20 Most Recent Dewalt 18 Volt Compact Drill Kit - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Likely your battery has reached end of life. Replace, but first check that your charger is working.

Many people run the battery way down and this destrpoys them. As soon as the speed drops noticeably you must charge the battery.

The old thought of discharging completely is STUPID. The idea was to avoid a memory problem of NiCad batteries. The problem is one cell goes dead first and then the others REVERSE charge it if tool is continued to be used. The cell shorts due to the reverse charging and then will NEVER take a charge again.

Hello,
I would advice you to go to where you bought your drill kit and go to their service desk, explain your situation,  and ask for a copy. They should have all the info on their computer system.

Good Luck

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/servicenet_home.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 Go to this site type in the model info and you should be able to view a parts diagram. The clutch is not in the front of the drill by the clutch adjuster. It is behind the transmission, in front of the motor and is actuated by a rod from the clutch adjusting ring to the clutch assembly. You should be able to remove the four screws holding the "nose" on, remove all the parts in their respective sub assemblies without much issues.

Do the same in reverse, if possible. Also, you could use two channel locks as most of those chucks have two rings, the narrow one towards the drill itself being attached to the motor. However, make sure the screw inside the chuck is tight first -- I've seen those back out and block chucks open.

you can go to the tip section and there are detailed instructions on how to remove. Secondly if the chuck itself is unthreading in reverse it is because the screw is missing or possibly the head is broken off. Let me know and I will try and give you some more help

yes you can as long as the thread size is the same, but keep in mind that the gears might not be able to handle the larger bits and you will shorten the life of the tool possibly.

Hello,

The problem I have seen is the trigger. I know it's a pain, but that was the the problem with mine......The trigger has an integrated regulator and Rheostat that controls speed and voltage and when she goes,...........That's it! Sorry.....

Dr. Phil

Put the bit in a vise and try hittig the reverse button.If that does not work the tap the three lock tabs in the end of the chuck with a punch and you should be able to undo the chuck.

does the chuck unscrew?? If so what you need to do is tighten the chuck again and look for the chuck retaining screw that locks it into place, you should be able to buy one at any local tool repair center. they are left hand thread. if the jaws are releasing then the chuck might have to be replaced. Let me know if I misunderstood the problem and I will try again.

Hello TH Bond, With the DeWalt cordless drills, the weak link is that the leads tend to burn (melt) off at the motor brushes when the drill is overloaded. It's happened to mine now about 3-4 times, so much so I've had to replace the wires after they got too short to put a new terminal back on them!

The only other issue is that the trigger mechanism could have failed due to a heavy load while drilling. But before you spend the bucks on that, you can easily check to see if it's the wiring or the trigger assembly.

Before you take anything apart, make sure the top speed selector is at #1, and the torque setting set to the lowest setting. (makes it easier to remember what things were set at, if you have the speed selector come out of the drill body)

Now lay the drill on it's side and with the battery out of the tool, remove all the screws that hold the two halves together. Take off the top half and look at the back end of the tool to see if the wires going to the motor are in good condition and not burned off the motor brush tabs. If they are, you can either resolder them or recrimp them (DeWalt used different methods for different models) with a new .25 female terminal (any auto or hardware store will have them)

You can give the repair a quick check (IF you are careful) by putting in the battery into the lower drill body and holding the drill motor, gently squeeze the trigger and see if the tool runs. If so, you've fixed it and can put the drill back together.

If the wires are good, then it's the trigger assembly and you'll have to get one from either a DeWalt Authorized service center or distributor that carries repair parts, as these are sealed units and can't be fixed (I've tried). There are some available online too, if you wish to do the replacement yourself, which is a straight forward unplug and plug operation, now that the tool is apart.
The last thing to check is the brushes might have contaminated the armature of the motor. Clean it out any "carbon" residue with compressed air and wipe down the armature of the motor and check the brushes to make sure they're not worn down to the point of needed to be replaced. If they are close to the spring (box) retainer, get new ones from any Authorized DeWalt service location, or online.
Reassemble, making sure the speed selector is in the slots on the tool body and everything else lines up correctly. Install the screws and you're back in business.

Hope you find this Very Helfpul and best regards!
Merry Christmas!

Had the same problem on mine. Remove the chuck, then remove the snap ring on the back of the chuck( carefull, the housing will fall out once the ring is removed), on the side of the chuck you'll find a cam and small odd shaped spring held in by two cylender pins, on mine the spring had a gap in it and I just spread the gap to about twice the size in was and put everything back together and it has worked fine ever sence. Hope it works for you.

use antifreeze oil maybe stuck by rush be care full easy to lose its connection the plastic chuck to steel main chuck.

WD-40 works well on most power tools for freeing up stuck parts without damaging the drill. It's also good for displacing any water that may have gotten in it.

take 2 pr of large channel locks and grab both sections of the chuck, on section in each channel lock, and use this to break it loose

These tools have panetry gearboxs to give maximum torque foe lightweight gearing. A common problem with the older DeWalt drills was the gear selector legs coming adrift. This is (potentially) an easy fix. First of all, the obvious stuff. Remove the battery and press the trigger to release any static/stored power. Undo all the screws and seperate the two halves. Try to keep all the internals in the back half like this... http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mendingshed/DW958mainimage1.gif

Now check the metal legs coming down from the gear selector slide. They should be sitting through the sides of the gearbox, and located into the sides of a ring gear. They used to pop out of this gear which would stop it being pushed fully into position.

try getting 2 pr of channel locks and grabbing each part of the chuck with them to try and get it to break open

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dc759-type-18v-cordless-drill-parts-c-1009_1162_2837.html

Here is the parts diagram. I hate to say it but I always have problems getting the chuck out of the clutch/transmission without breaking something. I havent figured out how to keep the spindle from moving while I try to turn the chuck. Sorry if this doesnt help much.

When you put the battery in the charger, does the light go on? The charger has lights to indicate whether the battery is fully charged or not. If it is dead when you put it in the charger and remains that way after one hour, you can be pretty sure that the battery is dead. If there are NO lights on the charger, plug it into a different outlet and recheck. Not using the drill for long periods of time is really not good for the battery. The drill is probably ok, but the charger or battery could be the problem.

I hope I am understanding your question properly, if not, leave a comment. This drill *** a "keyless" chuck. If you look down into where the drill bit goes, there are metal pieces inside the black nose of the tool. Those metal parts are what holds the bit into place. The drill bit slides into the hole at the front of the drill (where it fell out from), Put the drill bit back in and then grasp the black tip (right below where you put the drill bit in). Directly underneath where you put your first hand, hold onto the piece directly below the upper part. Turn the top piece right and left and it tightens or loosens the mechanism that holds the bit in place. Give it a firm turn to make sure it is tight.

Just happened to me. Oil the chuck and let it sit and soak. Very gently, put the dril into a vice to secure it. With a pair of adjustable pliers (somthing that you can get a good grip with) attempt to work the chuck free. It works but just be gentle so you dont break anything