Kenmore 66469 / 66462 / 66464 Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, Sorry to tell you but Dont use this again you need to buy a new one or second hand one. Please leave me feed back: Malcolm Campbell, Thanks.

Most microwave ovens are like computers, they lock up and ocassionally need to be "re-booted", or re-powered. 1. Simply unplug the oven, then wait about 10 seconds, plug it back, and check to see if has unlocked itself. If not, continually press the clear or reset button. If that doesn't help, you'll have to get the model number and manufacturer from the label inside the microwave oven.

If it's like most above-the-range microwaves, there will be 2 or 3 screws holding it from above, inside the cabinet While supporting the unit from below, remove screws. The rear of the unit is supported by hooking onto a bracket that is screwed to the wall behind it. The rear needs to be lifted, then the unit should pull away from the wall. Requires some muscle.

Door switch

you must try this:God bless youIf you are unable to adjust the power level, there may be a defective triac or a problem with the circuit board.

1. Controller is confusedA power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
2. Defective Interlock switchesThis can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
3. CleaningCleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave.

The magnetron looks like the below imagetesting is not easy as it's a high voltage component and can be dangerous to work around.Here is a link for a page with some very helpful information about testing magnetrons.LINK:

Hello,

Check the turntable guide to make sure it is lined up properly and that there is no debris caught in it. You may need to re-align or clean your turntable guide.

Cleaning and realigning a turntable guide;

Remove your glass turntable cooking tray from your microwave. Gently wash with warm soapy water to remove any debris. Next remove the turntable guide and clean it in the same manner, with warm soapy water. Pay particular attention to the turntable rollers. There could be spilled food particles caught in the rollers, hindering the rollers' movement. Also, gently cleanse the internal cavity of your microwave, paying special attention to the area below the turntable.

With the internal cavity, turntable, and turntable guide completely clean and dry, return the parts to your microwave. First place the turntable guide on the bottom of the microwave. There should be a circular groove in the bottom of the microwave cavity keeping the turntable guide in place. Follow the guide with the turntable cooking tray. Carefully place the glass tray over the turntable guide and onto the drive bushing. The drive bushing should fit neatly into the grooves on the bottom of your glass cooking tray. It may take some adjusting before the tray will sit properly onto the drive bushing.

Test your microwave after this thorough cleaning and realigning in order to determine whether this has solved your problem. DO NOT run your microwave with nothing in it.

CAUTION: Your microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. We strongly suggest you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair.

Also, Examine the plastic drive bushing the turntable tray sits on. It may have become worn, or even may have split in two;

Drive bushing replacement

Inspect the plastic drive bushing located below your microwave oven's turntable tray. There may be some debris blocking the tray's range of motion. Clean away any blockage you find, and then test your microwave to see if this has cleared up the problem. DO NOT run your microwave with nothing in it.

However, if upon your inspection, you notice that the plastic drive bushing below the turntable tray is worn and/or broken, you will need to have the bushing replaced. Consult with a certified and experienced appliance repair technician. Replacing a drive bushing is a lengthy and involved process that the average layman should not perform.

Good luck.
Walesarumi

It sounds like a failed membrane keypad.

On some models, you have to buy a separate keypad.

I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved. It's here.

In other cases, you can replace the whole control panel frame assembly, which comes with a ney keypad already on it. This runs more, but it's much simpler.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Then you unplug the keypad (as per the photo below) and move the circuit board into your frame.



Some connectors on the relays have a lock:



You can find helpful exploded views and order parts from the Sears Parts Direct Web site.

That model number (721.66460400) is not showing up in my search. Please check it again.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!any capacitors are discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

you can check fuse inside ok or not.
High voltage diod and capacitor OK or not.

micro oven can hold a dangerous amount of electric charge (15000V) for 15-30 minutes even after unplug.

so be careful
go for professional technician.

Hi,

if it does not power up, then it means its having a power problem. it might have worked fine in the past, but that's electronics for you. Power surge, irregular power supply, excess power supply, etc can affect the unit thereby not making it to power on.

This unit must have a power supply board in it where power enters from the mains. A capacitor, fuse, diode, etc may have been defective on the power board and maybe that's why its not making the unit turn on. There might also be some disconnection or something, inside the unit which is not making it to power on.

To actually find out what's wrong, you need to disassemble the unit with a screw driver and check what's wrong. You will be needing a meter in order to test the components on the power board, once you detect any bad component, you can make necessary replacement at any electronics accessories store withing our vicinity. This is the only way by which you can detect the problem.

Of course, testing the power board with a meter will require someone that has the ability. So it you can't, then you might be needing the help of a repairman or you can call a friend that has the ability to help you out.

