20 Most Recent Maytag MES5770 Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

Either control board bad, or there is more then one circuit breaker controlling the power, check the breakers on both the inside and outside breaker box...Stranger things have happened..

press and hold the power button for 15 seconds

for continued facts and solutions
Your input panel needs to be serviced. Please try to change the AC outlet location first before attempting the service yourself. If your still experiencing problems, then remove the front panel to locate the the soldered joints behind the power button. There is a relay which may be worn and can be changed by you. You may find the area covered in rust and oxidized. If this is the case, then we have found the root cause behind your problem and will need to change out the bad part. Please reply with any question

f9 means eithere the door latch mechanism has failed or the relay on the erc(control board) has failed that control the door latch mechanism.... i looked it up and all maytag/ amana electric ranges are saying same thingt about this code... good luck to you

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You cannot reset the f3 issue, and the oven will need repairs

Oven temperature sensor open is your f3 issue

Check oven temperature sensor, should be ~1100 ohms at room temperature. If too high or low, replace oven temperature sensor.

the f1 issue is a stove runaway.. your oven got to hot and shut itself down,

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

4 Thumbs - Very Helpful
3 Thumbs - Helpful

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You have a door latch issue

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%#$^#

We provide free diagnostic information when you tell us what brand and model number you are having issues with.
We are available from 7 AM – 7 PM CST. We also provide part removal/installation instructions for our customers when parts are purchased through us.
It is our goal to get you back up and running again ASAP, so please contact us when you need us to help you.
We look forward to hearing you and hope that you have a terrific day. Thank you, Ella
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service

Hi. Usually, This means that either the touch pad or the oven control board (also called clock or ERC), is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be canceled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.

NOTE_ Before you replace the main control board, try a hard reset. This can be done by unplugging the unit for five minutes. This will force a re-boot, and possibly restore the normal functions, if the damage is not severe. If the problems persist after the reset, this will confirm the damage the the main control board. If you cannot unplug physically, simply shutdown the appropriate circuit breaker for five minutes.

rmedrano, Try pressing and holding the stop-time and cancel pads together for 5 seconds, see if it comes back to life. If not, try the cancel and clock keypads together for 3 seconds. First is the control lock-out funtion and the second is the display blank mode. If these fail to work, you are going to have to test for power at the board. The clock (ERC) has a 3 year warranty incase you have to call for service. Catriver.post back.

This may sound silly and I know your stove is gas, but is your stove plugged into a power outlet on the wall? Some older stoves had the igniters powered from a wall socket so had to be 'plugged in' and others are powered by replaceable batteries, (AA's or AAA's), with the pack being mounted low down on the front, near one of the front feet. If it is a battery type try changing the battery for a new one. Sometimes the fix is that easy.

How to light the pilot on Maytag Dutch Oven - YouTube

If the keypad on your Maytag Gemini oven (numbers only) has stopped working, there are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Power cycle the oven: Turn off the oven by unplugging it from the power source or by switching off the circuit breaker. Leave it powered off for a few minutes, and then plug it back in or switch the circuit breaker back on. This can sometimes reset the keypad and resolve temporary issues.
2. Check for physical damage: Inspect the keypad for any physical damage, such as cracks or signs of wear. If you notice any damage, it may be causing the keypad malfunction. In such cases, the keypad might need to be replaced.
3. Clean the keypad: Over time, dirt, grease, or food particles can accumulate on the keypad, which can interfere with its functioning. Use a soft, damp cloth to gently clean the keypad. Avoid using harsh chemicals or excessive moisture that could damage the keypad.
4. Test the oven's other functions: Check if other functions of the oven are working properly, such as the temperature controls and other buttons. If only the numeric keypad is affected, it could indicate a specific issue with that part of the keypad or the underlying circuitry.
5. Contact Maytag customer support: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it is advisable to contact Maytag customer support or schedule a service appointment with a qualified technician. They will be able to provide further guidance and assistance in diagnosing and fixing the problem.

If you've converted your Maytag oven to LP (propane) and you're experiencing issues with the oven and broiler not receiving propane and not producing a flame, there could be a few possible causes:

1. Gas supply: Ensure that the propane supply to the oven is turned on and the gas valve is fully open. Check that the propane tank is properly connected and that there is sufficient propane in the tank. If the tank is low or empty, it may need to be refilled.
2. Incorrect conversion: Double-check that the conversion from natural gas to LP was done correctly. Verify that the conversion orifices have been installed in the correct locations and that the air adjustment shutters or plates have been adjusted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Improper conversion can result in inadequate gas flow and a lack of flame.
3. Clogged orifices: It's possible that the orifices, which control the flow of gas, have become clogged with debris or residue during the conversion process. Clean the orifices using a small brush or a compressed air canister specifically designed for cleaning gas orifices.
4. Gas pressure: LP gas operates at a higher pressure than natural gas. Ensure that the pressure regulator on the oven has been adjusted or replaced to accommodate LP gas. If the regulator is not properly set for LP gas, it may not deliver the correct pressure for proper combustion.
5. Faulty ignition system: If the oven and broiler are glowing but not producing a flame, there may be an issue with the ignition system. Check the igniter for any signs of damage or wear. A faulty igniter may not generate enough heat to ignite the propane. Consider replacing the igniter if necessary.

If you've checked these potential issues and the problem persists, it may be best to contact a qualified appliance technician or the manufacturer's customer support for further assistance. They can provide specific troubleshooting steps or arrange for a service visit to diagnose and resolve the issue with your Maytag oven.