Ok you ruled out fuses...btw on occasion even new in package are defective so make sure when you look at the fuse you see that it is not damaged and also make sure you did install it correctly (assuming you did) LIGHT ISSUE First off, the light bulb may be burnt out. For the surface light, you want to check your auto night light timer setting to make sure that is not set and interfering. However if you mean the interior light, that is mounted on the inside wall of the unit and I will address that later. Now if you mean the surface light, that is easier to access as it is at the bottom of your unit. To be on the safe side, turn power off at breaker box or unplug the unit. The door drops down on one side, you should be able to see a hinge usually on the left. Remove bulb and check it to see if it is blown. Also a great time to remove fan vents for standard cleaning. Ammonia and soapy water soak work great and a lil brushing afterwards with a thorough
rinse, but remember ammonia should be used in a well ventilated area, ammonia fumes are caustic. INTERIOR LIGHT To replace the oven light, first disconnect the power at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel or pull the plug. Remove the top grille by taking out the screw that holds it in place. Next, remove the single screw located above the door near the center of the oven that secures the light housing. Inspect bulb and replace if needed.
FAN ISSUE: Guessing you mean the exhaust fan not the inner-fan that circulates the heat? Do you hear any noise at all re: the fan? I do assume you are referencing the loud fan being part #51 on the diagram, it is the exhaust fan. Any humming or electrical sound at all? If you have a vent that goes out the roof (you'll see duct work generally in cabinet directly above the unit), on occasion a large insect (like those nasty flying cockroaches in the south) or small vermin can enter the chimney screen/vent and drop into the fan slats. However, usually you will hear an odd noise before the fan completely jams. Sounds like the control panel is working fine just but even when a wall switch works if a bulb is fried or fan jammed, you'll get nada. My suggestion...remove the unit, can be a pain, a two person job would be ideal and I for safe measures put a large empty box (one that is inches from the unit height wise) on top the stove to rest it on to regain strength before taking it over to a flat surface you can work on. The unit should be able to be lifted up and off the mount bracket. If you did the install you should remember how much fun that was getting the unit on the mount LOL :D
see the fan on the diagram...part #51http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/ge/JVM1190SY002_WW_1.gif
that's your exhaust fan. Only access is by un-mounting the unit. Has a few wires with simple connections...by chance do you know how to test coil resistance with a multimeter? It's a cheap meter can be purchased at local hardware for generally under $20.00. I'll stop here until you trouble shoot the above. Also know, ereplacementparts.com should also be able to offer you some assistance. You have nothing to lose, if all fails rumor has it with door removed and a lil spray paint and a few cute designs,you have one heck of an outside shelter for a cat to hide out amongst the shrubs. ;)
TEST COIL RESISTANCE:
A defective relay can result in a variety of symptoms: * A relay with its contacts welded (stuck) closed would result in the oven coming on as soon as the door is closed or the power being stuck on high no matter what the touchpad setting. * A relay that doesn't close (due to defective contacts or a bad coil) would result in no heat and possibly other things like the fan and turntable not working as well. If the relay is totally inoperative, test for voltage to the coil. If the voltage is correct, the relay may have an open coil. If the voltage is low or zero, the coil may be shorted or the driving circuit may be defective. If the relay makes a normal switching sound but does not correctly control its output connections, the contacts may be corroded, dirty, worn, welded closed, binding, or there may be other mechanical problems. Remove the relay from the circuit (if possible) and measure the coil resistance. Compare your reading with the marked or specified value and/or compare with a known working relay of the same type. An open coil is obviously defective but sometimes the break is right at the terminal connections and can be repaired easily. If you can gain access by removing the cover, a visual examination will confirm this. If the resistance is too low, some of the windings are probably shorted. This will result in overheating as well as no or erratic operation. Replacement will be required. The resistance of closed contacts on a relay that is in good condition should be very low - probably below the measurable limits on a typical multimeter - a few milliohms. If you measure significant or erratic resistance for the closed contacts as the relay is switched or if very gentle tapping results in erratic resistance changes, the contacts are probably dirty, corroded, or worn. If you can get at the contacts, the use of contact cleaner first and a piece of paper pulled back and forth through the closed contacts may help. Superfine sandpaper may be used as a last resort but this is only a short term fix. The relay will most likely need to be replaced if as in this case the contacts are switching any substantial power.