Nikon D200 Digital Camera with 18-200mm Lens - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I had a problem with pictures not so clear, because I was in "portrait" under the custom settings menu, and it caused the resolution to be low/medium

A little more detail would be helpful in diagnosing your problem. Are the lines vertical or horizontal? Do they run the length or width of the screen or just a portion?
If by "control screen" you refer to the LCD monitor on the back, then it sounds as if it may be failing and needs replacement. Alternatively you can just live with it unless it gets worse (or you're under warranty).

Sigma lenses sometimes need re-chipping for full compatability with certain Nikon camera. They are usually quite good about doing this gratis.
Try the Sigma on another body at the camera shop or at home (preferably and older AF film camera). If it works then its likely just a chip compatibility issue.

If it's any consolation, I have the same setup and the same problem. I'm now at the point where I'm probably going to have to return the lens as faulty, but there are a few things it could be on yours which you might want to check.

Have you got the D200 set to auto-focus? The selector (on the front of the camera, on the lower left) should be in the S position (as opposed to C or M).

Have you got the lens set to auto-focus? It should be in the M/A position, rather than M.

Have you tried cleaning the contacts? Pop the lens off and give the contacts a clean with the appropriate equipment. Dust on the contacts could be causing a problem.

Failing that, have you tried turning the camera on and off a few times?

I've obviously tried all the above on mine, and now suspect I've got a faulty lens that needs fixing ... which really sucks! Good luck with it, let me know if you get it working.

Dan

With your D200, you can use the kelvin temperature mode instead the other. As I work in TV where we do the white balance very often, I can guess what's the Kelvin temperature when I shoot. I only use Kelvin now on the D200 and it's more reliable!

I assume by "microdrive" you mean the compact flash card - right? Not all compact flash cards will word with the D200 - what is the brand of each of the flash cards you have (and are they all the same-purchased at the same time)?

My first question would be what lens are you using - some lenses have auto stability features - please post lens make, type, model number and when you purchased it.

Sure sounds like it could be a firmware bug - I suggest you upgrade to firmware version v 2.0.0 (it looks complex but is really quite simple - just need to do upgrade twice - once for A and once for B.

If this does not fix it I would suggest repair - the CMOS (which stores the values when the camera is shut off) may be defective - it must be fixed by Nikon Service.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with your camera. You simply need to learn about the basics. Read on the web about exposure, shutter speed, aperture, and how they affect each other. If your shots are blurry, the reason is that the shutter speed was too low.

How can you know when the shutter speed is too low?

- Use a tripod (the VR of the lens must be off in this case)
- Or, for hand-held shots, use shutter priority mode and set a speed as fast as the focal length of the lens. - i.e. for focal length of 100mm, a handheld shot must be taken at 1/100 sec or faster. Of course, the light might not be available for such a faster speed. The VR also gives you some latitude, but it's not panacea.

Additionally, DSLR cameras (esp. if you shoot RAW) produce images that are less saturated and contrasty compared to the blown out photos produced by point and shoot cameras.

You have a remarkable camera, just take your time and learn the basics of photography.

If your image sequence numbers, before you started shooting, and are not in reset mode, you could identify that someone has been taking picture before.

please do not take that risk take it to near Nikon Dealer to do it. it is an expensive body I have see many people ruined their cameras.
if you really want to take that risk do not use power blower use manual blower.

Yes, please turn off the camera when changing lens, make sure on the lens is on its full aperture if you are doing auto. if doest not work to make is test turn the camera on the manual mode and the lens too.
If your lens is new there should not be any problem, if you bought the lens used make sure all the points are clear not rusted. some time when lens fall of it breaks its points inside.

Are you referring to a lens that has the Vibration Reduction? These are the settings:

• Normal - The image stabilization is on, but is for when you just hold the camera "still" by hand or are using a uni-pod.
• Active - The image stabilization is REALLY on, it's for when you have a shaky hand, like in a car or boat, or no uni-pod and you need extra sensitivity to control shake.

I have the 70-200mm VS f2.8. Boy, it's great.

Hope this helps, if it does, please set to FixYa!

What's the question?

Hello jenmardi,

First, the fstop and shutter speed question ... For a lens of 70 mm I would use the manual with shutter speed at least 1/250 or 1/500, then the fstop I would set at 2.8 or just under this, no more than 4. You need as much light as possible, but not to drown it. The shutter speed needs to stay low (or other words, fast) to not get blur. For example, for a 70 mm focal length, you have to double it to > 1/140 (70*2) or if it's 100 mm then > 1/200 (100*2). This is if you just stand still or using a tripod. If you're hand holding, you have to go higher, like 70mm would be 1/200 or higher and 100 mm would be > 1/300.

This is 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 etc or more than half (or double, however you want to look at it) of your lens focal length. The fstop can be pulled down 2.8, 3, 4, 5 etc the effect of lowering this is the depth of focus will change. But that's ok.

Next question, red or yellow in it. Make sure you have the disc in the direct view of the lights you're shooting under when you take the measurement. Make sure the custom WB is being used (of course) and that you are getting the Good reply from the camera once you click the shutter. For whatever is yellow or red you need to make sure you do not mix lighting. All lighting needs to be at the same Kelvin rating or the balance won't match between subjects/objects.

Read up on what the 500wt Kelvin conversion is and make sure you compensate the 250 wt Kelvin lights with the appropriate color filtration to make the 500wt and 250 wt Kelvin conversion come out to be the same. The sun is also a different kelvin than these, so you even have to compensate for it too, if it's part of the equation.

Happy snapping. You can visit my site to see some of the results I get with high speed, low lite concerts.

Did you try another memory card? It sounds like the memory card is corrupted or has developed bad sectors..Connect it to the comp->right-click and format the card->take a sample snap and try transferring it..If it stil doesn't work you may hav to get a new memory card..
Let me lnow what happened so that we can see what else can be done without getting a new card..
Good Luck!

Do you mean that you turned off auto focus on the shutter button? The manual will tell you where to find the appropriate custom setting. It's Menu > custom setting menu > a Autofocus > a6 AF activation.

Hope this helps.

You won't be able to use older TTL flashguns with the D200. Since the D70, all nikon cameras have used "iTTL", and earlier DSLRs (eg D100) have used "D-TTL". Neither of these are compatible with the older TTL system used on film cameras. The newer SB-400/600/800 flashguns are all ok, and Sigma and Metz both produce iTTL compatible flashguns. The new flashguns will work on old cameras but not vice versa.

I know this is annoying, but there were good technical reasons why Nikon changed the TTL standards.

If the 636 has an A mode (non TTL) this should work ok, otherwise it will only work in manual (if it has a manual mode).

You should set the white balance to an appropriate setting. For outdoors, or indoors with flash, auto +-0 should be adequate. For indoor work without flash, try the incandescent (light bulb symbol) or fluorescent (strip light symbol) if you don't like the results from auto.

You can only use the viewfinder. If you want to use the LCD, you need to buy an SLR with "live view." However, you'll soon get used to using the viewfinder, it's the best way to shoot unless you're holding the camera somewhere you can't get your eye to the viewfinder.