20 Most Recent LG LWHD1800R Wall/Window Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

You have to try resetting the system. First turn the breaker off for the condenser and wait about 20 seconds. After you turn it back on the system should reset.Air Conditioning Coral Springs

You have to try resetting the system. First turn the breaker off for the condenser and wait about 20 seconds. After you turn it back on the system should reset. Air Conditioner Fort Lauderdale

When you mansion water in the pan, do you mean the indoor coil pan or the outdoor catch "pan"? I've seen some models have a drain plug that's on the bottom of the outdoor panel or underneath. And that plug should remain installed. It uses that water to cool the copper freon tube that curves along the bottom of the outdoor section. With plug removed it can overheat. Basically it does not drain onto the ground outside, it retains its water. And the air entering side of outdoor coil is clean? May sound like repetition(forgive me). The side you see clearly is the air leaving side. The dual shaft motor has a run capacitor that may be weakening. And the outdoor air that passes thru the outdoor coil may be recirculating out then directly back in to the unit causing it to overheat. Anything blocking airflow outside? 10 mins of runtime then shouting down tells me its overheating. It may even be the electrical circuit. Loose connections can cause high amperage, low voltage issue and cause the ac load to over amp. Over amp=over heat. Hope this helps!

Does it give you a code? Try turning only one at a time to see if that works. I would like to help you but need more information.

some uneit have a fuse in the electronic board, i would put a new electric plug first is it 220v or 110v go for the plug first

Thaw it out and clean the filter and coil if you can and if it still freezes up it is low on refrigerant. If thats the case then replace the whole unit, you can't service the refrigerant circuit on windows units anymore.

Thanks for your question!
I'm sorry that you haven't received an answer yet.
The response rate on FixYa FREE questions is usually over 80%, but sometimes questions go un-answered when:
1. the question is unclear, incomplete, or poorly worded...
2. the question is mis-categorized - so the correct experts aren't viewing it...
3. the question requires an answer for something that cannot be explained online adequately...
4. specific training, tools, or equipment are required to avoid injury or death...
5. the Experts that are online simply don't have the resources to answer your question fully...
Please feel free to re-work your question if you feel one of these may be the reason.
Of course you are not required - but converting your question to a PAID one usually increases the reply rate as well.
Normal rates for FixYa are...
$ 9.99 answer for one question.
$12.99 Live Real-Time online chat or premium e-mail support.
$29.99 Live Real Time phone support
Sometimes FixYa will run specials for unlimited questions via monthly subscription or reduced rates for limited periods.

Consider the savings that can be had when an informed Expert can save you a $100 service call, or a $350 trip to the car dealership.
Your problem solved - guaranteed! Or your money back!!
If you don't want to pay - feel free to re-submit your question so it returns back to the top of the work queue if you still need help.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question

Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly. As you know there is a 3 minute time delay after you first apply power for the compressor to start. Usually the capacitor has 2 outputs, one for the fan and one for the compressor. Most of the time when an air conditioning capacitor fails only part of it fails unless it overheats and shorts.

I have a few questions:
1. Does the fan motor run Y? / N?
2. Does the compressor attempt to start as noticed by a 30 to 40 second dimming of the lights and then they brighten?
3. Neither the fan nor the compressor run?

I note you stated you have a power LED light. When you have a power light and the unit does not start usually the problem is the capacitor. However..... on the compressor where the power wires mate usually 3 each one of them can have a burned terminal. This is also a common failure.

Water intrusion to the touch pad due to icing or condensation can also cause the symptom you described.

Water intrusion on the main board is notorious for buring one of the 3 main board transformer coils while leaving the other 2 intact.
Most PCB transfromers have input power on terminal 1 and 4 with output power across terminal 5 and 6 (15VAC) also terminals 7 and 8 (3 - 15 VAC depending on transformer installed). All voltages must be present for the remote to work. The PCB transformer pin markings can either be on the main board itself or on the top of the side of the transformer just above the metal armature.

More on the main board... look closely for any green "ick" on the board around IC chips. Clean it as best you can with a DRY Q-tip and a kleenex. If it is really really bad use a pencil eraser but gently so as to not tear the electrical runs on the board.

Also look at the capacitors on the main board for any signs of swelling or bulging. (not a good thing)

Last thing that you should probably do FIRST. Go to the main CB panel and physically push the AC power CB to OFF then back to on. (This resets BOTH breakers) Check for voltage at the outlet. I am assuming this is a 220VAC Air-Conditioner. One of the breakers can trip and you can experience the symptom your describing. If it only has 115VAC power vs 230 V power it will NOT start.

That is about if for the moment. If you need more help or none of the above seems to be causing your problem just respond here and I will get back to you usually within 8 hours most of the time much less.

Worst case if you discover the main board or touch pad is suffering from moisture intrusion you can dry it out carefully with a hair dryer but DO NOT let it get HOT. I have found that when drying touch pads I sometimes have to place them either in front of a fan or in a drying box on a stand off rack and a low wattage light bulb (25W) as a heat source off to the side over night.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Hi,
There can be a couple of things that could be happening...
The first and easiest thing is to check the air filter. Make sure that it is clean... clean it or replace it. Next check the air vents to make sure that they are open and giving you good air flow...
Also check to make sure that you are not icing up on the indoor coil... ice will tell you that you are low on refrigerant. You also could be low and not be icing over, but you would need to have gauges on the unit to check that.
Finally check and clean the outdoor coil...this also can give you problems if the heat is not being removed from the outdoor unit efficiently...
You may also have a unit that is sized in such a way that it hits the balance point at about 85...that means that your heat gain is equal to the capacity of the unit...I often try to size them for about that here in Northern PA. because wqhen seldom get hotter then that and the unit then is much more effective at removeing humidity at lower temperatures...

You can also check out the tips that I have wrote about Air conditioning trouble shooting and maintenance...

Here is one about cleaning the condenser coil and at the bottom of that one are links to others..

Condenser Coil Cleaning Condenser Coil Cleaner

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3850183-condenser_coil_cleaning_condenser_coil

heatman101

Yes.

You want to install the unit where the back (condenser) coils 'are' exposed to the outside.

i have to, that problem many of time ,you are at a point to where you have to get the build up out of the system now because it wasnt draining, pour bleach in the system bottom base,an if you are firmiliar with drillin in some areas where it wouldnt harm any parts do so. it will help slow down the build up ,but do it towards the back of the unit,an also look for any additional drain plugs that could be undetected ,,hope i helped you out

What brand of A/C is it? Are you looking for the thermostat wiring? Different Brands use different wiring, but the usual is as follows:
R terminal at furnace is 24 volt Hot
W is the control for the heating cycle
G is used to start the furnace blower
Y is used to start the outdoor A/C
B or X depending on Brand is the 24 volt common

Yellow and B or blue is the other wire that goes to the outdoor unit
If you want more info, I need Brand, and type of unit, gas furnace and A/C, electric furnace and A/C, or is it a heat pump for the outdoor unit?
Hope this helps./
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

Buy a NEMA 15-R recaptacle at an electrical supply house.