20 Most Recent Danby 3.6 cu. ft. / 102 liter Chest Freezer Millenium DCF401W - Page 4 Questions & Answers

It could be the thermostat. When you catch it in a cycle where it's warming up, gently tap the dial with the handle of a screw driver. If it starts chances are it's bad. If you know electricty you can jump the two terminals on the thermostat to do this test.

Yes, here are some helps:
1. Buy a load of dry ice and pack as much as you can in the available spaces of the freezer. The less free air space the better.
2. When traveling, if at all possible when stopping for the night, use an extension cord to plug the freezer in.
3. You may need to repack the dry ice once, but you'll be in pretty good shape if you fill it tight.

You may want to seal the door shut with tape. Avoid duct tape...too much residue .. try gaffers tape, it can stay on for a few weeks without leaving all the duct tape goop...

Hope all goes well on your trip.
K

Doesn't matter thermostat is just a switch operated by temperature.

http://www.danby.com/
Go to this web site and look at the top header where it says "Product Registration".
This should do it for you.

Should operate 24 hours before putting anything in that is not already frozen. Check it again after it has run for 24 hours. Anytime you adjust the thermostat go one click at a time and wait 24 hours for it to stabilize.
eric

maybe you should go with a different brand???

Your problem is more than likely in the light itself. The green light is the indicator that the temperature is in acceptable range.

I cannot find sitefor registration & warranty for my new microwave that i purchases. Iris

If it is the thermostat that is defective the two wires that go to the thermostat for compressor operation can be connected together which would power up the compressor. Unplug the unit before attempting to connect the two wires. after connection is made plug it back in and if the compressor operates and the freezer comes down in temperature you definitely have a bad thermostat.

Clockwise is always colder on any control like that. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

hate to tell you but your compressor is going out on your freezer ,,, i'd look for another freezer.
Larry

the best is to check the wires at the compressor start device to make sure it has 120v and if it does the compressor is bad and if it doesn't the replace the themostat.
Larry

if the compressor runs but your not getting cold, 90 percent of the time one of two things has happened. either the compressor valves have gotten weak over time and the process of moving and warming up allowed it to defrost and now it has to pull down from a hot box to freezing and just can't because the valves prevent 100 percent efficiency and it struggles to achieve temperature.however i think most likely is that the delicate , brittle , and highly suceptible steel tubing in the outer skin of the box has ruptured and the box has lost its refrigerant charge. these are sealed systems usually with no place to apply a gage to verify if charge is low or valves are bad. if by some chance it has access ports where you can apply a suction gage, a pressure of 20 to 40 punds is close for a hot box and pressures of 60 and above may indicate weak valves. if you are running less than 10 pounds or in a vacuum then the charge is gone, leaked out . unfortunately a new compressor is usually to big an investment in an old box. new is cheaper! and if the tubing in the case has ruptured, then its inaccessible and box is condemned also. sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but many times a new box is a blessing and saves you from sinking a ton of money in an old one. imagine your frustration if the compressor went bad cause it was low on freon and you paid for a new compressor only to have it die in a few months also. i am pretty sure you have lost your freon charge and unless you can physically see the leak with soap bubbles right at the compressor piping you are in need of a new box. good luck .

ice cream is always the last to freeze and a temp of minus -10 degrees is usually required to get it to get hard. if you put the ice cream in the door it will be especially tough to freeze. a good thermometor is a good investment as you can observe the temps. usually ten degrees or 20 degrees is what they run. yes they do cycle on and off as long as they hold temps thats good. the outside of the freezer gets warm because the hot compressed refrigerant is spread through piping near its surface giving up its heat of compression . setting the stat to max will freeze the ice cream eventually but utility bill suffers . good luck

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Brian

http://www.danby.com/index.php?

If it is out of warranty the cost of repairing it may be more than the cost of replacing it.

you have a refrigeration issue. let me guess. is the frost real thick around a small area not the entire lining? if so you have a restriction or leak. cheaper to replace by the way

Not sure what a drop cord is but a compressor will either run or not as the case may be. Power supply variations can cause failure but not tear it up. If the compressor is running noisey then unfortunately it will continue to do so until it stops. However it could be that it is a vibration of the pipes due to the move causing the additional noise. I would suggest having a look at the back of the cabinet and seeing if you can pinpoint a bit more precisely the source of the noise. Hope this helps.

One of these is a power light. It typically remains on while the freezer is in use. No light means either a blown bulb or no power. The other is associated with the thermostat. But it does NOT indicate that freezer temperature is appropriate. Flickering appears to indicate the bulbs are simply failing. The bulbs are neon, I think, and are not cheap. Some might try replacing such with LEDs. I have seen comment that the bulbs are not long lasting. www.manualslib.com has numerous danby freezer manuals but I do not know your model. Have a look.