20 Most Recent Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel
needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel
underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils)
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain
If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? The defrost water
overflows into the ref. or freezer
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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In a way, yes. Under the refrigerator is a condenser coil. Now, yes this coil collects dust. The more dust the less air can flow over this coil and that coil has hot gas flowing through it. Now this coil has to be cooled buy a fan. So, if it has too much dust, not enough cool air can pass over the coil, coil gets hotter and hotter. That causes the gas pressure to climb and the compressor will now get too hot. This will cause it to shut off due to a safety feature built into the compressor for just that reason, (to safe the compressor, your fridge, and your home from fire). Then the fridge gets warm inside, food thaws out. Yes, dust can cause this. It is very, very, common during the heat of summer, not so noticeable in the colder months. Hope this helps FixYa up.

while you have asked your question in the Major Appliance (washer,dryer,oven,microwave ect) catagory. I know the drain line for the air conditioner is blocked so the water leaks onto the passanger side floor. Under the hood by the back firewall on passanger side is going to be a tube where the water is supposed to drain. Find that tube and clear it using a wire hanger

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel
needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel
underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils)
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain
If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? The defrost water
overflows into the ref. or freezer
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello Roxanne,

what the problem most likely is a failed part of the defrost system Do you see a bunch of frost built up on the back wall of the freezer? If you do frost build up,i would take off the back wall of the freezer and replace the deforst heater and defrost termination. A hair dryer could be used to melt the built up frost from the coil behind the back wall. Another part that will cause frost build up is the defrost control, that isn't the freezer behind the back wall but instead in the fresh food compartment in the control panel where the thermostat is. I would replace heater/defrost termination first though since they are the most likely to fail parts.

I hope my answer will help you to fix your refrigerator,
Gene

Hello,

The part number is 61006199

it could be ordered on line at

repairclinic.com
appliancepartpros.com
searspartsdirect.com
apdepot.com
appliancepartsdepot.com

or look in your phone book and find a appliance parts retailer in your area

Gene

You have an ice block if the fridge is not cooling and freezer somewhat is. There are a few options you have. First off the bi-metal defrost thermostat has to be replaced. This may be your only problem. The other two things you can check one it your heater. Once you remove the ice to can test the heater for continuity. The other is your defrost timer. Unfortunately you have a computer board that is your timer. You cant test this but you can see if it is working. If the box shuts everything down the fans in freezer and the compressor for 8-30 minutes than kicks everything back on chances are your board is fine. Now to fix your problem.
Option 1 only use if you have a backup fridge to put everything in. Transfer all your food to backup fridge. Unplug fridge for 48-72 hrs with doors cracked open and have towels surrounding the fridge for all the water. Remove back panel in freezer to check for ice block. **Remove back access panel and at the top of coils is your bi-metal. It has two wires going to it. Replace. Now to test the heater you will see the wires to the heater if you have a glass heats there is a pink and blue wire that run down your coils to the heater. Remove the heater and test for continuity. If you have a bar heater you will see two wires running up along the side of coils. You have a bar heater on this icebox. Chances are the heater will still be good. Now once everything is back together than give it a couple hours for temp to get back down before moving your food back.** If you have not heard the box shutdown. Dont put you food back yet give it three days and than check for ice buildup. If I block is forming again replace defrost board if not than it was just your bi-metal.

Option 2: If you dont have a backup fridge. Follow most of steps above once Ice is melted. Get a couple bath towels and a hair dryer. Now remove freezer access panel and with box unplugged start melting all the ice and letting a mojority of the water fall onto the towels. Now once all the ice is melted Take flashlight and look between all the coils. Ice can be hideing and your will have problems again. Now do everything between aristcrats above. Now if you have not hear the box shutdwon your board maybe out. Hopefully its just your bi-metal.

If you have a more question or need further assistance please reply.

Press and hold the LIGHT and LOCK pads on the door until the CHANGE FILTER light blinks (approx. 3 seconds)

Hi,
I'm Leo
This is a common defrost problem, The ice
is not being melted by the defrost system. he fan can't blow into ref.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check evaporator fan in freezer
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If this was helpful please rate me
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL.
I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click for article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

Hi,
This is a common defrost problem, The ice
is not being melted by the defrost system. he fan can't blow into ref.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for icw build up. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check evaporator fan in freezer
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If this was helpful please rate me
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2

Sounds like the auger has broken. Look inside the ice maker if possible to see if the blade has detached from the auger bar. Here is a link to all the parts you may need to make the repair.

