20 Most Recent Intertherm P3RA-060K Air Conditioner - Page 9 Questions & Answers

light pilot then turn blower on by thermostat. if it blows it out bad heat exchanger. if it stays lit shut down & pull burner assembly clean pilot orifice.

relay issue. bad fan motor.

if its electric heat one of the sequencers or elements out

relay stuck in or thermostat issue

they all get hot if it does not have on put a 3 amp automotive style fuse in line of the electrical lines feeding it.

There's probably about 10 different ways to wire them together. If rh & rc where jumped together an tstat then R-RED W-WHITE G-GREEN Yellow (from tstat) to Red to outdoor unit if that's what they had connected outside(should be a red & white outside). If rc & rh were not jumped together @ tstat? The unit has 2 transformers and its a bit different. Rh is 24v from the inside and rc 24v from outside. And also we can use any color we want so who knows what the last guy used. Try this, install the new tformer and at the line voltage wire(L1 or load wire) get a couple of spade connectors(terminal clips) and put one on the tformer and one one the line wire. Then use a 3amp or 5amp blade fuse(auto parts store) and connect your line voltage wire end and tformer wire end to that fuse. But don't let them touch metal or each other. And buy a handful of them fuses(no greater than 5a!!). This protects the tformer as long as its done right. Then reconnect what you remember to be right or just connect 1 wire at a time. Try fan on and cool or heat, 1 wire at a time, and if the fuse opens you know that one is wrong. There is no way you can get the answer you need without knowing what wires are connected to what inside, outside and at tstat. Hope this helps and WORK SAFE!!!

you never oiled it

OK. Let me answer you, even if honestly I don't have any idea about an INTERTHERM FORCED AIR FURNACE. To get any answer, to a problem, you should describe your problem. Just telling that you don't know what's wrong with it is simply no enough information, even for a star expert in your INTERTHERM FORCED AIR FURNACE.

I don't use design pressures due to many variables such as ductwork, humidity, blower speed, o.d. temp, I.d. temp ect.... Learn SUPER HEAT AND SUBCOOLING values. Most guages give a pressure/ temperature relationship. At a pressure there is a temp that lines up with that pressure. If its r22 the temp is in the green and pressure is in the white(normally). If r410a temps in the pink. R22- Most evaporator are good between 40-50°F. If your coil is operating at 45°f your superheat value should be 10°-18°. Take the actual temp of the suction line(large copper line that's cold) and subtract that # from the temp on your gauge. The value should be 10-15°. Same on the liquid line. You o.d. coil is usually 90-105°F. The liquid line temp(small copper tube that's warm) subtracted from the pressures temp gives you the SUBCOOL value.
R410a? Subccoling
R22? Superheat and subcooling
If it has an expansion valve? Sub cooling
This method is used to take all the guesswork out of the scenario. BUT! Most of the machines will have a data plate that gives great info for this method. But some only give it in the owners/installation manual. You won't get a good answer to your question but this is the correct way all HVAC technicians SHOULD check freon levels and is the only way if we are achieving designed efficiency. If you know its low on freon, again most coils are "happy" between 40-50°F(68-84psig). And at that temp your high side should be 90-105°F(168-210psig). And again, so many variables! I usually shoot for 95°f o.d. temp, 80low 210high psig and 10° SH 12-18°SC.

freon has escaped,leak

I googled: Intertherm Air Conditioners There are a number or articals that may help you find what you need. One referance to a youtube "review" Hope this helps. I was going mention "how do you know it's a bad blower motor? But depending on age and use anything is possible. Usually the motor has a model number on it. That would be the safest way to find an exact replacement.

You have to try resetting the system. First turn the breaker off for the condenser and wait about 20 seconds. After you turn it back on the system should reset. If the s3 comes on then you have an issue with the unit and i would get a professional to help. Air Conditioning Boca Raton

On some of the mobile home style furnaces, the door itself should be louvered for return air to enter the furnace. If so, look and you should see provisions for holding the filter in the door. It may be missing a long spring or other type of clip to retain it though. If it is a gas furnace the flu pipe should come out the top, look on either side of the flu pipe for a door or pair of doors with a little sheet metal handle. If so, remove and look inside to see if there are provisions there. Also iIf there is no louvered door, sometimes the filters just rest on top of the furnace. Not a good deal if so.

replace contacters, probably old and pitted (remember points in the distributer on older cars?)

Check the fuses on the control board. They tend to wear out. If that is not the problem, check the ignitor.

Here you are.

There is a short circuit developing in an electrical circuit in the furnace. Do not turn it back on and call a service technician to examine it.

by igniter I assume you mean the thermocoupler. are you turning the control button to run after you light the pilot light? Normally when those furnaces quit it is the thermocoupler that has quit. Get a new one and leave it in the furnace compartment as a spare.

The motor is a 'sleeved bearing' motor, not a sophisticated 'ball bearing' type motor. The bronze sleeves probably need lubrication. Some motors have no oil ports, and are referred to as 'permanently lubricated' motors. If you have oil ports, they will be approximately 1/16" in diameter near the top with little yellow plastic or gray pewter plugs in them. Remove the one plug you should be able to see and gently drop 30 drops of light weight oil into it. The oil will slowly saturate the felt 'wick' that surrounds the sleeve bearing. The second oil port will probably be inaccessible with the blower installed inside the furnace and unless you are pretty handy, should be left for a pro. Unfortunately the oil port that is inaccessible is the bearing that carries virtually all the weight of the squirrel cage blower and is probably the culprit. Another possibility is that the capacitor could be bad. With a bad capacitor, it probably wouldn't start on its own at ALL. Also the motor would overheat and would cycle on its internal winding thermostat.

If you have recently changed your filter sometimes the door doesnt go back on right to depress the door switch. if you have power going to the unit the next place in line is the door switch. it looks like a light switch in your refrigerator and the door must be in place properly to depress it all the way