20 Most Recent Maytag 30 in. CSE9000 Electric Cooktop Questions & Answers

if it's like mine white to neutral, bare to ground, red and yellow to the red, black and blue to the black

white goes to neutral, bare copper to ground, red and yellow to one phase ( red L1 wire) and the black and blue to the other phase ( black L2 wire)

each colored wire is for a seperate burner, the white wire connects to the white neutral wire the bare wire connects to the ground the red and yellow wires connect to the red wire (L1) and the black and blue wires connect to the black wire (L2). i have the same model and i connected mine this way and it's working fine. mine is also connected in a box that has a seperate fuze for each burner so you can follow the red (L1) wires to the 2 fuzes and connect your red and yellow wires to these fuzes and the follow the black (L2) wire to it's 2 fuzes and connect your black and blue wires to these fuzes. i don't know if this box is necessary or ir you can just connect directly to the wiresin a regular box and rely on the breaker but it was already there from the old cooktop i replaced so i used it. hope this helps you

Is there a place where there are fuses? try replacing any burned out fuses

The burner may not light if the ignitor is damaged, soiled or wet. The spark is not coming because igniter is weak. the problem with your oven is a bad igniter.
Let me explain how it works:
The igniter is wired in series with the burner valve. When the thermostat calls for heat, line voltage is applied to the circuit. As the igniter begins to glow, the current increases. The current flow causes the valve to open when the igniter becomes bright red (almost white). Flat igniters operate from 3.2 to 3.6 amps. In your case the current is less then 3.2 amps and even it does glow it does not open the gas valve.
Replacing the igniter should solve the problem.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Hi Greg. Welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. I have been looking into this for several hours now. Even service manual(s). The only thing I can find is the yellow wire goes from the infinite switch to the right side elements. I don't see a blow on your model so the wiring diagram should be on the bottom of the pan cover. The bad news is I can not tell if it is actually on the bottom or inside the bottom. From everything I can see it appears that the yellow wire would be attached to L1 vs where you currently have it connected i.e neutral. I can not come up with the wiring diagram that is part of your cooktop but all of the other Electric Maytag and Jenn-Aire models show the same thing. Yellow wire from the infinite switch and L1. Take a look at your wiring diagram if you can find it and see if you come up with the same conclusion.

This became one of those solve the mystery questions for me and I literally have been looking at it for about 3 hours now. trying to get something I can safely pass to you that will not damage your unit.

With the yellow wire on neutral currently it would be operating on 110V and have low heat. Placing the yellow wire on L1 (Left) should get 208V to the right side burners. Again.. take a look at the schematic / wiring diagram that is attached to your unit.

This is the best I can do from here. The users manuals I have found for your cooktop are in several languages. ENGLISH is not one of them :(

Kelly

The usual amperage rating for a cook top is 30 amps. There should be a manufacturers label that states the amperage of the unit. It may be on the back or on the edge of the unit.

They may stay on until the burners cool off. To indicate a hot surface.

othing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1. Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown? Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2. Power cord plugged in? Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3. Power cord damage? Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4. A clicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5. 6. Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse ++++ Oven Control Board The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven. Relay board: Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

Use this link for answers to all your cooktop issues.

Go to your electrical panel and check the circuit breakers. If one is tripped it will be in a halfway position. switch off then on. If it keeps tripping you may have to call a repair man.

First it could be leaking from the control knob when it is on . There could be a leak at the base off the burner letting out gas or on the burner line . You need to get back on to your installer or where you purchased the cook top . This basic gas fitting leak detection .

Sure. The wiring harness can be repaired or replaced as well as any damaged components.

Tammy have you checked the circuit breaker at the electrical panel of your home. Do the panel lights come on? If they do and the rest is off then it will need service.