Hello, welcome to FixYa. Based on your post, specifically the statment "hollow cubes" prior to complete failure, I'd say you have a faulty water valve/inlet ice valve. The valve for that model actually incorporates 2 coils one for your water & one for ice in a single valve body. It is around $50 at "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple. In the event you are not sure where or how to replace it, it is located at the back near the compressor...just be sure to unplug the fridge from its power source and turn off the water. Let me know how you make out or if anything isn't clear and I'll try to help in any manner I can. I also have some Maytag service manuals at home I can provide if you want to post an email address, though I will not be at my home PC for several hours. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Possible that the CLICK is the relay trying to start the compressor but fails as the load is high or the compressor is faulty. So you need to use a tong tester to check the current flow to the motor and if this shows a higher reading then the compressor is a suspect.
Make sure that the relay is also good as a poor contact can also trip the circuit.
Switch off fridge for few hours and try after cleaning or checking the relay

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

The ADC is located in the beer compartment, up top in the very back of the controls. You'll probably need to partially disassemble that upper control panel to get to it - it will just pop out, no screws or other fittings: it's supposed to come out by inserting your fingers in the grooves in back, gently pulling down and out.

HI,CHEK FOR WATER VALVE ,TUBE LEAK,IF THE FILTER IS LOCATED UNDER THE BOX,REPLACED THE FILTER..

Hello,

A refrigerator not cold enough is a hassle, because you are at risk of spoiling the foods you store in there. Most often, this problem is caused by something easy to fix.
1. Faulty Door Gaskets

The door gaskets in a refrigerator ensure a sealed closure every time you shut the door. Torn or loose gaskets on the door of the refrigerator can result in a leak in the cold air. As a result, the refrigerator is warmer. Repetitive and frequent opening and closing of the refrigerator is also a possible cause, because the warm air from outside replaces the cold air in the refrigerator every time you open it.
2. Dirty Condenser Coils

Dirty condenser coils can result in improper functioning of the refrigerator. These coils are located on the back or the underside of refrigerators. If you find this to be the cause of the problem, unplug the refrigerator before you attempt any cleaning.
3. Frost-free Feature not Working

If the frost-free feature fails, it causes a buildup of frost around the evaporator coils in the freezer. This causes a malfunctioning of the evaporator fan that blows cold air around. The fan can also be damaged if it hits the frost.
4. Faulty or Incorrect Temperature Control

A faulty thermostat can lead to a refrigerator that is not maintaining the desired coldness. Check for this problem and also ensure that the temperature is set to the correct level. Normally, refrigerators are set to a temperature of about 0°C, whereas the freezer sections are around -17°C.
5. Inadequate Air Flow inside Refrigerator

A refrigerator that is loaded with too many food items can fail to maintain an adequate level of coolness across all the items kept in it. The surface items tend to be colder, and the items underneath do not become as cold. A refrigerator that has very few items in it can also fail to function efficiently. Try to ensure that your refrigerator has enough food in it at all times, but is not so loaded that the air flow gets constricted.
6. Vents between Freezer and Refrigerator Clogged

The vents between the freezer and refrigerating section blow cold air from the freezer across to the refrigerator. If these vents are clogged with ice, the air is blocked and the refrigerator does not cool down. If this is the case, you can unplug the refrigerator, wait for the ice to melt and then connect it back to the power supply.
7. Faulty Door Switch

The door switch is found on the bottom of refrigerator doors. It turns off the light in the refrigerator and resumes cooling action when you close the door. If this switch is not functioning properly, the refrigerator will not be cold and it will also be affected by the heat of the interior light.
8. Refrigerant Leak

A refrigerant leak is very unlikely. This problem can cause malfunctioning of your refrigerator. If you suspect this to be the cause, contact a service technician.


Hoping this will help in solving the problem....

Hi

If refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

This is most ofen caused by the inlet water valve bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off. Reach back to the rubber water fill tube and check for ice build up. If the tube is also frozen defrost it with a hand held hair dryer.

The failed inlet water valve can not be repaired. They are molded together and cannot be taken apart for repairs or cleaning. The inlet water valve is item 14 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5171422&diagram_id=28494089#d28494089

The internal water lines for this just push into the body.

I apologize for a late response. I answered another post and when I posted ny comments your post appeared so I answered it.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly