws are in recesses toward the front on top. You will probably need to remove debris to access these. They are Torx type, but if you don't have Torx bits, they have a slot which works with a flat head screwdriver if you're careful.  The next 2 screws are toward the back down at either side. These are also the Torx type and they have star washers. The last 2 screws are up in the charging area. They are regular phillips and they attach to the circuit board. With all screws removed the top cover will come free. Be gentle though - there are wires from the charging meter that are still attached. You have to maneuver the cover over the height adjustment handle, then flip it up to reveal the circuit board. Disconnect the red and black wires from the terminals marked "TB2 Fuel Gauge Red" and "TB3 Fuel Gauge Blk" The top is now free and can be set aside. There is a push-fit block of styrofoam which can be removed and set aside. You should now be able  access the battery terminals which can be removed with a nut driver or socket wrench.  There is a jumper wire also. Make a note of the polarity of all connections. At this point the old batteries should slide out from their styrofoam cradle (I haven't actually tried this yet).  From this point you will reverse the steps to install your new batteries. Hope this helps.

cmm1200 switch in the handle problem. switch contact maybe burnt out. parts are available. see dewaltservicenet.com or toolpartsdirect.com for diagarm etc.

the connection the are not right. top left side is for white wire.buttom left side is for red wire. top right side is connected to black wire from motor. buttom right side is for is going to the
extension terminal. good luck

This is likely a code from the computer system on the CMM1200 that the batteries no longer hold a charge. If you have a voltmeter, a "quick test" is to put the batteries on the charger for at least 8 hours and then test the DC voltage of the batteries. Test each battery separately by taking the cables off and testing the battery at the positive and negative lead. If they read less than 11.5 volts, you need a new battery set. You can get replacements from www.batteryinternational.com/universal-battery-ub12180-batteries-by-brand-universal-battery-nb.html. The model you have requires two of these batteries. Hope this helps.

All set, figured it out.

1. Push the mower down to its lowest mowing position.
2. Turn it up on its right side, so the left side is in the air.
3. The existing flap is held in place with a glob of glue at the left (now top) end. Remove the glue by whatever means you like. I "chiseled" at it with taps from a flap-blade screwdriver and hammer.
4. Now you can slide the remnants of the old flap out and slide the new one in. You'll have to bend it slightly even with the mower in its lowest position to get it past the wheel, but it shouldn't be close to breaking.
5. Replace the glob of glue with whatever you have handy that plays well with plastic and rubber. By coincidence I already had DAP Alex Ultra 230 Black loaded in my caulk gun - worked fine.

Searched and searched for this, finally found someone's description on an amazon review of the replacement battery. Reprinted below. Worked for me!

1. First use compressed air to blow out the six screw holes that secure the cover to the chassis. If, like me, you don't have a compressor, just tip the mower over so gravity will allow the dead grass and chaff that fills up the screw wells over time to fall out as you dislodge the stuff with a screw driver or a stick.

2. After the debris is removed, use a T20 Torx driver to loosen the screws. There is a slot in the cover screws that allow the use of a blade screwdriver, but you'll need the T20 driver to remove the battery anyway. The screws need not be removed from the screw wells in the cover, but they have to disengage from the chassis.

3. The cover should easily lift away from the chassis once the screws are loose. Expect to find a lot of grass clippings and cobwebs on the motor housing and the rest of the chassis that could benefit from some cleaning while you've got the cover off.

4. As mentioned before, a T20 driver will be required to remove the two screws securing the battery bracket. No slots in these screws. Make note of the positive and negative terminals of the old battery so you can make the same connections to the new one.

5. My replacement battery was smaller (not as tall) as the original. I made a shim out of some old cardboard to allow the bracket to be sufficiently tight. Without the shim, the bracket screws were too long. A piece of 1x wood might work as well, but I liked the give in the cardboard to get a snug fit with the bracket.

6. Replace the cover, tighten the screws, and you should be good to go.