Danby Compact Refrigerator DCR-101W - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Is there a fan inside? look for a switch in the door frame and make sure it runs with the door shut. If not could one be added?

It depends on your fridge ice forms at 32 degrees and shelves one about 35 to 45 u have to know how much is in it also food wise lot on shelves id say before the snow flake on thermostat part because it can freeze soda cans if it's to low and stuff is pushed to far back

Roy,Good Morning ! I noticed your post on Danby door gasket seal. I have the same problem and I was wondering if you found a solution ?You can reach me at [email protected]

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

It could be a problem with the Thermostat, Inefficient Compressor / Evaporator Fan Motor or Air Diffuser but as you've said it hasn't been opened for a while I think it's a lot simpler.

When the refrigerator is running the fan keeps air flowing in the correct direction keeping it at an even temperature. Due to the fact that the door hasn't been opened it stays cold so it doesn't need to run which would cause the temperature to drop further and subsequently freeze your contents.

With sufficient training and equipment this is not too hard to do, HOWEVER

1. Fridges contain high pressure gasses, some of these are flammable
2. You will need, guage manifold, accurate weighing scales (+/- 1 gram), a charging still, reclaim pump, reclaim cylinder, welding gear, access connectors, vacuum pump etc, Oh yes and an f-gas certificate.

My best advice DON'T TRY, lots of people get hurt doing this

I've fixed fridges for around 40 years now

There is no sensor like you stated. Actually, when you keep open the fridge door, the cooling all will go out and hence thermostat sensor would not cut off, as required temp not reached inside the fridge.
So, the compressor would have run for long time without cut off. Due to this the overload protector trips the compressor. Remove power for 4 to 6 hrs. And then restart the fridge. But make sure you close the fridge door. Thanks.

you puntrured the line that carries the coolant. you can attempt to fix it with a patch compund. It might be shot if you dont want to bother. Let me know i will help you if needed with step by step.

Good day,
It is normal for a compressor to run hotter than normal when it is going thru it's pull down cycle.
One, it is working harder than normal since the interior is still warmer than normal.
As well, at the beginning, since the machine is trying to get to normal temps as well as cooling the walls, it will run excessively if not all the time.
Waiting 48 hours would be prudent to make a judgement call.
The compressor should be warm, but since by then it should be shutting off and on it will tend overall to be cooler.
If it reaches normal operating temperatures and cycles off and on, I wouldn't worry about it.

I did the same thing. I know it's a little late now but for anyone that does this again here's what to do. There's a thermostat in your actual freezer you might not be able to see it, because it might be covered in ice. It looks like a tiny tube, To stop the defrosting all you have to do is warm up the thermostat either pressing a hot towel agaisnt it or meltling the ice with a dryer (but be careful)! After a minute or so the red button should pop out again and the refrigerator will start humming again. Unplugging the refrigerator will not reset anything and don't try to pop the red button out of your own!

hello sir/mam
please check and change the temp sensor then see its working

hello mam
if the refrigerator is not cooling we should check the freezing coolant in the compressor and if necessary that should be refilled.

hello mam
there will be gas leak please check it.

I can't tell without a model number but most defrost for 20 or 30 minutes every 8 hours or so. Unless you have an adaptive defrost control and it varies with those based on usuage.

if the compressor is running and both pipes on the compressor are warm or hot then it sounds like its out of gas u need to find the leak look for oil residue on the pipe joins if none more than likely the evaporator is leaking

I don't think fire is any issue. The unit cools itself by dissipating it's heat on its outside walls. For the moment, the outside is hotter than normal because the inside is also hotter than normal. Both will normalize after a while.

The two lines entering/exiting the lower right of the attached photo (back view) should be the condenser as the lines on left side appear to be for evaporation. Looks like they buried the coils inside the right side panel and possibly the top. The coils may be bonded to panel metal and the metal is what radiates extracted heat.

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Amazon, Walmart or Danby direct. https://www.google.com/search?q=danby+dkc146sldb+ptc+relay+replacement ..

No it is time for a new one. There is either a leak on the inner liner or the insulation between the inner layer and outer layer has broken down and is causing condensation.