20 Most Recent Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The heater is out... getting parts for icemakers seems to be getting harder and harder... most times the icemaker is just replaced...

The defrost drain hole in the bottom of the freezer has frozen over. Turn off the fridge. Remove the shelves and bins. Remove the rear panel of the freezer. You will see ice on the bottom rear of the freezer. Use a hair dryer to melt the ice,especially in the drain hole once you get through the surface ice. Once the drain hole is clear,pour a cup of hot water through the drain hole followed by 1/4 cup bleach. Re-install your parts and turn the fridge back on.

You have a bad freezer door gasket!! it's letting moisture seep into the freezer and once the moisture hits the extream cold it turns to ice crystals.The freezer is designed to get as cold as 0 degrees and the ice cubes stay in cube form as long as the temp is below 32 degrees so the ice cubes didn't make a difference.You can try and CLEAN the contact surfaces of the gasket and freezer real good this usually works,if the gasket is damaged you will need to replace it.

Normal cycle is 28 - 32 minutes .

Once you've changed the filter in the back of the frig section press and hold the light and lock buttons for a few seconds and the water filter indicator will reset.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).


If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

5psi on the low side, any more and the compressor will choke down. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It’s more likely that your 61005626 Dual Outlet water control valve has become defective on the side that turns the water on for the ice maker. Sometimes the ice maker is the reason for this problem. The ice maker has a temperature thermostat that sometimes goes bad and will not tell the water control valve to come on after dumping the ice and the end of its cycle. The part number for the temperature thermostat is 627985 you can test the ice maker to see if the thermostat is bad by filling it with tap water and allowing the water to freeze. If after freezing the ice maker cycles and dumps the ice but does not refill with water then the water control valve needs to be replaced. Try that test and let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

if this is the imkr problem then jump the brown and red be sure you have something to catch the water from the tube

120v on the harness to the imkr.... if your sure to be cautious unplug the frig and you'll have black, brown, white or blue, and green place a jumper wire between the black and brown plug back in and be sure you have something to catch the water from the fill tube if you get water from the tube you imkr may need replaced or repaired

One you can to try and extend the life of the fridge is to vacuum off the compressor and coils. They can be located either behind the toe grill on the bottom front or through an opening on the back of the fridge. It is natural for a fridge to blow warm air.

I think your voltage is fine I just believe the defrost timer is worn out and not cycling properly resulting in less defrost and higher refrigerator temperatures. Thanks, sea Breeze

The easiest way for you to find out is to bear the expense of buying the start relay/overload assembly mounted to the pins of the compressor, along with the run capacitor. If this starts it and runs with low amps, like 1-3, you're likely safe. Don't buy food for 24 hours. Sometimes the compressor won't seize again for hours afterward if it has been allowed to cool down before replacing relay.

check thermostat setting, check for obstruction in air flow, or defrost problem, check to see if there's excessive ice build up in evap. you should manually unplug ref. for couple of hrs, let it defrost, and restart, check for water on floor when defrosting.

Hi,
Hollow ice cubes are most often cause by insufficient water supply. Icemakers fill for about 7.5 seconds, resulting in about 4.75 oz. (140 cc) of water into the ice cube mold. If there s not enough water pressure available at the fridge, cubes may end up hollow and/or the fill could continue to dribble, eventually causing the fill tube to freeze closed.
pls rate my suggestion.........

Your defrost drain line is clogged and frozen over with ice.
Turn off the fridge. Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Take a hair dryer and thaw the drain hole at the back bottom section of the freezer. After you defrost the drain line pour 1/4 cup bleach into the drain hole.

I believe your ice maker has an electronic control module located in the front and just behind the front cover. Below is a view and number one in the picture is that module. Unplug refrigerator and carefully remove the ice maker and its front cover to expose the module. If corrosion or signs of burn marks the complete new replacement would. By chance if yours has a set screw you may be able to adjust the screw to shorten the time the water flows into ice maker. This is the part you will need to replace if the module is defective. Part number D7824706Q You also can unplug the ice maker dual water control valve on back and near floor on back of your refrigerator. The water control valve may be defective and letting water to continue to flow to the ice maker while off. If you need to contact me my email is [email protected]

You also can click on the links below and go to the search feature or part number and enter the part number and click find it. If you have any questions I am here or you can email me, Thanks Sea Breeze

PART NUMBER AND MODEL SEARCH FEATURE

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/

This is a pretty common problem. Sometimes the defrost cycle is not long enough because the freezer setting were too low. But most times this begins slowly until the drain finally closes and then the water has no where to go but the inside of freezer or refrigerator. I have more help topics to prevent a constantly happening over and over again. But you may have a blockage down-line from the freezer. So until you can melt the ice and pour a warm solution of water and clorox in the drain and it end up in the pan below the refrigerator I will hold off on that until I hear back from you, Thanks, Sea Breeze

sounds like theres a short in the fridge itself

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck!