Well for many of us we could only hope for this problem. Usually the darn things won't make ice.
It is likely the plastic tab connecting to the metal arm has broken at the connection internally at the switch. If the arm will not stay up in the retain off position then this is surely the case. When manually cycling there is usually a distinct click can be heard within the travel indicating the switch has activated. No click no off as the arm moves up as the bin fills..
If the arm will not stay up in the locked off position then the only recourse is to replace the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
If the arm will stay up and there is no click within the travel it is almost certain that the unit is not repairable and would need to be replaced. It is possible that the metal arm has become disengaged and could be installed?
Refrigerator Repair Replacing the Ice Maker Shut Off Arm Whirlpool Part...
Hope this has helped?
Hello Jim;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I would professionally rank Amana at the top of the list for reliability and low maintenance.
If you read your owners manual it states your unit must be stored in a controlled environment. Otherwise your warrantee is void.
I have made service calls on units that were less that a year old. They were in a garage (Not controlled environment) and the warrantee was voided.
What happens is the drastic changes of temperature from winter to summer expands and contracts the brazed seal system joints and these joint leak.
Also, what happens is the condensate from humidity corrodes the electrical components as well as the control boards.
You can call a local service company to check out what needs to be replace. You are probably look at a $350.00 + service call, if it can be restored.
Hello Jim;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
This is a tough call.
I put Amana at the top of my list followed by Kitchen Aid
I put Hotpoint at the top of the list as well. I just think it is over priced.
The year of manufacture is on a label on the inside liner in your fresh food section.
I have had the fewest service calls on both these units. Between Samsung & LG I have had about 60% of my service calls. GE and Kenmore are good general for the price units.
In cases like this where the ice maker does not refill with water indicates the water control valve on the ice maker side is defective and will need to be replaced. This part fits your refrigerator=> W10408179 Water Inlet ValveAPPLIANCE911
Sounds to me like the compressor is not running that could indicate a problem with start relay and the run capacitordoes your Amana refrigerator have a model number?
You may could place the refrigerator into diagnostics if you could provide a model number. Every manufacturer has a different OHM reading for their thermistors. There is a chart but you need to know what model number you have.
Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
Measures temperature to send information to the computer so it regulates temperatures in freezer and fresh food compartments of your fridge
http://appliance911seabreeze.com/
It should work with the filter removed because of a automatic bypass built into Amana refrigerators but sometimes even new filters or copy cat filters will not work at all because they have a defective area where they connect to your water system.
http://appliance911seabreeze.com/
Two big difference possibilities here...
1. Compressor/refrigerant failure... Catastrophic & prohibitively expensive...!!
2. Since every Amana I've seen in the last half of my life-time has been "self" Defrosting ... I'm going right out on that limb to say...
Your freezer COULD be totally blocked from freezing and cooling by a massive glob of FROST in the bottom...
Trouble shooting is not very hard... and the two most common failure parts *(defrost heater & defrost thermostat) are NOT overly expensive
Nor is the third element... the DEFROST TIMER... but I have every confidence you AMANA has a logic board rather than a mechanical timer (the good news is... the logic boards are pretty robust and enjoy an excellent reputation.
Since your REFIGERATOR/FREEZER is not working anyway...
power it off
open all the doors
empty and clean the exterior...
Look closely into the freezer side to see if there is visible frost build-up.
If there is... prepare for (a deluge) more water than your defrost drain pan might be able to handle.
Surround the unit with towels... and get out the WET/DRY vacuum if you have one. Air it completely out and make sure it is dry.
A room air fan would be great to rush things along.
Avoid using any heaters (although it would seem clever it can ruin perfectly good door seals and warp interior plastic surfaces
If a lot of water DID come out... you can get your model number and start ordering those parts
First cheapest part to try... defrost thermostat.
If you want quick cost effective service STAY AWAY from SEARS PARTS.
The cutest exact replacement <plug-in>part I have found was from appliancepartspros: they even designed in the own test port... because the AMANA DEFROST thermostat seems to attract a lot of testing... (big hint here).
Be safe... water and electricity are a not-so-good combination.
Happy hunting!
If the compressor runs all the time, you have a refrigerant leak. This is not a do it yourself type of repair. A repair person needs to fix it. If the refrigerator is about 15 years old or older, buy a new refrigerator.
Most of the time when the strip is hot it is due to the condenser coils being clogged. If you pull the kick plate off under the door, you should find some coils with dust, hair, and other various debris that has to be cleaned off the coils. These coils can become insullated with dust bunnies and not allow the freon to release enough of the heat as it flows through the coils. The coils actually run through the cabinet where the metal strip is getting hot. Break out a vacuum and clean off the coils and then give it a day and the unit should begin operating properly again. If you can't find the coils underneath remove the back access panel and they should be located to the right of your fan. Also make sure the fan itself is running. The fan is what moves the air flow under the fridge to cool the coils, if it is not running it can cause the same issue.