20 Most Recent Maytag MSD2655HES Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Wherever your filter is located the actual piece that you plug the filter into is either clogged or restricted it and it's called the filter head and that is what needs to be replaced. Before attempting to replace the filter head try removing your filter and see if the hammering and grinding sound goes away. If the noise goes away then you simply just need a new filter.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

-===

This the most frequent problem with water despencer. The dual solenoid valve has gather dirt and scale from the water and is blocking it fromclosing completly thus the driping.
The solution is to replace the dual solenoid valve which is located in back bottom part in the compressor compartment. At the parts diagram the dual solenoid valve is part no 14.
We have also here a video demostrating how to replace the dual solenoid valve. It maybe a litle different from your model but is very similar and it will help you a lot.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

try pushing the lite and lock buttons together for 5 seconds

Lets take it one step at a time, Is the compressor running?

Hopefully you did make sure it is plugged in all the way or that a breaker or fuse has not blown. Sometimes we don't remember or think to check the obvious

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

The compressor

The Thermostat

The overload, relay, or capacitor

The defrost timer

The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater

to check these components .... please refer to my solution in the below link....

http://www.fixya.com/support/t4189238-defroster_not_working_checked_defrost

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

If I've been of Help to you... kindly take a moment to rate this solution.

Well, it won't make ice if the freezer isn't cold enough to freeze ice.

Refrigerator not operating


Why is my refrigerator not working at all?
If the refrigerator is getting power, the refrigerator compartment light should come on when the door is open.
If the refrigerator compartment light does not come on, check the following.

• Make sure the refrigerator is plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
• Check the outlet. Does anything work using that outlet?
• Check that the circuit breaker is not tripped.
• Interior lights on some models will turn off if the door is left open for more than 10 minutes. Close and re-open the door to make sure the light comes back on.

If the refrigerator compartment light does come on, but the refrigerator is not cooling, make sure the Cooling control is turned on.
If the refrigerator is equipped with a Cooling On/Off feature, there will be a Cooling On/Off button located on the control panel at the top of the refrigerator compartment or the feature can be turned on using the Lock and Fast Ice/Cool buttons on the dispenser panel on the freezer door.
Cooling On/Off button on control panel in refrigerator compartment:
Cooling On/Off feature on dispenser panel on freezer door:
If Cooling is off, press and hold the "On/Off" button on the controls in the refrigerator compartment for 3 seconds or press and hold the Lock and Fast Ice/Cool buttons on the dispenser panel at the same time for 3 seconds.
See also: Refrigerator or freezer not cool enough - Side by side refrigerator
See also: Refrigerator or freezer not cool enough - Top-freezer refrigerator
Once the refrigerator is turned on, allow 24 hours for the temperature of the refrigerator and contents to completely cool.

Have you properly bled the air from the lines after the filter change?
Have you removed the saddle valve to be sure there is not sediment blocking the pinhole?
This is a flow, not a pressure problem.

Thanks

Yeah I took mine apart and should have taken a picture of it before I did so. (Not too smart if I do say so.)
I'll put the steps here to assist, but here's a link to a small picture of it.
COMPLETE ASSEMBLY
The parts SHOULD go together in this order.
1. Start with wavy shaft standing on the plastic sleeve.
2. Slide the plate on the shaft.
3. Put the wheel on the plate so that it locks in place.
4. Put one of the rotating blades on the shaft so that it will cut in a clockwise direction. (as it is in the pic) Note that the rotating blades are offset slightly. I have no idea which order they go. Maybe first cut on the inside last cut on the outside. Dunno'.
5. Place one of the large nylon stepped washer with the 2 levels on the shaft with the smaller end facing up. (like the pic)
6. Remove the pin from the stationary blade holder as you will need one of those blades next. Remember how it was assembled or take a picture. :)
7. Place the stationary blade on the nylon spacer so that it will cut in a counter clockwise direction. (opposite to the direction of the pic above and toward the blade you already installed.)
8. Put a wavy washer on next.
9. Then put the angled plate thingy (I have nothing else to call it. It's called a damper in the link.) Place it on so that the edge is downward and the flat side it facing up. You want to place it like the picture on the left.
10. Another wavy washer.
11. Another one of the rotating blades in the same direction as the last one.
12. Place the other large nylon stepped washer on the shaft with the small end facing up like the last one.
13. Put the last stationary blade on in the same direction as the first one.
14. Another wavy washer.
15. Put the last angled plate thingy on in the same direction as the first one.
16. Another wavy washer.
17. The last rotating blade... Again in the same direction as the last 2.
18. Put the last washer with only one step on the shaft. (Looks like a top hat.)
19. FINALLY, put the lock washer on before you have a chance to knock it over and lose all the pieces :P
20. Put the blade anchor on the stationary blades in the same direction that you took it off. The pointier edge should be facing counter clockwise. You should only be able to slide the pin in place from the top. http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-msd2351hew-%3d%3di375196&PartID=375196

21. I really hope that this helps someone. This thing is DAMN tricky to put back together. Make sure that the thing rotates easily by hand before sliding it back into your freezer. I expect that if something isn't quite right the motor will just bend the bar or other pieces. After all, it does crush ice!!!

Good luck.

Maggmah

unplug the machine and let it completely defrost with the doors open overnight. then try it. if it still does not get cold then you know it is a more serious problem, like a compressor $300+
if it works for a couple days then freezes up again then you know it is a defrost problem, less serious problem <$100

To connect the water supply using a plastic hose kit to the MBB1954G UNIT, you can follow these steps: Turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Remove the old hose from the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator. Attach the new plastic hose to the water supply valve and the back of the refrigerator. Make sure the hose is not kinked or twisted. Tighten the fittings with an adjustable wrench. Turn on the water supply valve and check for leaks. Here is a video tutorial that demonstrates how to install a water line to an ice maker or refrigerator using a 5 foot hose with 1/4 inch compression fittings. INSTALLING ICE MAKER / REFRIGERATOR WATER LINE - using 1/4" compression hose (youtube.com)

you can add water filter. It is installed on supply line. go to Home Depot and pick up a refrigerator water filter kit with accessories.

inspect the ice make to check for any sign of visible damage or misalignment, .and unplug the fridge and plug it again

Matthew...you sure you have the Model# right? Cuz Google comes up with Zip..Zilch with that #.? :)

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.

The Maytag Model MSD2651KES is a side-by-side refrigerator. It does not have a traditional drip pan underneath like some other refrigerator models. Instead, it uses a drain system to collect and channel condensation and defrost water. The condensation and defrost water from the freezer section of the refrigerator typically flow down through a drain hole and into a drain pan or trough located at the bottom of the refrigerator. This drain pan is usually not accessible from the outside and does not require regular maintenance or emptying. If you are experiencing any issues with water leakage or pooling around your Maytag refrigerator, it is recommended to check the drain system for any blockages or clogs. Ensure that the drain hole is clear and that the water can flow freely through the system. If you suspect a problem with the drain system, it is advisable to consult the refrigerator's user manual or contact Maytag customer support for specific guidance on troubleshooting and resolving the issue.