20 Most Recent Hoshizaki Commercial Freezer KM-500MAH Questions & Answers

First what you want to do is to clean it really good and then go from there

go to their web site. lots of good info. too much to get what you need here. lots to concider when installing. self contained? remote condenser? location of unit. and lots more. tech support 1-800-233-1940 may shed some light too

check the float switch to see if it needs cleaning, it may be stuck.

sounds like a bad water valve. I say this assuming that the unit is not a water cooled unit. any further info would be helpful.

This is a "defrost too long" code. Look for bad thermistor or low refrigerant charge first as these are the easiest and most likely place to start.

If you are referring to the ice not clearing the evaporator plates, usually the defrost cycle is too short. Check that by watching the machine and when it goes into the harvest mode, see if all the ice comes off. If not, lengthen the cycle.

if your are referring to a harvest cycle not clearing the plates, there may not be enough heat to clear the plates or the defrost cycle is too short. Usually the first thing to check. start there my friend.

Is it making ice? Frost on this line is not that uncommon as it is colder than the air around it. Make sure you have good water flow over the evap plates. machine may just need a good chemical cleaning.

Check your "Bin Stat" first as most all machine have power sent to the control board via this control. Start there.

(Quated From Hoshizaki Technical Bulletin)
An alarm code of 3 beeps
every 3 seconds means that the control board has shut
down on the 60 minute freeze cycle back up timer.

The “E” control board has a 60 minute timer that starts at
the beginning of the freeze cycle. If the float switch fails
to open and start the next harvest within 60 minutes, the
board will automatically start the harvest cycle. If this
occurs in two consecutive cycles, the control board will
shut the unit down on the manual reset, freeze cycle
back- up timer. The yellow fault LED marked “60 min.”
will illuminate. This safety is designed to help prevent a
freeze up of the evaporator.

Once you have identified the 60 minute alarm, there are
several things to check. Reset the alarm by depressing
the white reset button to the right of the fault LED’s.
This must be done with the power “ON”. Now check the
float switch to see if it is stuck in the up position. A stuck
float can occur if scale is present on the reed switch
shaft inside the housing. To check it, drain the water
reservoir, unplug the black float switch connector (K5)
from the control board and check it with an ohm meter
for a closed switch (zero ohms). If the float switch is
sticking, clean it with ice machine cleaner or replace it as
necessary.
An inlet water valve which is slowly leaking by during the
freeze cycle can cause a 60 minute alarm. If the inlet
water valve is stuck wide open, it is unlikely that any ice
will form on the evaporator. Check for a slow leak by
allowing the unit to cycle into the freeze cycle and
disconnecting the hose at the outlet of the water valve. If
water leaks by during the freeze cycle, the water valve
diaphragm is likely damaged or the small diaphragm bleed
port is clogged with scale. Clean the bleed port or replace
the diaphragm or entire water valve as necessary.

(I Recommend to get a refrigeration tech for this part).

Another possibility is a refrigeration system problem. You
should use normal refrigeration diagnosis procedures to
check for one of these problems. If the thermostatic
expansion valve is not feeding properly or the refrigerant
charge is low, the evaporator will not form ice as it should
and a long freeze cycle will occur. This could also be the
result of the hot gas valve not closing completely during
the freeze cycle or if the compressor valves are weak or
inefficient. An inefficient compressor however, will
usually show up first on the KM model through a longer
than normal harvest cycle. This is because of cooler
than normal discharge gas. Use proper refrigeration
practices to repair a refrigeration system problem.
While these are not the only reasons for a 60 minute
freeze cycle, they are the most common and should be
checked to resolve a 3 beep/yellow fault LED alarm.

Most likely(50% of the times) Your Ice machine need a real cleaning. not just run clean cycle with ice machine cleaner. every 6 month call HVAC-R guys - machine will last half time longer if u schedule proper maintenance with them. I have seen It all: people try to call "friend", or someone who "knows" how this machines work. Real clean would take up to 3 hours for people who know what they doing. Here is one of my videos, when 3 beeps - long freeze cycle is not common and all others would offer You to get a new Ice Machine. Bill to the owner was 950$, New Machine 3450$ plus labour to install 600$.

You are not getting enough water.Change the water filter,if it has one,and check the water inlet valve to see if it is plugged

Might need to clean float switch, or water inlet valve bypassing water. Deep clean Hoshizaki.

Most likely bin Thermostat. But check if power correct to the unit

float switch is not repairable, You need to replace it. Might be just clogged.

You might need to deep clean Your machine. Might be float switch clogged.

KM says this is an ice maker. Reset button is on the control board. Board is in compartment on the right side where the power switch is located. Remove 2 screws and remove cover by sliding forward. Watch for wires, do this carefully. On the board, up at the top, is a small, white button. With power on, push the button.

Something is holding your Ice Slab at the bottom from your description.
Some causes are
1 Dirty - scaled up evap, or just dirty w muddy covering,
2 the vacuum breaking holes are stopped up If it is making a sla whith the evaporator warm no ice take a flashlight and hold it where its shining to the back of the evap and look for the light on th cube forming slots next to the ones your shining the light into Upper corners of each hole must be open.
3 The slab is freezing uneve most like cause is a stopped up distributor tube at the top thats feeding the water down the evaporator.
4 On some models thay had a closer fitting water curtian (the cover in front of the slab) and the top of the sheet touched this and caused the slab to stay uprite and continue the "slide" forward.If your curtian is of the older style and has metal hooks on it with verticle slots n the curtian look at the slots and see if the slots are worn making the whole curtian slide down ward I have seen this several times.4B On some older models there is also a plactic coated wire diverter on the bottom infront of the evaporator. If the palstic coating is gone or the bottom or is not even, the slab could hang up there. 4C If you have the newer plastic pins make sure thay are seated in the mounting properly.
5 Nickel plating could be comming off (any copper color on the lower 1/3 of the evaporator?).
6 I have seen some of the horizontal plates them selves be loose and not in flush try pushing and pulling on them especially the ones at the bottom. ANy that are loose and comming out is your problem.
This lengthy extrapolation is by no means all of the possibilities but most of the common ones. If this helps you solve your proble please rate me accordingly. If it leads you to the correct and completed repair WOULDNT WE MAKE A TEAM?? And Good luck to you.