I wish you the best of luck.

ther is a high voltage generator to generate enough power to the magnetron to produce microwaves, it was probably ARCHING voltage to the body of the oven due to a faulty insulator and the paint caught on fire... as for using it well DON'T it is not safe, and will cost more to repare than a new one

Sorry!

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 on high resistance range for short circuit, the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

When the high voltage microwave is energized, its magnetic field pulls the right side of the oven cover inward.

When the oven is manufactured, and rubber bumper is glued to the transformer.

Over the years the glue can break loose, allowing the thump to recur.

It's safe, just a little startling.

Push your hand against the right side as you start it and see if that muffles it.

If so, that's what's happening.

There is a fuse under the cover, but replacing it might not solve your problem. If a fuse blows, there won't be any power to the oven at all. You don't say one way or the other, so I don't know if there is any sign of life. If the display is lit, the fuse is still good and changing it is unnecessary. If the oven is completely dead, the fuse is likely blown but the problem will be more than just the bad fuse.

You mentioned a loud pop, which is usually not a good thing. This is normally because some component has failed, causing the fuse to blow. In most cases this part is the magnetron tube, which is the microwave source. Other parts can go bad as well, but the magnetron is very common.

It's possible to troubleshoot and repair a microwave oven, but they are dangerous devices to work on. Lethal voltages are exposed with the cover off, and improper repairs can lead to excessive microwave leakage. It's best to have a professional check the oven and give an estimate for the repair if you want to keep it. It might be more economical to replace the oven, though. They are quite inexpensive now (in my area, a 900-watt Emerson countertop model was on sale for $40 last week), so you might wind up spending more on parts and labor than you would on a new oven.

Still, if you want to try replacing the fuse, just be careful not to touch any connections and MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE OVEN UNPLUGGED before you do anything. I don't think any special screws are used on this model, although some ovens have tamper-resistant screws to discourage people from opening them. If you run into those, drivers are commonly available now.

Good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!

What usually happens to make the plate break or shatter is heat build up in one place, caused by spillage of food stuffs that have "welded" themselves to the plate or a scratch on the plate allowing water to enter and when it gets hot explodes the plate.
There, from what you have explained and the information you have supplied, no reason to doubt the machine. A new plate and it should work again with no problem.
Hope that puts your mind at rest.

Head over to the manufacture's website.

www.searspartsdirect.com

Typically - they have a SUPPORT section that you enter your full model number in, and you can download the manual for free.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

You can remove them using using a T20H Torx type or GTXH20-100 screwdriver. If the correct tool is not available, there are several ways to remove the screws:

- Use a hammer and a small punch or similar tool to knock out the middle post of the screw, then use a standard T20 Torx bit to remove the screws. (Use safety glasses).

- Insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver (such as a jeweler’s type) into the slot between the post and the edge, tap the screwdriver firmly with a hammer to loosen the screw, grip the screwdriver with pliers, and remove the screw.

- Use a hacksaw or Dremel tool to cut a slot in the head of the screw, then use a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the screws. (Use safety glasses).



Be sure to put all the screws back in the right holes, since some may be special grounding screws.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer

HI. Your symptoms are a strong indication of Magnetron failure. This is the principal heating device, that is used to produce microwaves that , essentially, excite the water molecules in the food, thus, producing the heating effect. When this device fails, generally, the unit will run, but not heat. This device is very fragile, and can injure you if you are not qualified to handle this type of component. There is a High Voltage Capacitor, that is used to help provide the necessary current for optimal Magnetron operation. This capacitor must be discharged correctly. If not, you could risk serious injury, during the repair, if it is accidental touched.

The Magnetron is linked to a cut-off fuse. If the magnetron becomes unstable, this fuse will shut the device down. It is standard procedure to have this fuse test for continuity. If the fuse has blown, this will be the culprit. Replace the fuse. Now, if the fuse continues to show continuity, this will confirm that the Magnetron has failed. I would advise to inspect the Capacitor, and HV diode for visible burn marks, or swollen top(Cap).

Access can be ac hived to these parts by removing the outside cabinet screws. Once the screws are removed, the cover can be removed, as well. Once the cover is removed, the internal components will be exposed for testing, and visual inspections.

WARNING: IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED SERVICE TECH, THIS WILL NOT BE A NOVICE DO IT YOURSELF JOB. MICROWAVES ARE VERY DANGEROUS, AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. I RECOMMEND TO CALL FOR SERVICE, IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH HANDLING THE CAPACITOR, OR MAGNETRON.

Had a few of these happen on this brans and model. All had to have new touchpads fitted. If you are handy it is a matter of opening case and unplugging and replugging and tightening a few screws. Cost about $110 for new pad.
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