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HDN655E Haier dehumidifier
The fuse is not really needed. Look at the sticker on the compressor in
the back and you will see it is rated at 30 LRA which is locked rotor
amps. Obviously if the compressor fails to start instantly for any
reason that 30 amps is going to blow that 12 amp fuse (which is a fast
acting instead of a slo-blo for whatever dumb reason).
The fix is simple, move the black wire that comes from the power cord
from the terminal marked L in the lower right corner of the board to
the unused terminal marked common on the big relay in the lower left of
the board directly above the fuse. This will bypass the fuse and allow
the thermal cutout on the compressor itself to do its job when the
compressor fails to start due to short cycling.
I just had one of these units given to me because it was DOA and when I
found the fuse blown I figured the compressor was shorted but after
performing this fix the unit works perfectly and is drawing a normal
amount of power according to my Kill-A-Watt meter.
My husband saids run the
Actually, your husband is correct. The settings reflect the amount of humidity you want to remain in the house. I really don't think you want to leave 50 to 60% humidity in the house.
35% removes the greatest amount of humidity.
Hope this helped answer your question and thanks for choosing FixYa.
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