20 Most Recent Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Right handed

The TL neptune has a small shock absorber on the middle left hand corner behind the front panel. it uses a small wiring clip that could be loose, with a type of inertia switch.A common issue I've encountered with this machine is underloading. The snubber and springs allow a fair amount of movement. Don't do a few simple items or mixed load in this machine. If these don't seem to help, let us know.

I don't believe there are any shipping bolts on that unit.

I would ask Washerbearings.com and see if they have a bearing and seal kit already or if they can make one up for you for the FAV6800 top loaders.

check if the motor is rotating or get stuck up, then how about the timer switch is that ok?.

Remove the whole tray and rinse it well looking for any clogs in the holes.

I have the letters "LF" on display, wsher does not work.. What does "LF" mean?Thank you

heres a service manual for your machine


http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022808.pdf

Hello rdberg,

See this post Clutch Fix it has helped a few owners with the dC and uC unbalance errors with the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. You have a very common problem with a Clutch malfunction. The first part of the post has to do with the nuts and bolts of disassembly and Clutch maintenance or replacement of the Clutch Pulley.

In the last part of the post I go into just how to check the One-Way Rollers clutches to verify that are locking up. If they don’t this results in tumbler movement on Wash Basket spin up and the unbalance errors. If you are handy and have some basic hand tools you can get your machine back in service at low cost.

Post back if you have questions…..Rich

What are the first to digits of your machines serial number? It will be 10 thru 17.

Did the machine bang around in Spin Cycle during the wash Cycle with the uC error code?

The FAV6800A and it’s sister FAV9800A LCD display version of the machine suffer from a chronic Dry/Rusted One-Way Roller clutch issue. See this Clutch repair post on this forum for clutch maintenance and or replacement and this post on another forum. Read how to check the failure of the One-Way Roller clutches to slip in the CCW/Spin direction at this post.

If you are just a bit handy you can do the maintenance or order a replacement from AZ they have the best price around $56. I will help you every step of the way…..Rich


Couple of links to the Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.

I’ll paste in how to check the Tub Displacement Sensor. I don’t feel that is the issue but is will give you a chance to go into Service Mode and check thru the lid for proper operation.


Tub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check. This test is done with the washer lid raised see page 19 of the SM for the details.

It is possible the Tub Displacement Sensor may have failed try this check which is in the Troubleshooting guide stored in your washer console or refer to the SM.

a. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”

b. Press the Super Wash key display reads “in”…something like that.

c. Press Delicates the Display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

d. Push tub to the back right corner of the machine the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

e. Press Hand Wash.

f. Pull tub to the front left corner while pushing the tub down the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).

If you get these results your TDS sensor should be just fine and not the cause of dC or uC unbalance errors……fix the clutch and your machine will be J

This is gunk build up under the agitator and/or the drain area under the drum. It needs to come apart...

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Hi sissyfullers
I’m an owner like you not a repair tech. Yes you have a Clutch malfunction if the wash tub is banging around in Spin Cycle of the Wash Cycle or a Spin Only cycle.

One-way Roller Clutches bearing in the Clutch Pulley and possibly the same for the One-way Roller Clutches bearing ring if your machine if it is a Series 10 or 11. Looks like Series 12 and above have the redesigned Outer tub incorporating the integral Lower Tub bearing with a One-way Roller Clutches bearing.

The big question is do you want to DIY the fix and maybe extend the service life of your machine. You probably have a leaky tub seal that brought on this issue. If you have no water driping on to the Clutch Pulley we could put off that fix for now.

If you call in a Repair Company I feel you will find the repair tech may not have a clue….but I could be wrong. If they have a clue and replace the Clutch Pulley you may be looking at $300 - $400 for the repair. DIY it and see if you can save your $1K machine many owners have.

If you have no water dripping on the clutch pulley then I would remove the Clutch Pulley and see if you can clean up the Roller Clutches bearing and if used the Roller Clutches bearing ring as I describe in this post Clutch Fix.

What is your machine Series number that is the first two digits of your machine Serial Number located here;

Take a look at the Clutch Fix post and see if you or a family member, friend or neighbor can do the Clutch Pulley removal and inspection see what we are up against. If you decide to DIY I will help you thru the process steps it’s not so difficult once you have a feel for the work.

Some handy references;
FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct.
Good Luck........Rich

I had the exact problem just yesterday on this identical unit. All I did was pull the Clutch pulley assembley from the bottom of the machine. Then make sure bearings and spring are moving in the proper directions (lubricate) and you should be good to go. Instructions on how can be found on this website and others. I'm pretty sure your problem will be solved in a couple of hours. Cleaning and restoring the bearings properly takes approx and hour.

It ispossible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errorsdue to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main programcontroller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting fromthe flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit thewater at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then thevoltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to novoltage from the controller. This meansthe controller is a suspect.

Please check on the support site of Maytag, click on Maytag

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html

Check for tips on the link below to identify parts and removal:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7