20 Most Recent Maytag Performa PAV2200 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I have a Performa Model PAV3200AWW that would go unbalanced every time it would go into a spin cycle. I found the problem to be a worn out snubber. This is a plastic ring that is at the pivot point for the whole tub. It separates the metal to metal contact at the bottom of the washer pivot point. The part is less than ten dollars, but it is a quit a job to replace. I had to remove the whole tub to replace mine, but it did solve the problem. If you see a lot of plastic shavings around the pivot point, then this could be your problem.

You most like have a bad motor.

hi, check the belt first it might have snapped if ok,the brushes on the motor could be the cause these are made of carbon and wear down can stop the motor working hope it helpsregardsshaun

If your Maytag is a top loader equipped with a vertical transmission under the tub, the squealing may be coming from, either the brake assembly, or the snubber which the entire pedestal rides on.  Could you please post back comments and let me know if this is the type of washer you have?  

I have a Mayag Washer and dryer The washer someimes spins of balance. the dryer has no heat, this just started. would it be the element?

HelloOn this model washer the noise is most likely caused by a worn washer tub seal assembly. remove agitator (nut on the top under cap), spin basket and tub assembly. remove seal and install new one.

This can be fault on the memory of the program controller as none of the other programs are being executed. Please remove the panel and processor controller board. Check for moisture or connection issues. If not this can be confirmed only with a swap and a new one should not be bought unless this is confirmed.

lid switch or pump 1st start washer is the washer agatating lift the lid if it stops you need to ck the water pump all wasers need to drain the water befor thay will drain

Check motor coupling

Hello,

That relay is attached to the side of the compressor,to test it their will be 2 holes where it connects to the compressor and by placing a meter set to measure continuity,on those 2 holes their should be continuity with ZERO ohms resistiance. Here is what the relay looks like

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(absolutely no promises but try this- it could be the drain motor buzzing and smelling!)

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello there and welcome to fixya
This is a very common issue with most makes of dryers here is a few things that are the most common problems
Drying is too slow It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance. Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it. To determine if the heating element is burned out, Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician. Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws. i will post a picture of the parts on the back so you can look at them too ok?

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter.

Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C