20 Most Recent Kenmore 62622 Microwave Oven - Page 10 Questions & Answers

20A ceramic fuses (the most common) can be had locally in most grocery stores, hardware stores, home improvement centers, and big box or department stores.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on the floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches, or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat / thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

Accessing some components (especially the oven cavity thermostat) for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take off the outer cover.

To find helpful exploded view diagrams and get part numbers, you can just enter your full model number at the Sears parts site.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as 721.62622200. Check the tag on your unit.

But Sears parts can usually be obtained for far less here by entering either the part number.

When you enter your model number here, on the resulting page look to the right for the blue "View manuals" button. Click there.



That Sears-related site has many free manuals. While the manuals they list there are all free, they will ask you to register.

Many times, the owner's manual will also have the installation instructions inside, too.

If yours is not listed there for free, you would have to order it through the Sears parts site.

We have the overall schematic diagram for model 721.62622200 here and here. It may be close enough to yours to help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The most common problems of microwave oven are the HV capacitor, HV diode and lastly the magnetron which is the main part of M O. check the capacitor and diode first, if its okay, then you have a decision to make. replace the magnetron or the whole unit. magnetron are costly

"d" may mean demo mode. The first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power outlet for 10 minutes, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.

hold your finger on the locked button till the light goes out

get one minute epoxy and glue the handle.

Test the high voltage capacitor, the rectifier diode.or the magnetron. If all this are fine, test the control board.

If it additionally does not spin and no light, then check also the door switch and fuse.

The diode and capacitors can br tested. The capacitor must be allowed discharge before testing, or you risk to get electrocuted, even if power is off. Capacitors can get discharged by shorting their two contacts.
Replace the magnetron if the checks and all of the high voltage component tests are good, but the unit still does not heat.

All locations, and description of this parts can be located using the diagram here: Counter top.

Parts must be tested to find out what is wrong.

Remember that microwaves are potentially dangerous devices if not repaired properly, the job must be done by a competent person.
A microwave energy leakage test must always be performed when the oven is serviced for any reason.

Regarding parts, contact the seller here to purchase parts. (here in UK).

Sounds like the magnetron has failed. This is the component that produces the microwaves that heats the food.

The cost of the magnetron is about 95% of the cost of a microwave oven. Most people don't, for this reason, replace the magnetron, they replace the whole oven which is probably what you will end up doing.

There is a possibility that the circuit that provides power to the magnetron is faulty and you need to take it apart, find the proper electrical leads and test them with a volt meter. To do this you have to remove it from its mounting and take it apart. It is a fairly lengthy process however.


Benjamin

Most likely the circuit breaker tripped or the fuse blew. A 1000 watt microwave is using 2/3 of the power available on a typical household circuit of 1500 watts. If anything else is plugged into that circuit u can have a problem. Just reset the breaker or replace the fuse and u will be up and running. if it happens alot you should consider a dedicated circuit for your microwave only.

Have you try to unplug and then plug back in?Do you power on the unit?If not unplug and take the back off and replace the fuse in it.

SEARS
Part # 4713-001013

chances are your magnatron quit on you and you may be better off getting a new one.

F-9 means the inverter board has failed. A bad magnatron can also cause this code. Recommend replace the Mag. and inverter board.

If this is and Over the Range micro, the exhaust fan needs to run ANYTIME the cooktop is on. They make things for quantity and not quality, so the plastic has little tolerance for heat. Running the fan, diminishes heat off the front of the unit. Also, the micro MUST be at leat 24" off the cooktop.

The F-9 code indicates that there's an inverter board failure. A bad magnetron will also make it think the board is bad. The inverter board takes the place of the High Voltage Transformer, Capacitor and Diode which other models have. Parts and labor is probably around 300-400. It's not too hard to do, Pulling the micro off the wall is the hardest part.

There is fuse in the back somewhere around where the cord comes into the unit.My guess the fuse is blown

In order to have the correct operation of the door latch mechanism and latch switches.

1. Ensure correct adjustment of the Door and the Latch switches.
2. Wipe off any dirt or grease around the door key where it touches the latch switched and door hooks with a soft cloth. Maintaining the smooth movement of the latch mechanism and switches etc�
3. After replacement of the latch mechanism and/or Latch switches. Make sure to confirm a smooth operation of these parts are in order.

to view the exact diagram of how to do this manually just click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/micro8.html

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The door switches are designed to prevent the unit from running while the door is open. You probably have a blown fuse, and it's a white or dark grey ceramic fuse of 15A or 20A, available from local big box stores or appliance parts stores. The fuse is usually located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel, or mounted in the same area as the door switches. Also, I'm really curious how the door switch got stuck while cleaning? That sounds scary...