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Amana ARB1917CSR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers
How do I replace my freezer light
An owners manual I found online says:
Freezer
- Pinch rear tabs on light cover and pull straight down.
- Remove light bulb.
- Replace bulb with appliance bulb no greater than 40 watts.
- Insert front tabs of light cover into freezer liner and snap rear portion over light assembly until rear tabs engage.
---
The manual illustrates the bulb is behind a plastic grille right by the temperature control knob.
The refrigerator often freeze food
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Hi,
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator
do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other
things that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the
last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start
trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling
a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
heatman101
Can the door swing be changed?
Yes the door can be changed to open from the opposite side, there are removal plugs that need to be removed from the opposite side and just change all the hardware from one side to the other, change the middle hinge first and put on the bottom door first, after its is mounted you can put the bottom part of the top door on the hinge and last the top hinge, and just make a few minor adjustments.
My Amana refrigerator is not cooling top or bottom
check against the back wall to see if the fan is runningif it is check to see if compressor is running and should be warm to the touch if all that is running uve probably got a freon leak and unit is low on freon
Amana arb1917cc fridge not cooling no sounds from
Good day,
If the lights work, and nothing at all is running, then it is either the defrost timer stuck in defrost, or the main thermostat in the freezer compartment has failed.
Check the timer first. With the freezer control in the freezer compartment set to at least 4 or higher, look for a small hole in the fresh food compartment. It is in the roof (top) of the compartment almost half way back.
With a small screw driver, turn the shaft of the timer clockwise at least a 1/4 of a turn. If it starts, then the timer is bad and needs replaced.
If no luck then it would be the thermostat in the freezer compartment that failed.
P.S. As with all machines, a broken wire could be the problem but on your model, is extremely rare.
Fridge not cooling...
This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that
the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater not
functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the
following components:
1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be
"stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle.
May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.
2)
Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured to the
refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer
compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it
never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.
3)
Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater
secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the
defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is
burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on
the evaporator coil.
4) Fan. The fan is located near the
evaporator coil. if the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the
fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not blown
into the fridge compartment
- where the thermostat is detecting a high temperature.
5)
Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue
for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil
to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it
probably needs to be done anyway.
Most of these steps will
require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be
careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant
lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the
fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, and a pot of hot water
inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.
Freezer working but Fridge not cooling...
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if
you have one or the mechanical linkages.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
Defrost not working
Since you've determined the heater is good, check the following items: Defrost timer in fresh food compartment (may not be advancing or the contacts may not be changing from open to close or vice versa), defrost terminator secured to the evaporator (may not sense a rising temperature)
Exploded parts diagram for your fridge:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5167592
Generic service manual for Amana bottom mount freezer / fridges:
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/S120_0R0.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/T120_0R0.pdf
I hope this helps!
Freezer coils were a block
an improperly sealing door gasket can cause that. Outside air will circulate past the coils and humidity in the air will condense and freeze there. Normal "defrost" generally cannot overcome that volume of ice. Additionally, the sensor on the coils if frozen in can prevent the compressor from coming on because it "thinks" the unit is cold enough.
Other problems can be from heater elements or defrost clock but that is far less frequent.
Not finding what you are looking for?
