Check to see if the belt has landed in the groove instead of on the outside of the drum. One might assume that the groove is there for the belt, but inspection of the drum will show previous belt location about an inch beside it. To fix, rotate the drum counter clockwise while pulling the belt away from the groove on the bottom of the drum. Once it has rotated a complete revolution, it should be in alignment and the noise should disappear.
THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT IS ON YOUR HEAT ELEMENT CANISTER. THEN YOU SHOULD HAVE ONLY ONE OTHER AND THAT WOULD BE YOUR CYCLING THERMOSTAT. CHECK TO SEE IF A COIL IS BROKEN ON THE HEAT ELEMENT ITSELF.
I have been to the Maytag website and I could only find the installation instructions. Sometimes the wiring diagram will be located in an envelope on the unit. If the dryer isn't getting hot enough and you are sure that there is nothing empeding the airflow, then the thermostat is the only thing that can be wrong. These units are typically pretty simple.
The 'glow thing' is called a Thermocouple and is a safety device that makes sure that there is a flame before the main gas valve to the burners opens up.
Because it is a gas appliance and the very REAL danger of explosion, all gas appliance must be worked on by a gas certified technician. It is not a big job and they normally carry thermocouples in the van.
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JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair
Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running.
1 answer ยท Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ...
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Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Misc Category.
F01 is a very straight forward error and it means that your dryer has detected a short in the main relay power control board mounted to the left side wall under the top panel of the dryer.
Oct 19, 2018
what is the model number? free standing pilots have been gone for several years. Google your model number and include parts.
This will give you sites that sell parts.
You most likely have and hot surface ignitor.
https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=the+electrical+capacity+of+Maytag+MDG9700BWW%3F
Then check related searches
MOTOR: 1/4HP,120 volt,60 Hz,single-phase,thermally protected against overload,auto-reset. EXHAUST:Use a minimum of 4"(10.2 cm) diameter rigid aluminum or galvanized steel duct. Never use plastic,nonmetal or combustible duct. HEAT SOURCE/ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS: Electric model- 5,300 watt nichrome helix coil; 240 volt,AC,60 Hz; 30 amp fuse. Gas model-Single port burner with automatic electric ignition; 22,000 BTU/hr. 15 amp fuse. Self-adjusting valve automatically compensates for variation in gas pressure. WEIGHTS (Crated/Uncrated):
The F70 indicates a communication error code between the main control on the top left and the user interface on the front. Unplug the machine and remove the top. Check the connection on the board in the white plastic housing on the top left. Next check the connections on the board on the front.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.
