Top 20 Gateway FPD2185W 21 in. LCD Television Questions & Answers

Fault to the main power supply regulator section. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/ http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.

You have faulty LCD panel, there's no fix for this but changin your panel which is very expensive.

try if it has not been done to UNPLUG the set from power for some time to see if the set will reset. If the light will not go off the power supply of the set or the circuit that controls it may be at fault---set might actually be powered up all the time.

do consult owners manual as this may be a auto demo mode that has been activated by accident.

Hi Michael, it does sound like the monitor then. The most likely cause is bad capacitors in the power supply. Typically a cheap repair but you do have to solder and such. Unless you have to have a very expensive monitor its probably better to just replace it since basic monitors are so cheap these days. Good luck.

If you still need help with this email me Sprint6 at zoominternet.net

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
I order these parts from www.digikey.com because they are less than a buck a piece, and arrive next day (shiping here is a flat $8 rate, your location may vary)

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

just replace the caps with the proper uF specification value and the voltage that is on the cap or slightly higher , never replace with a lesser voltage cap.

It's very likely a problem with some of the capacitors in the power supply area. You can search for similar fixes here on this site. I'm ordering parts now for mine. Two of the eight tall/blue capacitors in a bunch have tops that are bulging (but I'll replace all eight since they're cheap). There's a pair of two in the middle of the same board on mine with bulging tops and there are four transistors in that same area that look like they got too hot. Most people seem to be getting away with only replacing the bulged capacitors but here is my total part list from digikey.com:
785-1106-1-ND quantity 2 (the D405-marked transistors) 785-1114-1-ND quantity 2 (the D408-marked transistors) P12389-ND quantity 8 (the 470uF capacitors) P12383-ND quantity 2 (the 220uF capacitors)
The total part list is about $7.50 with another $2.50 or less shipping. It's a pain to take apart, given the small connectors inside. The fix assumes you have soldering skills.
Go with these from digikey versus Radio Shack. They're rated for 220 degrees fahrenheit versus only 85 degrees and they're about a third less cost.

The power printed circuit board is failing by the
information that you have given, but with additional information we may find
the actual cause and a solution to it. You may email me at: [email protected] or explain
better the symptoms it is having.

try to select other source,

It's very likely a problem with some of the capacitors in the power supply area. You can search for similar fixes here on this site. I'm ordering parts now for mine. Two of the eight tall/blue capacitors in a bunch have tops that are bulging (but I'll replace all eight since they're cheap). There's a pair of two in the middle of the same board on mine with bulging tops and there are four transistors in that same area that look like they got too hot. Most people seem to be getting away with only replacing the bulged capacitors but here is my total part list from digikey.com:
785-1106-1-ND quantity 2 (the D405-marked transistors) 785-1114-1-ND quantity 2 (the D408-marked transistors) P12389-ND quantity 8 (the 470uF capacitors) P12383-ND quantity 2 (the 220uF capacitors)
The total part list is about $7.50 with another $2.50 or less shipping. It's a pain to take apart, given the small connectors inside. The fix assumes you have soldering skills.
Go with these from digikey versus Radio Shack. They're rated for 220 degrees fahrenheit versus only 85 degrees and they're about a third less cost.

Almost all monitors will accept a 60Hz signal at almost any resolution, however I suggest 1024 X 768 at 60Hz...then you can try higher frequencies such as 75 Hz or more after you have established that the unit is functional.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both. In your case, likely the power section. Check for micro-fuses while you're in there.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
Parts can be ordered online from www.digikey.com and should arrive next day - the parts are typically less than $1 each.

the power supply is starting to fail, you are using workarounds to keep it working, but this is causing more harm the longer you wait to get it repaired.which at some point may become unrepairable then. email [email protected] may be able to explain how to repair it before it is to late.

Broken connection from the screen ribbon to the monitor
screen has become disconnected, mark the spot on the screen where the line occurs
and then dismantle the screen, remove the metal cover at the top of the screen,
which exposes the pc board and the ribbon connections. Where the markings of
the line is place a piece of rubber similar to (inter-tube material)over this
area, this should apply pressure to the area of the ribbon that has a
loose connection and hold it tight. The ribbon is bonded not soldered to the
screen. Reassemble and test.

try replacing the diod located within the group of caps you have already replaced

It is a power board failure, needs to be service by a qualified technician. It is a small service project. For more info email [email protected].

Replace the 470 uF 25 volt capacitators on the power board, check the diode in the center of this group.