Behringer EUROPOWER EP2500 Amplifier - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I suggest you download the manual at - http://www.behringer.com/assets/ep2500_p0183_m_en.pdf The answer to your question depends on how you want to run the unit and the manual gives very good directions.

Unless you are a qualified audio service technician, you should refer repair of this unit to an authorized Behringer service depot. The capacitors you refer to can store lethal amounts of electrical charge. Also, Behringer service manuals and schematics are notoriously difficult to get.

when you turn on the AMP and the red light comes on give the amp 2 seconds and turn it back on the red light should turn off. That is what I do with the amps at my church and it works for me, I hope that this works for you too.

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Behringer Power Amps has the input lines on the back, it has either XLR balanced and 1/4 unbalanced inputs, now what are you trying to ask?

They wouldn't blow the fuse. You are looking at the main devices that power the channel. If you put an ohmmeter on their terminals (assuming they are transistors) then it will show like you have touched the two test probes together. If it does replace the part(s).

These days volume and tone controls are outputted via a "chip". Sadly it sounds like yours has failed and needs replacing.

If you are pulling the transistor that drives the final and the problem goes away, is the driver bad? Is the power supply a multi channel isolated unit? Could the channel for that side be bad?

You will need to replace the large capacitors in the power supply it sounds like they are letting the 50hz mains hum in.

Hi,you can download if from here.Thanks,gylacz

Hi,if it is enough you can get the schematic diagram of this amplifier.Thanks.gylacz

It seems to me that you have a bad transistor, T14 or T13 to be precise. T14 most certainly is in short circuit or its companion T13 (T14 is a small signal NPN transistor whereas T13 is a small signal PNP transistor). I just fixed one with the same symptoms as yours. You should be able to measure T14 collector voltage against ground (metal chassis) and the reading must be very close to +15VDC. Also, measure T14 emitter voltage to ground and the reading must be very close to -15VDC. If any of those voltages is compromised, you will not be powering the amplifier's operational amplifiers (U4, U5, U6) right. Check T14 and T13 with your multimeter and replace them as needed. Also, keep in mind that after replacing any of those transistors you will be required to readjust the BIAS current for your amplifier's drivers, which by the way, is a very easy task to accomplish. You know your BIAS current is misadjusted when your output transistors get really hot even under no signal conditions or when your amplifier distorts at very low volume levels or on high frequencies amplifying. To adjust the BIAS current for channel 1's driver transistors, wait until the amplifier has cooled down, locate and adjust VR3 until you read 80 mV across R2. To adjust BIAS current for channel 2's driver transistors, locate VR6 and adjust it until you read 80mV across R106. You need to wait until the amplifier cools down to set BIAS current right, If the output transistors' heat sinks get hot before reaching proper BIAS current adjustments, wait until they cool down to average room temperature and retake BIAS current adjustment. Once both channels BIAS currents have been readjusted, apply a thin coat of thick nail polish to the sides of VR3 and VR6 to keep vibration from misadjusting BIAS currents again... T14 goes down under severe BIAS currents shifting and it just makes me wonder as to why BEHRINGER does not apply a setting substance to VR3 and VR6 so they do not shift under sever vibration conditions, after all, almost any major amplifier manufacturer in the world does it. Good luck!

There are so many components that can fail that troubleshooting this can be an expensive problem.

HINT: Put a 150 Watt light bulb in series with the power going into to limit current for/during troubleshooting.

Go through and compare the voltages on the teo channels. If power amp transistors have failed, likely the driver transistors also are gone.

Testing components in-circuit is very dificult. Resistors are pretty reliable and usually show damage by discoloration.

Furhter use before repairing MAY cause further damage.

can you rephrase this question in English?I look forward to your reply

can you rephrase this question in English?

Depending on the age of the amp,there is a possibilty that the amp my have damaged lanes or tracks to the pre-amp section to the front of the amplifier.

Go to owners manual in the specifications page.Will show the impedance, you should mach the impedance output with the speakers,2,4, 8 Homs impedance and how many watts RMS or peak.

Post voltages on R64/R61then D68then T44and D76

What you may need is a Voltage converter ' Voltage Transformer ' step up and step down ...Connect the 220V line output to EP2500 And the 110V input to your 110V convenient outlet

Check R64/R61, D68, T44 and D76and associated components