20 Most Recent Honeywell HZ519 Baseboard Heater Questions & Answers

unplug the heater. remove the screws holding the control panel, pull the control out from the body of the heater enough to get the probes of an ohmmeter onto the connections that lead to the heating element. the ohmmeter should read less than 100 ohms. if the ohmmeter reads infinite ohms (open circuit), the heating element or the connections to it ate bad. if the heating element is bad, cheaper to buy a new heater. if the heating element is okay, repair connections or control. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/bill_f6ca18ca1db028ed

there is ussualy a small thumb screw in the feed pipe to the unit in qestion, just loosen it and let air and some water out.or on your boiler there will be a bleed vave sometimes there is evemn an auto vent valve

This unit uses 1500 Watts (1.5 kW) in one hour at its maximum setting. (12.5 A * 120V AC) The total cost will depend on how long the heater is on each day and the utility charges at the time of use (for example, if you have day/night rates).

The manual is available here: http://www.kaz.com/kaz/support/manual/?ProductManualAction=renderProductManualById&ProductManualId=fc5e11ee85619a5101b4c15f217911d6 .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

I do believe that there should be a tip switch under the feet and if it is broke off then you need to by pass the switch. You could use a small piece of dowel rod up inside to trip the switch and have heat.

I have an HZ519 that stopped working as well. I found that the anti tip switch is in fact a mechanical weight type if switch and not a mercury switch. The problem I'm having is that the plastic stud that the anti tip switch mounts to is melting causing the switch to come loose and fall to the bottom of the heater and therefore stop working properly depending upon the position the switch is in when it lands.
Does anyone know if Honeywell has a retrofit for this problem?
Thank you,
Randy

I have this model heater and it quit working as well. I took it apart to find that the plastic bosses that the safety switch mounts/screws to melted and the switch fell into the bottom of the heater rendering the heater useless.
FYI, The safety switch removes power from the heater when the heater is laying on it's front or back incase it gets knocked over while it is on.
This is a serious defect. These heaters should be recalled.

It sounds like the thermostat is loose and needs to be adjusted or replaced. Leave this to a professional if you don't know what you're doing. So many fires are caused by baseboard heaters.

The manual isn't very helpful.

There are three modes to the heater. Hit the mode button once, and it will display the temperature of the room with a small flashing thermometer. Set it to whatever temperature you want - BUT don't hit the mode button again! If you hit it again, it will move through the timer mode, then continuous run mode (which displays a little circle in the upper left). Same goes for the timer. If you want it to shut itself down in up to 10 hours, press the mode button until you get to the timer, set the timer for however many hours you want, and then don't hit the mode button again.

It stays in whatever mode you set it to.

Just fixed one, you will need a T-15tr driver, which is a security torx screw remover. Open back cover behind controls, check for
any lose wires. Heating element wire had become disconnected on the one I repaired. P.S. you will need an extension for the bit if it is just the bit, and not a screw driver.