20 Most Recent Haier ESR042PBB 4.2 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator/Freezer Energy Star - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Pull the fridge freezer out and see if the loud knocking sound is coming from the compressor. It's that black round thing at the bottom in the back. If it is, it's time to go shopping.

Haier... | Answered on Feb 19, 2015

do you hear the compressor come on? can u feel it vibrating? if not? bad relay maybe? is there power from the outlet? may also have a bad cold control thermostat or defrost timer? is ther any heat in the freezer compartment?

Haier... | Answered on Feb 16, 2015

hold the button down for few seconds !!!!!! not in the book ????
wankers,...... the tech support said change water filter but said nothing about water reset don 't be in a hurry to get a man out try this first ................................

Haier... | Answered on Nov 21, 2014

The heater has stopped working. Most common cause is the heating element or the fan. The element can crack and the crack does not allow electricity to pass. The fan can jamb up after the ice grows so it may not be the first problem. After you melt the ice you can see if the fan spins.
Prepare to fix this before you go shopping and call the local appliance parts pros with your model number and ask if they stock the two items. You'll have to run and buy them same day if you can.

The heater is accessed by first removing all your food to another refrigerator or coolers and unplugging the unit. Be ready to do this twice because you may have to order the parts and it takes a couple of days or weeks to get them, if not nearby.
Open all the doors and allow the ice to melt. Don't try to rush this with a hair dryer, Do not chop it! You may damage other items behind the rear panel and quickly destroy the unit! Use towels on the floor and sop up the water in the freezer with another towel. When the ice melts, you want to open up the rear panel in the freezer. Ususally a 1/4" nut driver fits the nuts on these panels.

You will see the evaporating unit, looks like a radiator. Under it is a black/grey rod with a plug on the end, it is the heater element rod. It looks like the same metal as the rod in the bottom of your dishwasher. This rod resists electricity and heats up when activated in cycles allowing the ice to melt, usually every 8-10 hours.
The ice builds normally when the fan draws warm air past the evaporator into the tube going to the fresh food area. The evaporator being cold like a glass of iced tea in the summer, condenses the moisture out of the air and it freezes up forming a block of ice on the evaporator. This ice must get melted out every 8-10 hours by a timer that usually doesn't ever fail. Then the fresh food area stays warm because the ice stops the air passage. The water drains by gravity to the bottom of your unit to a dish either above or below the compressor motor. The heat from the motor evaporates the water into your kitchen making the kitchen feel warmer than the rest of the house sometimes.
Unplug the refrigerator from the house's power outlet.
You will need a person handywith a multimeter to check if you have continuity through the heating element. Unplug the element and attach either wire of the multimeter to either blade of the plug connector on the element, not the fridge. Set the meter to continuity and it should beep or show a resistance value. No value means no conductance or no electricity can pass.
If the element has resistance or continuity beep, look toward the fan. Plug in the heater. Step away from the unit and connect the power to see if the fan starts by setting the unit to the coldest setting. If it starts you may have a sensor gone bad. If it doesn't start leave the doors open and wait a few more minutes. It will start the compressor motor because you did have ice before. If the fan doesn't start while the motor is running you should check for power at the fan with your multimeter set to ac volts.Experienced multimeter users only! connect red to the black and black to the opposit wire of the fan. If your wrong it will not read. If your meter has automatic safety for reverse power tests then you can reverse the meter wires to double check. If there is power to the fan then replace the fam motor. If you get no power reading at the fan you may need a new control PCB.
Any other parts beyond these I recommend a service tech. They have access to schematic diagrams and can identify circuitry problems.

Haier... | Answered on Nov 07, 2014

Hello Omie;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Bottom drawer & bottom freezers are nightmares. Next time but a side by side or top freezer.
Ok, lets fix this. Using a hair dryer defrost all of the ice around the door. Next, you have a rack and pinion assembly that the drawer rides on. This also is iced up. Defrost the rack & pinion.
When you close the drawer you will probably have a gap on one side. This is caused from the ice build up and the rack and pinion jumping a tooth.
Where the side is that has the gap, you must lift the drawer and jerk hard towards the gap to jump a rack and pinion on the opposite side. You may have to repeat this. It is a strong arm operation.

Haier... | Answered on Oct 30, 2014

That is what is sounds like but let's check. An overload relay will fail due to wear, a short or a bad compressor will knock it out. There is a rare occasion you may purchased a bad overload relay, but that is rare. The rattling of the overload relay is a good indicator it is bad, however it does not have to rattle to be bad - inspect for burn marks as well.
The clicking sound is the overload relay trying to start the compressor. There will be a pause and then click trying to start the compressor again.
Remove the overload relay component and expose the three pins on the compressor. Using a multi- meter, measure the Ohms across the three pins. You will get one high Ohm reading and two lower Ohm readings. If the two lower readings add up to the higher reading the compressor is good. Make sure the green ground wire is securely grounded. It could nock out the overload. Check for loose connections. Replacing a compressor is a major repair. The cost will exceed the purchase price. Rule of thumb; "If the cost of the repair is 1/3 or more of the purchase price of the unit, Buy new".
As a retired Sears service technician, we considered these units
as throw-a-ways due to the high cost of repair. If you had a service contract we would replace the unit rather than repair it

Haier... | Answered on Oct 24, 2014

the condenser needs cleaning or the cond fan motor is not running.... remove the front grill located on the bottom of unit next to floor, you can see the cond coils from there, you should also be able tell if the fan is running, it is located in the rear of unit,, remove the cover behind ref at bottom to access the cond fan motor....

Haier... | Answered on Oct 10, 2014

only way to fix this problem is silver solder. It takes an oxy/acetalene torch to melt the silver solder and plug the hole. Then you have to evacuate the line (pull a vacuum on the line) and then add refigerant for it to work again you need: oxy/acetalene torch, vacuum pump, and gauges plus the refrigerent (134) probably buy a new freezer for the price of all the equipment

Haier... | Answered on Oct 03, 2014

hi there, i noticed your post was in 08 did you find a seal to fit your fridge i have a hrf 488 fr/a and fisher and pykel are looking after them now... they advised be that this model is obsolete now and no longer have parts available.

Haier... | Answered on Jun 06, 2014

go to your cooling control pannel ,,,, increase its number, set high your freezer temp, if you dont get any benifit, call to a service man . your compressor may be stopped working

Haier... | Answered on Apr 18, 2014

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