20 Most Recent Maytag Atlantis MDE6400AY Electric Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

check this blog By Heatman,, http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug. Dryer Cord and Wiring Dryer 3 Wire or 4 Wire



heatman101

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101=-=-
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Screeching is the metal-on-metal contact of the drum touching the rear of the unit while
turning - there's a (usually) felt cover gasket over the circular depression at the back of the dryer.
When this wears through (after a number of years/loads), you get the screeching of
metal-to-metal contact.
Problem: friction can heat up the metal so much that the remaining felt gasket material (and/or
accumulated lint or clothing) catches fire.
Fix: replace felt drum gasket.
The Maytag Atlantis MDE6400AY electric dryer has a DuraCushion(tm) dryer drum, so I'm
suspecting the "DuraCushion" has worn out at least at one point in its 360-degree arc.

yes its possible ,, you need to open up the machine and tighten them from the back though ,, this link has instructions and pictures on how to get in to do that http://www.applianceaid.com/may-apart.html

Hi fitzdog37...
You have two problems it sounds like...
1...Belt is being burned by the motor because it is slipping.
2...Drum rollers in need of replacement.
Here is some help below:


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Suggest you clean the lint trap AND THE exhaust hose. If either is blocked up, the dryer could overheat - and cause a fire if it gets too hot.

Hi ulmer bob..
Here is some things to try and hopefully get your dyer going again.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley, or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

That looks like a slope faced maytag. I have the service manual right ova HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

part number for timer is AP4043083 , if you also need the timer clutch that number is AP4042974 both thru appliancepartspros for about $85.00 each

Are you comfortable taking the dyer apart? There are just a few simple screws to remove. It sounds like a bad blower wheel. If you follow the link you should be able to trouble shoot the issue.
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-will-not-spin/agitator-woes/dryer-will-not-work/how-do-i-get-inside-my-dryer/gas-dryer-quits-heating/more-gas-dryer-enlightenment/gallery-of-dryer-parts-locations-and-diagrams/frigidaire-gibson-kelvanator-dryer-101/kenmore-whirlpool-englis-roper-dryer-notes/ge-dryer-repair/maytag-norge-amana-crosley-basic-repair-info

Most likely culprits are the thermostat (or a short in the wiring related to the thermostat) . I am assuming it is a normal current breaker and not an earth leakage breaker. It seems likely to be the thermostat as that probably switches after a few minutes (whereas the element which is also a common failure is on from the start of the cycle, so if there was short in the element that would take the breaker out immediately).
Does it do the same whatever heat setting you select?
If you switch it back on before letting it cool to much does it trip sooner?
If the time it takes to trip changes when you change the heat setting that would point to the thermostat/wiring too.


I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.

Hi, Belt is going bad... has a chunk out of it...
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/timer-Maytag-dryer.html

disconnect vent tube, run dryer as it shall work now. I would guess restricted vent tube. Good Luck Tim

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

just buy the exact replacement cord, and remove the little metal cover, where the cord goes into the machine, and replace the cord just like the old one was.. you will need a Philips screwdriver.

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That is a common problem if exhaust on rear has a crimped hose or the line has lint that has built up and blocked the exhaust hose to outside. See if that is the problem by just for testing remover the hose on back rear for a run and it will tell if yes or no, Thanks Sea Breeze